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Old 06-17-2010, 08:47 PM   #21
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SO here is my question...even though the male connector from the trailer LOOKS like a 220 VAC plug, it is actually a 110VAC circuit, correct?

Thinking of putting in a 30Amp circuit for my TT, as I only have about a 6In run from the main breaker panel.
If your TT power cable plugs into an outlet exactly like this:


It is requires a 30 amp, 110 volt service.

If it looks exactly like this:


Your camper requires 50 amps at 220 volts.
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Old 06-17-2010, 08:57 PM   #22
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Alrighty then...30 Amp 110V it is..Thanks!
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Old 06-18-2010, 07:53 AM   #23
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Wow - You Rock Jim

Never in a million years would I have imagined someone would use 14 guage wire on a long run like that and THEN back up by a 30 amp breaker!

Fire at the pavilion is the least of your worry. If that circuit was overloaded over a long period of time, the eventual fire would start in the distribution panel IN THE HOUSE. The heat generated due to the undersize wire would be highest in the hot wire from the breaker to the first box clamp.

You should have an electrician check that entire circuit. If they did "have that crock pot party," that existing wire most likely took some damage. Check and smell for burn insulation in the panel. If so that buried wire to the pavillion may need to be replaced.
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:29 AM   #24
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I think I might just replace it anyway. I had already bought the wire once (was going to do something a little different). I have nothing but time and can work as slow or fast as I want. Just digging up and recovering that length in this heat and humidity is something I don't look forward to. But in the end, I know it will be right.

And so you know, there is no smell of anything burned, no indication of anything ever going beyond capacity. I honestly do not know why he put that many outlets around this pavillion. But like I said, I want to get it done right, and so I will invest in the right wire (10/2) and just dig in and git 'er done!
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:46 AM   #25
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My guess

Based on the house I bought. It was built in the 1953 and there had to be "no codes" outside of city limits then.

The previous owner had an above ground swimming pool out in the back yard (common back then). He had a 12 guage wire run out there to power the pump.

The pool was gone but the "pool deck" with the outlet was still there. He had a 20 amp breaker in the box connected to a clock timer but it was "off." (I am still using the old timer to power my security lights)

I ripped it all out. The wire was only 6 inches deep and took only a couple of hours to dig out.

Sounds like a previous owner built a pavillion and used the pool wire to power it.
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Old 06-18-2010, 11:02 AM   #26
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Ed,

If I was facing the same task, I would be tempted to abandon the original wire, rent a trencher to dig the trench, and then lay down 1 inch Schd-40 PVC conduit. You can then pull whatever wire you need, and even replace or expand it in the future. At a minimum, no one will ever have to dig that trench again.

Installing underground UM-B is less expensive than my option, but only by about 20-30 cents a foot.

Just a suggestion.
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Old 06-18-2010, 12:25 PM   #27
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Here is my two cents, to play it safe in the two homes I have owned I used a licensed electrician to put my rv plugs in, I was told if I did it myself and had a short and a fire occurred the insurance company may not want to cover the loss, but then I am not an insurance expert or an electrician
Insurance will always cover a loss, minus the deductible.
Thatís why you get insurance to protect yourself & others from stupidity & other natural disasters.

Where you might run into a problem is with your city/township for not following code & not getting the proper permit.
Iíve lived in three different houses in PA & each township had a permit process.
My current township requires a permit for any electrical work totaling more than $50 in material.
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Old 06-19-2010, 07:43 AM   #28
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Smile Which township?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3 Happy Campers View Post
Insurance will always cover a loss, minus the deductible.
Thatís why you get insurance to protect yourself & others from stupidity & other natural disasters.

Where you might run into a problem is with your city/township for not following code & not getting the proper permit.
Iíve lived in three different houses in PA & each township had a permit process.
My current township requires a permit for any electrical work totaling more than $50 in material.
We are in Lower Bucks.
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Old 06-21-2010, 12:33 PM   #29
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Insurance will always cover a loss, minus the deductible.
That’s why you get insurance to protect yourself & others from stupidity & other natural disasters.

Where you might run into a problem is with your city/township for not following code & not getting the proper permit.
I’ve lived in three different houses in PA & each township had a permit process.
My current township requires a permit for any electrical work totaling more than $50 in material.

We are in Lower Bucks.
Upper Bucks here. Near Nockamixon.

My set up, 30'x30' pole barn with 100amp sub panel from the house.
30 amp breaker on the sub panel, 20' of 10 gauge wire & a 30 amp pedestal box from Home Depot.
The kind you see @ most CGs.
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Old 06-22-2010, 08:51 AM   #30
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Having the breaker in the box is handy.

My breaker is in the sub panel in the garage and walking in and out to hook up is a pain. Its not far, but it is not as convenient as your setup.
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