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Old 09-14-2011, 10:47 PM   #1
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Charger and refrigerator problems

Recently picked up a 99 Flagstaff and going thru it found the charger (Magnatek 6332) boils the battery @ 16.5v! All ac/dc works otherwise.
and...... Dometic rm2652 fridge section does not cool but freezer works, same on gas or electric. Anyone out there have same problems.

Really hoping to travel to NM mountains soon and try it.
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:01 PM   #2
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the converter is an adjustment. if u bought from a dealer, they may know which one it is. (it is inside the converter). not meant to be user adjustable.

frig, they usually take several hours to cool. they start in the freezer section then the heat sink (fins in the back and top of the frig) will start cooling.

another thing to look at is a wire clipped to the fins (heat sink). make sure it is clipped on. its position top to bottom sets the temp of the frig. believe it is that way on urs. there may even be a scale on the wall of the frig next to it.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:26 AM   #3
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Thanks for the reply....found a schematic showing pot adjustment on charger. Will try it.

I reseated the sensor on the fridge fin earlier. It was only 60 degrees after 12 hours. I checked the door seal and it looks ok, clean and not damaged.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:36 AM   #4
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I know folks say to wait 24 hours for a RV refrigerator to get fully cold but
mine will go from room temp to 40 in 6 hours on LP. Nearly that fast on AC.
If yours is reasonably level and it's been on 12 hours and it's only 60 there
is likely something wrong. What it is, I can't even guess.

Good Luck!
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:40 AM   #5
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Yep....does not make sense that freezer works but fridge barely cools. There is a recall on the fridge....I will have it checked when I take it on for recall.

Thanks for your reply.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:42 AM   #6
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That fridge may have a recall notice. Check that out here: Dometic Recall Information - Dometic

Many of the older built in battery chargers were not 3 stage, and will boil you battery.
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:28 AM   #7
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Tried to adjust output voltage on Magnatek....only can adjust .2 to .5 volts + or -. Voltage output constant now at 16-16.5v so disco'd battery. Gave up and now looking online at PD9245CV....looks good and will fit in the existing space, any pros or cons??
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:44 AM   #8
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unfortunately, when they quit controlling, it is usually something in the control other than the adjustment.

i may have asked this already but. if u check another battery, does ur meter read the 12.6v or does it read high? i'm wondering if ur meter is displaying the correct voltage. there is a certain amt of pulse in the DC from the converter, this can trip up some meters.
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:59 AM   #9
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I think I've read where folks bought the replacement control board
for less $$ than a whole new unit.
Just a thought......

Check out these guys http://www.bestconverter.com/

Good luck!
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Old 09-19-2011, 01:21 PM   #10
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Check another battery as Jim suggests. My el'cheao' multi meter was reading my battery at over 16v the other day. Checked it on the TV battery and it read it high too. I think I have a bum multimeter...
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Old 09-21-2011, 06:52 AM   #11
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i had a couple of other questions. how long does it take to boil the battery? if it is a month to get down to the plates, this can happen...some don't regulate the charge very well.

the pot adjustment may not bring it down any more because the output may be below what the battery voltage is (it would not be overcoming the battery voltage).

if u determine that it is the meter, i would go back and readjust that pot until the voltage stops moving in the low direction. let the battery drop a couple tenths of a volt for abt an hr, then advance the pot slightly till u see a small movement on the meter (i like analogue meters, it is easier to see what ur doing). ur wanting to keep the battery charged but not overcharged.

is the battery hot or warm? mine have always been very warm when the battery goes bad but the voltage drops when the systems is unplugged as well.

i would hate to see u buy another board and have the same problem.
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Old 09-21-2011, 07:26 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmaxey View Post
Yep....does not make sense that freezer works but fridge barely cools. There is a recall on the fridge....I will have it checked when I take it on for recall.

Thanks for your reply.
i don't know if u upper frig vents out the top or side. if it is in a slide out, chances are that it has a fan in there to move the air across the outside coil. if that is the case, the fan may not be working. there was one recently that had ur symptoms and it was a fan. along the same line, check to make sure the ventilation thru the outside coil hasn't somehow become obstructed.

the recall on the earlier frig was because of a possible weak weld in the sealed system. what they did was put a shield around the burner w/sensors. if u do develop a leak, the sensor should sense the extra heat and shut off the gas.
the latest recall may be different.
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:09 AM   #13
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Charger boils the battery within 15 min...I am sure meter is ok. Have checked it on other batteries. This charger has not been used in 7-8 years. The first 2-3 days voltage output was 13.5 to 14.5, then I checked it a couple of days later and it was 16.7....not good. The battery is new installed it the day I picked up the trailer.
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:19 AM   #14
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I have to replace the fridge top vent and will check for obstruction. I closely inspected door seal....looks good. When I first connected fridge it cooled down to 40 degrees after 12-14 hours....with propane and then switched to power. Have replaced propane reg since and need to check with gas again. In responding it occured to me
problem may only be with power. AC voltage is good to outlet
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Old 09-21-2011, 02:24 PM   #15
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If ur boiling within 15 min, definately a problem. Its like it isn't getting the ref from the bat.
The frig,that was my only thoughts. With the roof vent, doubt that u have a fan.
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:44 PM   #16
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if the frig works on gas, i would say u don't have a vintelation problem. if the problem is only on AC, and ur 110V is ok, u may have a heating element that isn't putting out enough. that could be anything from a corroded contact to a bad heating coil.
the converter, kydan's suggestion abt the control board may be ur next move. reguardless of what i feel abt ur meter, i can't ignore that the battery is bubbling.
has AC been on on the trailer the entire time while the voltage drifted or has it been off most of the time? heat will cause electronic components to drift. is the fan working on the converter? i worked with a guy that used freeze mist to trouble shoot electronic problems. i was often supprised at how often he got it right.
let us know what solves it.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:30 AM   #17
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Trailer was off power entire time...have cleaned up several corroded connections. Gave up on converter and ordered a replacement PD9245CV....should be here next week.
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Old 09-25-2011, 07:42 AM   #18
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Sorry jimh, reread your comments today and power was on during voltage drift the whole time. Weather was hot during this time also and the fan was running. removed the power for a few days and reconnected...watched voltage rise to 16.7-17.1v. Battery boiled after 15min.
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