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Old 09-17-2016, 05:11 PM   #1
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: West Side
Posts: 93
All is not as it seems.

I have a 2015 Flagstaff MicroLite 21FBRS. I just installed a new Thetford Aqua Magic Residence toilet. In doing so, I tore through the bathroom floor trying to remove the original metal closet flange (which I discovered is permanently attached to the black water tank). The floor is made of two sheets of very thin wood pressed together with 1/4" of white Styrofoam between them like an Oreo cookie. The wood was soft and wet, and now I know the cause of a spongy floor. I cut four pieces of 1/2" plywood and placed them tightly between the outer edges of the flange and the walls and shower stall to form a solid wooden frame. I then placed a new plastic flange with a down spout into the sewer hole directly on top of the original flange and fastened the new toilet with its two bolts. The existing toilet water supply line was measured to exactly fit the intake nipple of the original Dometic standard toilet, and is two inches or so too short to attach to the new Thetford toilet, which is taller and has its intake nipple in a different place. I had to manipulate the new toilet into a slightly cockeyed position to connect the water supply line. If anyone has an idea on how to easily extend the water supply line to correctly fit the new toilet, I would truly appreciate it. I was initially angry and frustrated with all the problems I've had with my trailer, but I am so comfortable with my repairs and modifications that I believe my trailer is much better now than when I first bought it. I didn't know nor appreciate that a new trailer could quickly turn into a fixer-upper, but I've learned a lot and have a renewed confidence in my unit. Happy fall camping my friends!

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Old 09-17-2016, 05:19 PM   #2
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A photo of what you have to deal with will bring lots of suggestions. Not knowing what you have, well, cut and add...... if you get my drift.

Dale & Karen
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Old 09-17-2016, 05:55 PM   #3
Join Date: Mar 2016
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WIlcox, thanks for your reply. I haven't taken photos of any of my repairs and modifications. Perhaps I will begin to do so.
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Old 09-17-2016, 06:08 PM   #4
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Old 09-18-2016, 12:38 PM   #5
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Hector , the easy way is to cut your line near the floor use a shark bite fitting with a male 1/2" pipe end then use a flexible pre made line with two female 1/2" pipe ends to finish connection. It makes it real easy because you can hook up water line ,then mount toilet.
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Old 09-18-2016, 02:47 PM   #6
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Not the help you are looking for - but I wanted to compliment you on digging in and learning about how your TT is built and making it better. I have watched DH tear out and completely rebuild the back corner of an old Motorhome we owned years ago and saw how great the outcome was. We gave our son and daughter-in-law an older MH last Christmas and between their skills they have made a great little unit. He is a mechanic and has gone over the mechanical parts of it from end to end and it now runs like new. She has ripped torn painted upholstered and sewn the interior and it's a doll house. Keep flexing those DIY muscles and you will save a LOT of money.

Phil, Heather & Olaf the Boxer
Ontario Canada
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Old 09-18-2016, 03:35 PM   #7
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Most hardware stores have braided water lines of various lengths that will fit your connections. I use one that is long enough to form a loop behind the toilet so I could install a sprayer "T" in the line and not stress the pex fittings. They come in different size connections, so make sure you know what size you need or take the fitting off and take it with you to the store. The braided lines are mostly used to connect household toilets to their water shutoff valves. They are not expensive.
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Old 09-18-2016, 03:53 PM   #8
Join Date: Nov 2015
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This is a great opportunity to install a shut off valve for any repair of the new toilet or to isolate to save water while boon-docking and use alternative water source for flushing
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Old 09-18-2016, 11:43 PM   #9
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Your water supply line comes from under the shower base into a 3" x 3" L-shaped box built against the wall behind the toilet. Pull the toilet and remove the box to access the line. You will have plenty of room to cut the line back a few inches to accomodate a sharkbite coupling and a extension to the pex pipe.

Adapt the box as required and re-install.

As to your flange adaption, I would suggest you completely seal around the outside of the new flange extension where it enters the old flange to prevent sewer gas/odor from entering the bathroom from under the toilet. The wax seal might not block it completely.

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