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Old 05-01-2019, 10:00 PM   #1
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3500 lb Lippert axle nut socket size

Anyone know what socket size to use on a 3500 lb Lippert axle for the axle castle nut?
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Old 05-01-2019, 10:40 PM   #2
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Never used anything but slip joint pliers.

https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-4.../dp/B00002N5JF
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Old 05-01-2019, 11:16 PM   #3
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Slip joint pliers or crescent wrench for me also. It's LCI part number 122081 if you bugger it up, or look for a 1"x14tpi hex castle nut.

But based on the nut being 1"x14, the socket should be a 1 1/2".
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Old 05-02-2019, 06:42 AM   #4
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Slip joint pliers are all you need, not a lot of torque required. What are you trying to do sir? I'm asking because I've seen guys try to remove this castle nut with the cotter pin still inserted. They got it off but what a mess.
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Old 05-02-2019, 07:25 AM   #5
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Cotter pin will be removed! LOL! I am getting ready to do a bearing repack by hand. I am over paranoid about torque values and would like to tighten to the 50 lb-ft spec using a torque wrench.
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Old 05-02-2019, 07:53 AM   #6
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Some axle manufacturers say to torque to 50 FT lbs and then back off without turning wheel to set the bearing torque. The same instructions said use a 12" wrench or ratchet with moderate human pressure and that was approximately 50#.... I think I would stay with the "old school" way or use a torque wrench as most people won't know what 50# feels like.
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Old 05-02-2019, 07:55 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybigrigger View Post
Cotter pin will be removed! LOL! I am getting ready to do a bearing repack by hand. I am over paranoid about torque values and would like to tighten to the 50 lb-ft spec using a torque wrench.
Lol... just what I posted. Get you a wrench and do it the right way. You da man!
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Old 05-02-2019, 06:49 PM   #8
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Also while on subject, what size cotter pin are you all using? 1/8 X 1-3/4?
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Old 05-02-2019, 07:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannacamp View Post
Some axle manufacturers say to torque to 50 FT lbs and then back off without turning wheel to set the bearing torque. The same instructions said use a 12" wrench or ratchet with moderate human pressure and that was approximately 50#.... I think I would stay with the "old school" way or use a torque wrench as most people won't know what 50# feels like.
Just donít forget to do the second part...back the bug off and just make finger tight.
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:25 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybigrigger View Post
Also while on subject, what size cotter pin are you all using? 1/8 X 1-3/4?

Official LCI part number is 122075, but yes, it's a 1 3/4" x 1/8" cotter pin. Much cheaper at hardware store than what Lippert sells them for ($3 each). I usually buy them in a 10 pack.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:55 AM   #11
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The 50 ft-lbs of torque is to ensure the bearings are properly re-seated, especially if you've replaced the bearings. A torque wrench and/or socket isn't mandatory but may help some folks. The castle nuts end up being finger-tightened and then backed off to the align the cotter pin to the nearest hole on the axle shaft. Dexter instructions are here: https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defa....pdf?sfvrsn=10


If you need a socket or wrench to undo these nuts someone has been in there before you and re-installed the castle nuts wrong and may have even damaged bearings.

We once had our dealer remove our drums and do a bearing inspection & repack. Several thousand miles later on a long road trip, I found that one of the drums/hubs was quite a bit hotter than the rest using an IR gun. Got home, pulled the wheels off and found I had to use a socket to undo the nuts. They were well over-tightened. I ended up replacing the bearings with Timkens. Because of this (and plenty of other things) I no longer trust a dealer for doing anything...
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:01 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andymil View Post
Never used anything but slip joint pliers.

https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-4.../dp/B00002N5JF
X2
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:16 AM   #13
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As mentioned, I believe the 'official' size is 1/8" x 1-3/4" for the cotter pin.

But really, anything close will do. It just keeps the nut from backing off.
I've even used a nail in a pinch.
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:24 AM   #14
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I've always wondered about cotter pin quality. It's not like they have grade marking on them or are color coded.

Curious - can a pack of them from HF be just as good as some from an auto parts store or industrial supplier? I'm restoring a couple of cars and not sure if it matters much?

And what if you need metric cotter pins?
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Old 05-03-2019, 04:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myredracer View Post
I've always wondered about cotter pin quality. It's not like they have grade marking on them or are color coded.

Curious - can a pack of them from HF be just as good as some from an auto parts store or industrial supplier? I'm restoring a couple of cars and not sure if it matters much?

And what if you need metric cotter pins?
Probably all from the same factory in China anyway.

If you need a left handed metric cotter pin, they are the hardest ones to find!!!! Usually have to come from the UK, as they use them on trailers over there (made to work best when driving on the left side of the road).
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Old 05-04-2019, 06:51 AM   #16
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I always like to pick up cotter pins from Fastenal! I think they have most every size imaginable!
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