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Old 04-14-2013, 09:26 PM   #11
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That idea has crossed my mind, however, to get to the cylinder, I will have to cut open the bottom of the trailer. I did take off one of the hoses at the pump & had my friend press the button to the slide - red oil shot out of the hose. Not sure if that is a good sign, but I hope it means the pump is working.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:44 PM   #12
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That idea has crossed my mind, however, to get to the cylinder, I will have to cut open the bottom of the trailer. I did take off one of the hoses at the pump & had my friend press the button to the slide - red oil shot out of the hose. Not sure if that is a good sign, but I hope it means the pump is working.
Here ya go, found this in another forum I read awhile back. This fellows answer and a total Hyd. pump overhaul. Lots of cooling time between cycles. 12 volt DC motor creates lots of heat.

"I had to run mine 6 8 times for 20 seconds, each time, to get the slides to start moving. I was concerned after about the fourth time and no movement, but I kept at it and once the pump got primed all was normal. Run it once for 20 seconds, wait 2 minutes to cool, the run it for another 20 seconds. Now wait 15 minutes for cool down and repeat above. "
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:08 PM   #13
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VinceU, I will try that approach first thing in the morning! Worth a try! Thanks for sharing.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:11 PM   #14
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That idea has crossed my mind, however, to get to the cylinder, I will have to cut open the bottom of the trailer.
That seems a little extreme, what would one do if a cylinder had to be replaced? Are there no removeable panels underneath? It seems your pump is working? Then again it also requires pressure along with flow? However if the fluid leaked out from the cylinders while the pump was being rebuilt the air can only be removed by loosening the nut at the cylinder! Are you sure there is no mechanical interference preventing the slide from moving?
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:26 PM   #15
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The only way (clean unmessy way) to remove the air is to drive it with oil back to the reservoir tank with cylinder movements. Since the pump was open the air is somewhat more difficult to move until it primes. Positive Displacement pumps are self priming, just takes longer than when flooded as when a cylinder is replaced.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:27 PM   #16
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Update: Pulled Pump/Motor Assembly back out & detached reservoir. Took a clear, clean tube & attached to both the retract & extract pump lines. Then using the manual hand pump, I primed the pump. The clear tube made it easy to see any air bubbles. Reattached reservoir (filling it back up with ATF), & connected to electrical & hydraulic lines. Slide-out now goes in & out as it should. Thanks for all of the help.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:03 PM   #17
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Update: Pulled Pump/Motor Assembly back out & detached reservoir. Took a clear, clean tube & attached to both the retract & extract pump lines. Then using the manual hand pump, I primed the pump. The clear tube made it easy to see any air bubbles. Reattached reservoir (filling it back up with ATF), & connected to electrical & hydraulic lines. Slide-out now goes in & out as it should. Thanks for all of the help.
Good shortcut!
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