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Old 07-26-2018, 12:56 PM   #21
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smoking brakes

My son and I did this coming back from MI. $880 and 6 hours later we were back on the road. Something in the truck bed fell on the cable to the switch.
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Old 07-26-2018, 01:01 PM   #22
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Yep, same as me, but no real damage except brake shoes.
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Originally Posted by gabanelson View Post
My son and I did this coming back from MI. $880 and 6 hours later we were back on the road. Something in the truck bed fell on the cable to the switch.
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Old 07-26-2018, 01:19 PM   #23
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Wow, I don't see how they made it to the campground without knowing. I have had the line get snagged while turning in campground and it slams the brakes so hard it jerks the truck to a stop, and you can not move until the switch is plugged in. I would get brakes adjusted.
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Old 07-26-2018, 01:48 PM   #24
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That will not happen at 60mph
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Wow, I don't see how they made it to the campground without knowing. I have had the line get snagged while turning in campground and it slams the brakes so hard it jerks the truck to a stop, and you can not move until the switch is plugged in. I would get brakes adjusted.
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Old 07-26-2018, 10:29 PM   #25
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Best towing accessory. Used it on my TT and got a fifth wheel length for the fiver.

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acc...kaway_Kit.aspx
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Old 07-26-2018, 11:14 PM   #26
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Best towing accessory. Used it on my TT and got a fifth wheel length for the fiver.

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acc...kaway_Kit.aspx
I just got one of those on amazon, It comes with a nice big clip and it won't drag on the ground. I got the 6 footer so there was no chance it would get too short and tug out, 6 foot is only about 8 inches when it's coiled up so it's not like there's a pile of slack to deal with.
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Old 07-27-2018, 07:06 PM   #27
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It can sure happen, and to anybody as far as I’m concerned. I’m glad no one was hurt. The repairs alone will make them semi paranoid in the future I’m betting. Person i know just had that happen on a mountain pass here in Montana. No one hurt but totaled both trailer and rv and did zero for his peace of mind...
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Old 07-27-2018, 10:57 PM   #28
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That will not happen at 60mph
Why not? The breakaway system doesn’t have any speed sensors. When it is activated the brakes receive 12+ volts of unmodulated power. If all the tires don’t completely lock up then there is a problem at the wheels.

Looking at the picture is confusing because it appears the burnt wires indicate a short between the positive and the trailer ground. Once the wire burned through (maybe less than 10 seconds) then positive continuity to the brakes would be interrupted and there would no longer be any braking.

Maybe the “burnt” wire is only heat damaged and the core did not short out. In that case the heat had to originate within the breakaway switch. Something inside the switch shorted because if the pin is pulled there’s no time limit for the switch (although the brakes will continue to heat up after stopping because of the unmodulated voltage).
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Old 08-02-2018, 07:08 PM   #29
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Best towing accessory. Used it on my TT and got a fifth wheel length for the fiver.

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acc...kaway_Kit.aspx
X2
I use one of these also. I am glad no one got hurt. I do think I would notice the trailer brakes coming on but I guess you never know until it is you in the hot seat.
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Old 08-02-2018, 07:47 PM   #30
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Truck driver here. I spent about 5 years pulling goose neck flatbeds and utility trailers for a local trucking company that did hotshot runs. The break-a-way brake systems on those trailers were the same as the one on my Rockwood travel trailer. We had problems with salt. The road salt used in the winter eats up exposed wires and connectors, and will do it faster than you might expect. One pinhole in a wire from a tester can corrode six feet of wire. The salt sprayed on the roads in winter is caustic, it will stick on the exposed wires and contacts and draw moisture from the air, even on relatively dry days. Stranded wire will act like a wick, moving salt and moisture through the wire even under the insulation. It ruins lights and electric brakes. While the failure described in this thread was likely caused by the accidental removal of the pin, it is still VERY VERY VERY important to do regular checkups for and on any exposed wiring on the trailer. Anything that is exposed needs dielectric grease and/or protection of some kind (shrink tubing) Just fyi. Love this forum, thanks for all the great info you folks gather and post here.
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Old 08-02-2018, 07:52 PM   #31
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Break away switch

I actually saw the bird fly between my truck and the TT. I immediately felt the pull and pulled over immediately. Simple enough to put the pin back in.
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Old 08-02-2018, 08:38 PM   #32
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I just got one of those on amazon, It comes with a nice big clip and it won't drag on the ground. I got the 6 footer so there was no chance it would get too short and tug out, 6 foot is only about 8 inches when it's coiled up so it's not like there's a pile of slack to deal with.
X2!
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Old 08-02-2018, 09:14 PM   #33
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just saying

Unhooking the battery would not cut power to the brakes because the system is also powered by the tow vehicles 12 volt supply from the 7 prong plug.
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Old 08-02-2018, 09:20 PM   #34
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I heard those coiled type break away cables are a bad idea.... I think it was on a youtube episode of "long long honeymoon" LOLOHO. Your cable really needs to be shorter than your safety chains in order to operate correctly. The coil type cables will not allow that unless the trailer completely comes off the hitch and breaks the chains. If the cable is shorter than the safety chains and for some reason the trailer comes off the ball, it will engage the trailer brake. If not and you try t brake the tow vehicle you will get rear-ended by your own trailer.
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Old 08-02-2018, 09:26 PM   #35
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He isn't a two footed driver is he ? Just a thought.
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Old 08-03-2018, 11:27 AM   #36
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had mine on our 5th wheel TH unplug as I turned a corner coming out of a campsite and could not figure out why the truck would not haul the unit. another camper looked it over and then replaced the break away back into the housing. it did it once again when getting fuel and since then I installed a 6 foot coiled breakaway. no more issues.
yours is melted and the entire unit needs replacing
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Old 08-03-2018, 11:29 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by Code13 View Post
I heard those coiled type break away cables are a bad idea.... I think it was on a youtube episode of "long long honeymoon" LOLOHO. Your cable really needs to be shorter than your safety chains in order to operate correctly. The coil type cables will not allow that unless the trailer completely comes off the hitch and breaks the chains. If the cable is shorter than the safety chains and for some reason the trailer comes off the ball, it will engage the trailer brake. If not and you try t brake the tow vehicle you will get rear-ended by your own trailer.
You do not want it shorter. It should only activate if the chains break.
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Old 08-03-2018, 01:33 PM   #38
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You do not want it shorter. It should only activate if the chains break.
Agree. If the ball breaks or the hitch comes off the ball and drops, the safety chains should keep it attached. Apply "trailer brakes only" by hand to stop. Your trailer power cord should be long enough to keep the brake circuit functional. This will hopefully minimize TV damage by having the trailer pull against the chains and stop your rig safely. Make minimum turns or steering corrections to get off the road.

If the trailer power cord pulls out and the chains are still in tact, you will probably have TV damage unless you can safely make LONG SLOW STOP.

If the chains don't hold the breakaway activation will hopefully stop the trailer safely, or you will have the lawsuit of the century.
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Old 08-03-2018, 01:40 PM   #39
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Curious how the breakaway activating with the chains still attached can cause damage to the tow vehicle.
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Old 08-03-2018, 01:46 PM   #40
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Curious how the breakaway activating with the chains still attached can cause damage to the tow vehicle.
It typically won't.
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