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10-26-2019, 09:52 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 62
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Best RV Sealing Product
Seem to be despite my campers “new” status it could use to have have some work done on it. Specifically should these penetrations be sealed? Seem logical? What product would best be used? Camper is Primetime Manufacturing Pics for reference.
I also plan on making this access panel/door operable so if anyone has any advise on that I’ll take that too. Thanks.
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10-26-2019, 09:55 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 62
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Do I need access to this connection? Attachment 1now I know why there is not access to this. It’s a mess on here.
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10-26-2019, 10:00 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Rockford, Michigan
Posts: 473
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Best RV Sealing Product
__________________
TT: Flagstaff 25FBLS
Previous TT: Jayco, Rockwood and Flagstaff
TV: 2017 F-150 SCREW, 3.5L Ecoboost, 10 speed, 3.55, 7000# GVWR, tow package.
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10-26-2019, 10:03 AM
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#4
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Part-Time Campground Host
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funengineer
Spray foam.
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X2. And will help keep the mice out!
__________________
Craig & Cath
2018 2902WS Rockwood Ultra Lite (with tons of Mods)
2022 F250 Lariat Super Cab, 7.3 gas w/10 Spd Xmsn
Equalizer Hitch w/4-Point Sway Control
Days camped since 2015(retirement): 1659
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10-26-2019, 10:16 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,285
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As for the holes in the floor, before sealing them up first note what's on the other side. If these holes merely go into the enclosed space created by a large corrugated sheet of plastic enclosing holding tanks, as well as freshwater fank, I'd consider leaving them open. They will bleed heat into the enclosed space and keep it above freezing when the furnace is running. At least they do on my TT. Just make sure that the edges of the corrugated plastic panel are sealed. On my TT I used a roll of aluminum foil tape used for sealing furnace ducts, Wrapped it over the edge and back onto the frame flange. Only way for air in or out of this space is through two small 1-1/2-2" louvered vents on the bottom of the panel and the various penetrations such as those you pictured.
I agree that "Great Stuff" is wonderful for sealing openings like this. Give some consideration to the future if you decide to use it. Perhaps wrapping a piece of plastic (I usually just cut open a zip lock bag wien I want something like this) around pipe/wiring and then foaming around the outside of the plastic.
If you ever have to move/change'add/replace a pipe or wire it's not covered with the foam which is near impossible to get off once it's cured.
As for making the area pictured accessible with a door, just use the panel you removed, frame it with some molding that fits in with the rest of the doors, add hinges and a latch. I've got a corner "compartment" like that in my bathroom that's one of those "when I get a "Round TUIT" projects
BTW: If the other side of the holes is the void between frame rails, and the covering panel is sealed all around (as most are) mice will not be able to enter.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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10-26-2019, 10:32 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 700
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While I love the finished effect, it's very messy to work with. Wear disposible gloves, put paper down under the application area, don't touch wet product. Once dry you can easily remove any excess with a table knife. It's a one time use. Can't reapply from the same can because it seals the nozzle and tube. If it gets on anything, let it dry before removing. Great results for sealing openings.
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10-26-2019, 11:27 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myxkp
While I love the finished effect, it's very messy to work with. Wear disposible gloves, put paper down under the application area, don't touch wet product. Once dry you can easily remove any excess with a table knife. It's a one time use. Can't reapply from the same can because it seals the nozzle and tube. If it gets on anything, let it dry before removing. Great results for sealing openings.
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Absolutely wear disposable gloves. I learned the hard way years ago. Got some on my fingers and the only way I could get it off was to wait until it had cured somewhat and then scrape it off with a pocket knife. Not easy and somewhat painful on the thin skin on the backside of the fingers.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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10-26-2019, 11:36 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 62
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10-26-2019, 02:06 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 175
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You can get multiple uses from a can of Great Stuff if you unscrew top and put a few drops of acetone into can nozzle. You can also send a few drops down the straw to clear it. The Works for cleanup BEFORE the Great stuff cures. Once cured it will not work.
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10-26-2019, 04:38 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 47
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Spray foam
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10-26-2019, 06:33 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Eastern Pa
Posts: 134
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Sealing holes
I commend you for your thorough inspection of your new RV, and you're getting plenty of good advice about Great Stuff and procedures.
However, I'm surprised no one mentioned steel wool. I've always thought foam alone wasn't much of a barrier or deterrent to mice looking for an opening. I always first stuff the hole with a coarse grade of steel wool. Great Stuff completely permeates the steel wool and gives what I think is a more robust deterrent - it tickles their tooth fillings
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10-26-2019, 06:54 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 1,669
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I use non expanding foam (it don't make a mess like the stuff it blows up to 37x the size you need.
to fix holes in the coroplast(cover on bottom) I use metal heat duct tape, than caulk the sides with black silicone sealer. (only place I will use silicone on an RV)
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10-26-2019, 07:02 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Eastern Pa
Posts: 134
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[QUOTE=TowPro;2210075]
to fix holes in the coroplast(cover on bottom) I use metal heat duct tape, than caulk the sides with black silicone sealer. (only place I will use silicone on an RV)[/QUOTE]
I've seen a number of comments about not using silicone sealants on an RV. I'm not disputing the opinion, but I don't understand the reason - could someone please explain why it's a problem?? ( sorry about the slight diversion from this thread)
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10-26-2019, 07:36 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 175
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[QUOTE=jjuscg;2210084]
Quote:
Originally Posted by TowPro
I've seen a number of comments about not using silicone sealants on an RV. I'm not disputing the opinion, but I don't understand the reason - could someone please explain why it's a problem?? ( sorry about the slight diversion from this thread)
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Subsequent applications do not stick to existing silicone. So later when you fix that spot you are repairing, the fix won't stick to the previous silicone. Hidden leak.
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10-26-2019, 10:01 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Eastern Pa
Posts: 134
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Thanks, BigRockr !
I wasn't aware of that problem with silicone. Now it makes perfect sense why we shouldn't use it. I appreciate all I learn from you folks on the Forum.
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10-26-2019, 10:14 PM
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#16
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Canadian Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Eastern GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,233
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I filled mine with stainless steel wool and then the Pest Block expanding foam.
__________________
2023 Rockwood Signature 8262RBS
2016 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCrew, 6.2L, 4x4, 6'9" bed
2019 Rockwood Signature 8290BS (2019 - 2022)
2011 Rockwood Signature 8293SS (2015 - 2018)
2010 Rockwood Roo 23SS (2012 - 2014)
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10-27-2019, 01:05 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 160
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Quote:
I also plan on making this access panel/door operable so if anyone has any advise on that I’ll take that too. Thanks.
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I used velcro strips with adhesive backs and then stapled for added hold on my end cabinets so I could access the wiring if needed.
__________________
2016 Rockwood Windjammer 3001W
2016 F150 SCREW 3.5 EB
ProPride 3P 1400
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10-27-2019, 01:12 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Undercover Poe
Seem to be despite my campers “new” status it could use to have have some work done on it. Specifically should these penetrations be sealed? Seem logical? What product would best be used?
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They make a foam filler specifically for rodent proofing. Great Stuff is called "Pestblock", DAP makes "Mouseshield" foam.
__________________
2016 Rockwood Windjammer 3001W
2016 F150 SCREW 3.5 EB
ProPride 3P 1400
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10-28-2019, 05:47 AM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 62
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Where does one buy stainless steel steel wool? Or maybe I’ll just do mouse shield. Thanks all.
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10-28-2019, 05:52 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
Absolutely wear disposable gloves. I learned the hard way years ago. Got some on my fingers and the only way I could get it off was to wait until it had cured somewhat and then scrape it off with a pocket knife. Not easy and somewhat painful on the thin skin on the backside of the fingers.
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Wd40 cleans it up when wet
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