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Old 06-18-2017, 08:46 PM   #11
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Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions. I will try the easy ones first and work my way up to ceiling replacement if needed.
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Old 06-19-2017, 04:48 AM   #12
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an old painters trick

If you decide to go the seal and paint route I would suggest using Shellac instead of Kilz to seal the stain before the paint. Being alcohol based instead of water based it will seal what Kilz will not, which includes water stains that I have had bleed right through Kilz.

Shellac also has the wonderful property of being fast drying. Using Orange shellac will help you see where you have applied it and it will be covered up by the paint. You can even use this trick on oil based things, like crayons on the walls if children write on the walls with their crayons
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Old 06-22-2017, 08:28 PM   #13
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Thanks for the IR thermometer idea. I don't know how long it takes after a leak to detect. I recently had a leak and got it sealed up. I ran a dehumidifier for a day and always have Eva-Dri units in the MH. I added damprid near the spot a see very little moisture. The air conditioner is also on most days. Upon closer inspection it appears that there have been other leaks, likely while it was on the dealer lot. The IR thermometer shows no temperature irregularities. I took the precaution of sealing all of the marker lights with silocone, also.
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Old 07-15-2017, 09:22 AM   #14
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UPDATE

After the small leak was found and sealed, I ran an electric dehumidifier in the MH for a couple weeks to make sure the inside was bone dry. I had removed the ceiling light and the foam backing was dry, but I left it out during the dehumidification just in case trapped vapors needed a way out.

I tried the bleach thing, but the only time it made any difference was when I soaked white paper towels and applied it behind aluminum foil taped all around to prevent drying while the bleach did its thing. The color went, but a shadow was still left.

Then I moved on to the stain blocker method. A trip to Lowes and a spray can of Zinsser did the trick. The bright white color is a perfect match. I would post an "after" picture, but it would serve no purpose since the fix made it look new again.
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Old 07-15-2017, 03:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hexnut View Post
After the small leak was found and sealed, I ran an electric dehumidifier in the MH for a couple weeks to make sure the inside was bone dry. I had removed the ceiling light and the foam backing was dry, but I left it out during the dehumidification just in case trapped vapors needed a way out.



I tried the bleach thing, but the only time it made any difference was when I soaked white paper towels and applied it behind aluminum foil taped all around to prevent drying while the bleach did its thing. The color went, but a shadow was still left.



Then I moved on to the stain blocker method. A trip to Lowes and a spray can of Zinsser did the trick. The bright white color is a perfect match. I would post an "after" picture, but it would serve no purpose since the fix made it look new again.


Great job/outcome, thanks for the follow up!!
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Old 07-16-2017, 02:55 PM   #16
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I just had another leak. Trying to decide if the soft touch or hard panel ceiling is better for detecting and drying out leaks. Any other long term leak survivors have input? I will put the dehumidifier in here for the week that I am home. I discovered the leak because of the musty smell in the foam and vinyl. I thought I saw some black mold which seemed to go away upon treatment with hydrogen peroxide. It is taking quite a while to get rid of the odor. I am in a campground so I am running the A/C as much as I can.
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:52 AM   #17
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Follow up comments...

So far so good regarding more leaks, but now I am looking at the condition of the sealant like a hawk. I just discovered a few more suspect areas that I need to seal. I find it amazing how fast these things can appear. The major issue I see is the way the roof is constructed does not allow the roof to drain entirely.

In several TT's I have owned, the roof membrane wrapped over the edge of the sidewalls and the crowned roof allows the rain water to be drained completely. My MBS has that appearance from below, but a look at the top shows a dam along ALL the edges causing standing water especially at the corners. This is NOT what you want when caulk is the only thing preventing a leak under standing water. Even a pinhole will leak under standing water!

I am presently preparing the roof for dicor sealant and eternabond so I can be somewhat confident water will stay outside. This is likely the best I can do with the way the roof is configured. Lesson learned, get on the roof before buying an RV and look at it often after you do!
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