04-23-2013, 05:08 PM
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#61
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodeoGeorge
I just painted set #1. Hate those drying times. LOL
Going to completely install the first set, and see what I learn in the process.
I am changing out the upper mounting bolt to one with a shank to reduce the threads wearing on the pivoting mount.
RodeoGeorge
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Don't think the threads would wear the mount, but I do understand the concern. Thought of using longer bolts, but didn't want to have to cut all the bolts off to get rid of the extra threads.
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04-23-2013, 05:18 PM
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#62
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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An appropriate sized shank bolt is a good idea tho !
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04-23-2013, 05:23 PM
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#63
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
An appropriate sized shank bolt is a good idea tho !
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Hard to find, if at all, in stainless and wouldn't want to use anything but stainless..
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04-23-2013, 05:26 PM
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#64
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Hard to find, if at all, in stainless and wouldn't want to use anything but stainless..
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Boat loads at ace hardware, as I got some today phor a project and in ss !
And they were Allen head to. 
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04-23-2013, 05:34 PM
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#65
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Denver, CO
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,102
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I think you should still make the top brackets... How hard could that be. The rest do the pieces can be had commercially, like I did. The top brackets are the key... AND THEY LOOK COOL.
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2017 Fuse 23T
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04-24-2013, 05:37 AM
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#66
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Hard to find, if at all, in stainless and wouldn't want to use anything but stainless..
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Do a search and Find your local "Fastenal Company"... If its a stainless shoulder bolt your looking for... Or anything else that's a fastener, if its made, they have it.
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2015 Coachmen Apex 288BHS
2014 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L
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04-24-2013, 06:26 AM
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#67
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodeoGeorge
I just painted set #1. Hate those drying times. LOL
Going to completely install the first set, and see what I learn in the process.
I am changing out the upper mounting bolt to one with a shank to reduce the threads wearing on the pivoting mount.
RodeoGeorge
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Bronze shoulder bushings would also reduce the wear on the shanks. These are awning tie down poles and as designed will outlast the awning and probably the trailer. Whomever wants to re-design and manufacture them, have fun!
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04-24-2013, 06:28 AM
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#68
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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04-24-2013, 06:31 AM
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#69
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garbonz
I think you should still make the top brackets... How hard could that be. The rest do the pieces can be had commercially, like I did. The top brackets are the key... AND THEY LOOK COOL.
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That's the most labor intensive task in the whole project. Layout, drill, cut out, file, form and bead blast. If I had a powered hyd. press, cutout dies, etc. it would be easy, but I only have a small garage with hand tools, not a complete machine shop with manufacturing equipment.
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04-24-2013, 06:35 AM
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#70
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769
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Like it Herk! Helps if you just look where you're going too! 
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04-24-2013, 09:14 AM
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#71
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769
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Hmm. Now you have me thinking. For my kayaks, I use retro-reflective ropes. They really pop when a light is shined on them. (Assuming lights are used, of course.)
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Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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04-24-2013, 11:38 AM
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#72
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Denver, CO
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
That's the most labor intensive task in the whole project. Layout, drill, cut out, file, form and bead blast. If I had a powered hyd. press, cutout dies, etc. it would be easy, but I only have a small garage with hand tools, not a complete machine shop with manufacturing equipment.
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Oh darn, maybe thats why they look so cool.
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2017 Fuse 23T
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04-24-2013, 11:46 AM
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#73
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garbonz
Oh darn, maybe thats why they look so cool.
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Original one I fabricated was a pc of 1" wide alum with the ears tig welded on. Then made a flat layout and hand formed the 2 ears in a vice and finally built the crude form die & punch to form the 2 ears and the angle for the ratchet straps in my hyd. arbor press.
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04-24-2013, 11:57 AM
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#74
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Still time to make the UPS pickup.
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04-24-2013, 12:09 PM
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#75
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Denver, CO
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Original one I fabricated was a pc of 1" wide alum with the ears tig welded on. The made a flat layout and hand formed the 2 ears in a vice and finally built the crude form die & punch to form the 2 ears and the angle for the ratchet straps in my hyd. arbor press.
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Yes they are AWESOME brackets. I am SO glad I got them from you before you quit doing them. It's also a great design and overall super idea.
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2017 Fuse 23T
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04-24-2013, 01:44 PM
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#76
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Hey btw OC I got the upper brackets in my little care package way back when, but no lowers to store.
I guess I didn't make enough sales 
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04-24-2013, 01:51 PM
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#77
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
Hey btw OC I got the upper brackets in my little care package way back when, but no lowers to store.
I guess I didn't make enough sales |
Sorry about that, figured you'd use duct tape til you got a pc of 1" alum strap to make them out of. OH, BTW, you DO have to have poles MOUNTED before you need the stow brackets just in case you forgot.
p.s. Use duct tape, I'll bring a set to Goshen for you.
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04-24-2013, 01:53 PM
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#78
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Sorry about that, figured you'd use duct tape til you got a pc of 1" alum strap to make them out of. OH, BTW, you DO have to have poles MOUNTED before you need the stow brackets just in case you forgot. |
Worked on it yesterday.
I might have something concrete by August 3rd but don't count on it.
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04-24-2013, 01:56 PM
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#79
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
Worked on it yesterday.
I might have something concrete by August 3rd but don't count on it.
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Kinda heavy if you're using concrete. I'd suggest a pc of re-rod in the center and definitely an extra bolt in the attaching bracket.
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04-24-2013, 05:40 PM
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#80
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Owner/Operator
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chino Valley, AZ
Posts: 671
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Here's a tip I learned after the first support.
If you're going to drill the second hole for the upper mounting bracket, install the bracket and the support, center the lower portion of the support on the awning arm, mark the location for the second hole, and then drill it.
On the first one I eyeballed whether the upper bracket was "straight", and I was off slightly. But slightly at the top can become quite a bit at the bottom. LOL
RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
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