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02-10-2011, 03:15 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint John, N.B. Canada
Posts: 69
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Block and level park model
I was wondering if anyone had some instructions on how to block and level a 39' park model. It was delivered to my property, in Nov, got it stuck in the mud and I want to move it and level it in the spring, when it dries up. Not sure where to start, front or back. Thanks
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02-16-2011, 11:50 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint John, N.B. Canada
Posts: 69
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Does anyone have any suggestions. Thanks
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02-16-2011, 01:35 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 517
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What I would recommend is get a level. If it's on dirt make sure tires are on some kind of board to slow down sinking in the dirt over time cause of the weight of the trailer. I would then put boards under each weight load location. The more places that take the weight the less it should move. Hope this helps.
__________________
2009 Dodge Ram Mega Cab 2500 6.7 cummins
2011 Forest River Cherokee 28BHKS
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02-17-2011, 10:44 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint John, N.B. Canada
Posts: 69
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Thanks, Scubie, would it be easier to start leveling in the rear or the front, or does it matter? NorminN.B.
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02-17-2011, 11:00 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: North Central Kansas
Posts: 543
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I would think side to side first.
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Everett & Joan after 60 years together. 2004 1/2 ton Chevy & 2011 Rockwood 1809S
Number of nights camped in 2012 65
Number of nights camped in 2013 82
Number of nights camped in 2014 105!
Number of nights camped in 2015 81
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02-17-2011, 11:04 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 517
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There is no correct answer you have to do it sync. If you don't you may go to far up on one support then you can not get another support to extend far enough do left that side to level.
Leveling can be a pain, just make sure in the end the camper is level and even weight on each support jack.
__________________
2009 Dodge Ram Mega Cab 2500 6.7 cummins
2011 Forest River Cherokee 28BHKS
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02-17-2011, 07:49 PM
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#7
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Villa Estate 392FLFB
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 1,085
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I made 2 foot high blocking out of 4x4's. I made 8 of them. 2 in the very back, 2 behind the wheels (where the bathroom is) 2 at the front right behind the hitch hookup, and the last 2 in front of the wheels.
__________________
One state/province at a time!
Full Timing - Salem Villa Estate - 392FLFB - Purchased July 29th 2010
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02-17-2011, 08:34 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint John, N.B. Canada
Posts: 69
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Thanks, Scubie. I will do the same as you, only I will use cement blocks, on a plastic pad underneath.
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02-17-2011, 08:53 PM
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#9
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Villa Estate 392FLFB
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 1,085
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thats what i wanted to do and do like 6 sets per side, but noone in town has them. thing of the past here apparently.
also jollymon has something like that.
https://picasaweb.google.com/NDJolly...erAtMapleLake#
__________________
One state/province at a time!
Full Timing - Salem Villa Estate - 392FLFB - Purchased July 29th 2010
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02-17-2011, 09:12 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Detroit Lakes MN home of We Fest
Posts: 304
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we have our 30f cherokee at a seasonal site whe we moved it in first thing we did was get it as close as possible to leval from side to side wich wasnt tuff at all if you have a few different sizes of lumber we then levaled it front to back which can be done with the front jack i then lowred the screw jack down onto 6x6x2 planks of treated ceader then after checking to make sure everything was still nice and leval i then went underneith with 4 of those screw jackstands and somemore 6x6s i placed two directly infront of the axels and two directly behind the axels and the other two inbetween the front jacs and the front axels these were turned just enough to put pressure on the frame when all done i have also installed 4 screw into the ground tie downs like those used in moble home parks our camper is nice and solid and doesnt rock or move it is also a good prctice to dive down ther every so often and check things out espsallt check for any seiiling good luck
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02-18-2011, 12:09 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint John, N.B. Canada
Posts: 69
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I will use cement blocks like Jollyman, except, I will use 2 blocks stacked side by side, like Stuff did, and sitting on a plastic footer. I got them from the dealer, when they delivered it. Thanks.
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07-12-2011, 10:15 AM
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#12
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Villa Estate 392FLFB
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 1,085
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When I moved my trailer back after the great flood scare this year, i only used 6 of the 8 blocks i made and it works good to.
__________________
One state/province at a time!
Full Timing - Salem Villa Estate - 392FLFB - Purchased July 29th 2010
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07-12-2011, 11:05 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Eagle, WI
Posts: 45
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We have a 40 footer on a seasonal site also.
First level the trailer side to side by the tires. Then you can level it with the front trailer hitch. Then place blocks in at least 4 places on each side, and use a hard wood wedge to tighten the blocks to the trailer frame. you should be able to get some of these wedges from your local dealer. Double check the level at the various areas. We used a bottle jack to fine tune each area, and it worked out great.
I hope this helps
__________________
Kevin
Seasonal in Wi Dells, WI
2007, Salem 4022B
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07-13-2011, 06:52 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint John, N.B. Canada
Posts: 69
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07-14-2011, 10:50 AM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Eagle, WI
Posts: 45
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Looks good. I think I will double up on the block like you did. I only have single stacks.
__________________
Kevin
Seasonal in Wi Dells, WI
2007, Salem 4022B
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07-14-2011, 03:31 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint John, N.B. Canada
Posts: 69
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I think double makes it a little more secure. The dealer provided the plastic pads underneath the cement blocks.
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