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Old 10-26-2019, 09:52 AM   #1
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Best RV Sealing Product

Seem to be despite my campers “new” status it could use to have have some work done on it. Specifically should these penetrations be sealed? Seem logical? What product would best be used? Camper is Primetime Manufacturing Pics for reference. Click image for larger version

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I also plan on making this access panel/door operable so if anyone has any advise on that I’ll take that too. Thanks.
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Old 10-26-2019, 09:55 AM   #2
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Do I need access to this connection?Click image for larger version

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ID:	218085now I know why there is not access to this. It’s a mess on here.
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Old 10-26-2019, 10:00 AM   #3
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Best RV Sealing Product

Spray foam. https://www.greatstuff.dupont.com/?u...SAAEgKWaPD_BwE
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Old 10-26-2019, 10:03 AM   #4
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Spray foam.
X2. And will help keep the mice out!
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Old 10-26-2019, 10:16 AM   #5
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As for the holes in the floor, before sealing them up first note what's on the other side. If these holes merely go into the enclosed space created by a large corrugated sheet of plastic enclosing holding tanks, as well as freshwater fank, I'd consider leaving them open. They will bleed heat into the enclosed space and keep it above freezing when the furnace is running. At least they do on my TT. Just make sure that the edges of the corrugated plastic panel are sealed. On my TT I used a roll of aluminum foil tape used for sealing furnace ducts, Wrapped it over the edge and back onto the frame flange. Only way for air in or out of this space is through two small 1-1/2-2" louvered vents on the bottom of the panel and the various penetrations such as those you pictured.

I agree that "Great Stuff" is wonderful for sealing openings like this. Give some consideration to the future if you decide to use it. Perhaps wrapping a piece of plastic (I usually just cut open a zip lock bag wien I want something like this) around pipe/wiring and then foaming around the outside of the plastic.

If you ever have to move/change'add/replace a pipe or wire it's not covered with the foam which is near impossible to get off once it's cured.

As for making the area pictured accessible with a door, just use the panel you removed, frame it with some molding that fits in with the rest of the doors, add hinges and a latch. I've got a corner "compartment" like that in my bathroom that's one of those "when I get a "Round TUIT" projects

BTW: If the other side of the holes is the void between frame rails, and the covering panel is sealed all around (as most are) mice will not be able to enter.
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Old 10-26-2019, 10:32 AM   #6
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While I love the finished effect, it's very messy to work with. Wear disposible gloves, put paper down under the application area, don't touch wet product. Once dry you can easily remove any excess with a table knife. It's a one time use. Can't reapply from the same can because it seals the nozzle and tube. If it gets on anything, let it dry before removing. Great results for sealing openings.
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Old 10-26-2019, 11:27 AM   #7
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While I love the finished effect, it's very messy to work with. Wear disposible gloves, put paper down under the application area, don't touch wet product. Once dry you can easily remove any excess with a table knife. It's a one time use. Can't reapply from the same can because it seals the nozzle and tube. If it gets on anything, let it dry before removing. Great results for sealing openings.

Absolutely wear disposable gloves. I learned the hard way years ago. Got some on my fingers and the only way I could get it off was to wait until it had cured somewhat and then scrape it off with a pocket knife. Not easy and somewhat painful on the thin skin on the backside of the fingers.
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Old 10-26-2019, 11:36 AM   #8
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Wow. No penetrations are seal. I’m not going to leave these open. Great stuff is on the way. Hear you on blue gloves and I don’t on duct taping some “form work” underneath to only add material where the floor was. I will not blindly pump it into holes. I see what down there. This camper also has access from beneath should I regret my penetration material selection. Thanks
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Old 10-26-2019, 02:06 PM   #9
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You can get multiple uses from a can of Great Stuff if you unscrew top and put a few drops of acetone into can nozzle. You can also send a few drops down the straw to clear it. The Works for cleanup BEFORE the Great stuff cures. Once cured it will not work.
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Old 10-26-2019, 04:38 PM   #10
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Spray foam
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Old 10-26-2019, 06:33 PM   #11
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Sealing holes

I commend you for your thorough inspection of your new RV, and you're getting plenty of good advice about Great Stuff and procedures.

However, I'm surprised no one mentioned steel wool. I've always thought foam alone wasn't much of a barrier or deterrent to mice looking for an opening. I always first stuff the hole with a coarse grade of steel wool. Great Stuff completely permeates the steel wool and gives what I think is a more robust deterrent - it tickles their tooth fillings
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Old 10-26-2019, 06:54 PM   #12
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I use non expanding foam (it don't make a mess like the stuff it blows up to 37x the size you need.


to fix holes in the coroplast(cover on bottom) I use metal heat duct tape, than caulk the sides with black silicone sealer. (only place I will use silicone on an RV)
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Old 10-26-2019, 07:02 PM   #13
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[QUOTE=TowPro;2210075]
to fix holes in the coroplast(cover on bottom) I use metal heat duct tape, than caulk the sides with black silicone sealer. (only place I will use silicone on an RV)[/QUOTE]


I've seen a number of comments about not using silicone sealants on an RV. I'm not disputing the opinion, but I don't understand the reason - could someone please explain why it's a problem?? ( sorry about the slight diversion from this thread)
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Old 10-26-2019, 07:36 PM   #14
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[QUOTE=jjuscg;2210084]
Quote:
Originally Posted by TowPro View Post

I've seen a number of comments about not using silicone sealants on an RV. I'm not disputing the opinion, but I don't understand the reason - could someone please explain why it's a problem?? ( sorry about the slight diversion from this thread)

Subsequent applications do not stick to existing silicone. So later when you fix that spot you are repairing, the fix won't stick to the previous silicone. Hidden leak.
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Old 10-26-2019, 10:01 PM   #15
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Thanks, BigRockr !

I wasn't aware of that problem with silicone. Now it makes perfect sense why we shouldn't use it. I appreciate all I learn from you folks on the Forum.
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Old 10-26-2019, 10:14 PM   #16
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I filled mine with stainless steel wool and then the Pest Block expanding foam.
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Old 10-27-2019, 01:05 AM   #17
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I also plan on making this access panel/door operable so if anyone has any advise on that I’ll take that too. Thanks.



I used velcro strips with adhesive backs and then stapled for added hold on my end cabinets so I could access the wiring if needed.
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Old 10-27-2019, 01:12 AM   #18
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Seem to be despite my campers “new” status it could use to have have some work done on it. Specifically should these penetrations be sealed? Seem logical? What product would best be used?

They make a foam filler specifically for rodent proofing. Great Stuff is called "Pestblock", DAP makes "Mouseshield" foam.
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Old 10-28-2019, 05:47 AM   #19
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Where does one buy stainless steel steel wool? Or maybe I’ll just do mouse shield. Thanks all.
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Old 10-28-2019, 05:52 AM   #20
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Absolutely wear disposable gloves. I learned the hard way years ago. Got some on my fingers and the only way I could get it off was to wait until it had cured somewhat and then scrape it off with a pocket knife. Not easy and somewhat painful on the thin skin on the backside of the fingers.
Wd40 cleans it up when wet
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