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Old 10-10-2013, 05:22 PM   #1
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 2
2009 Surveyor with water damage to floor

I have a 2009 Surveyor model 304 with a laminated floor. My front storage compartment has water damage extending to beside the queen bed. About 1 sq. ft of rotten wood and about 6 square ft. of water soaked wood and vinyl flooring which is discolored with mold or mildew. The damp floor extends up to the wall under the bed, haven't uncovered beside the bed to see how far the water traveled to the interior floor. I have 3 questions.
1. Can I just dry it out and overlay new wood over the rotten wood?
2. Will the water soak thur the strofoam and rot the bottom layer of wood?
3. What method is the best to repair the damage and make sure all mold is removed?

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Old 10-15-2013, 02:46 PM   #2
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: KC area
Posts: 1,400
1 - if you do, any mold/mildew/rot will still be there and will eventually grow.
2 - generally the foam will not form a water barrier - it is closed cell foam but may be porous enough to allow some (not much) moisture through.
3 - remove all affected wood and replace with new.


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Old 11-26-2013, 12:21 PM   #3
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 81
Follow up to wood floor problem

I just had a similar repair issue with my 2005 FR Wildwood, in the corner of the slideout where the bench seat is installed. We discovered that the corner of the floor and the carpet was wet. We immediately put our dehumidifier to work, set at "constant" to remove the water from the area, which took about a week.

The problem turned out to be a small piece of untreated 3/8" plywood in the corner of the rollout, factory installed by Forest River. It is exposed to rainwater and the elements, and due to a lot of rain this season, this wood soaked up water like a sponge, then wicked it into the floor of the slideout below the bench.

We were glad at least that it was not a roof leak.

Repairing this was not easy. I will describe that in another posting, but it took about 6 hours to complete and two trips to the hardware store, after it was all dried out. This kind of task is best done by a trim carpenter or auto body repairman, as skills in both areas come in handy. Not for the clumsy or unskilled, as it required almost every tool I owned to get it done right. It's all done now, and the repair is better than the original factory installation. (We swear our trailer was built on a Friday afternoon, if you know what i mean.) Discouraged that F.R. uses untreated plywood painted black exposed when the slideout is extended to rot in the Florida rain, and couples that with screws that rust to boot. Oh well.

See also new post in a few minutes.
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:00 AM   #4
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 342
not fun

My first camper, I bought very cheap knowing it needed a floor replaced under the side compartment and bed. There really could not have been a better place for this type of problem in the Ď93 Terry. I pulled the bed and frame, pulled the frame from the storage compartment and had all the room I needed. I replaced further back than I needed to so I could tie the new floor to the camperís framing. There was small water damage to the bottom edge of the camperís wall and I slathered it with LiquidNails and it seemed to become nicely ridged. I was able to save the carpet, you could never tell when it was done and the floor was still solid when I sold the camper 5 years later.
Before you even start, find the leak and fix that or youíll be doing it again. Finding the leak can be trickier than fixing the damage.
It is possible to do yourself if youíre good with tools and its located in an area you can get into
Good luck
2011 Wildwood T26BHXL
2004 Yukon XL Denali
43yrs of camping; one lucky guy
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surveyor, water

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