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Old 07-29-2010, 08:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jas View Post
oh yeah, drum brakes of all designs self adjust in the reverse direction only.
Electric drum brakes such as found on my trailer do
not self adjust period. They do not have any self adjusting
mechanism.
They also don't work in reverse.
By that I mean they don't brake much or at all in
reverse even if you hold the manual over-ride on
the electric brake control.
Tapping them in reverse would have no effect.
You have to manually adjust them.
That's easy and takes only a couple minutes per wheel
not counting the time it takes you to jack it up.
Read the manual or look it up at the ALKO website.

Please be careful making statements like you did
above. These are TRAILER brakes and do not work
like automotive brakes. Don't assume you know
how they work unless you have actual real world
experience with ELECTRIC TRAILER brakes.

I know what I'm talking about because I had mine
apart earlier this year.
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Old 07-29-2010, 09:40 PM   #12
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personally, I repack the bearings and tighten the nut 1 good grunt past hand tight to seat the bearings. I then back off 1/2 turn and lock it in. Here's a good tech article on the proper procedure:

TECHNICAL INFORMATION AND TECH ARTICLES

scroll around on the page, there is a lot of good bearing tips


Thanks Jas That was JUST what I needed. Bearings will be inspected and repacked this fall.
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:05 PM   #13
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Dexter does make a self-adjusting electric brake, but I doubt you'll find them on many travel trailers.
They're just not cost effective for RV manufacturers.

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Old 07-29-2010, 10:42 PM   #14
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Those of you who had their bearings out; what torque did you use on the axle nut?

Do you just tightened until the rotor does not turn and then back off one cotter key slot?

Never did a trailer (obviously) so I am wondering.
On my Al-Ko axles I torque the nut while spinning the drum to 20 ft/lbs ... then loosen the nut right off, and torque to 7 ft/lbs (don't spin the drum) ... then back the nut off to the nearest hole where the cotter pin aligns, then I check end play with a run out guage (i'm fussy ok) and its usually between .005 and .010 of end play which is in spec. Also I always use new cotter pins.
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Old 07-30-2010, 12:09 AM   #15
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On my Al-Ko axles I torque the nut while spinning the drum to 20 ft/lbs ... then loosen the nut right off, and torque to 7 ft/lbs (don't spin the drum) ... then back the nut off to the nearest hole where the cotter pin aligns, then I check end play with a run out gauge (i'm fussy ok) and its usually between .005 and .010 of end play which is in spec. Also I always use new cotter pins.
Thanks again. Like I said earlier I have let the GMC/Buick dealer (we have a good one) manage the maintenance on my car and truck for over 25 years. I have only recently found out that my RV dealer can't be trusted to do most anything, and I need to get the tools out again.

I am depending on you guys with the trailer smarts to keep me straight.

The article Jas posted used a procedure very similar to yours.
The torque values are very close and the end play is a good cross check. Do you use a flat feeler gauge or a wire one?
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Old 07-30-2010, 01:25 AM   #16
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I use a dial gauge ...
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Old 07-30-2010, 07:50 AM   #17
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The hub and drum are all one piece and I was able to get the bearing buddy off with no problem. My concern is that there was no cotter pin holding the nut on, but there was a flat washer type thing with a tab on it which sat on top of the bearing and seem to maybe keep the nut from spinning off. Anybody have any insight here?
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:02 AM   #18
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Never mind I figured it out by reading the link that Jas posted. It looks like I just need to bend one of the tabs up once I set the bearing and get the nut tightened to spec.

The last question I have is where is the best place to get a new wheel stud?
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:17 AM   #19
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Never mind I figured it out by reading the link that Jas posted. It looks like I just need to bend one of the tabs up once I set the bearing and get the nut tightened to spec.

The last question I have is where is the best place to get a new wheel stud?
Did you note where it said never to reuse the old tab washer?
They are "use once - throw away" according to that post.

I bought studs at Autozone. They had a complete selection and can match up your old one. Bring a lug nut too as there are different thread pitch as well as length differences.
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:34 AM   #20
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I do as others, and tighten the spindle nut down, then back off about a 1/8 to 1/4 turn and install the cotter pin (tabs on Easy Lube Hubs). But that doesn't always work. I had 1 bearing on my Trailmanor that was running hotter than I like, so I took it to a local trailer shop after I failed to see anything wrong with it. They couldn't find anything wrong either, but I noticed when he tightened the spindle nut, the technician took a lot of time "feeling" the play in the hub. He would tighten the nut, spin the wheel and feel for play, then he loosened the nut some, spun the wheel and felt for play again, and finally settled on a spot to install the tabs. That bearing ran the same temperature as the other side after that. Curious as how his setting was different from mine, I checked the play, and his setting had less play than how I had set up the hub....probably only 1 notch difference.....but it made a difference. Most of the time I trust my mechanical work more than others, but this guy was good. Experience seemed to be the key, which I didn't have. I will continue to do my own maintenance, and maybe the experience will eventually come.
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