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Old 09-26-2010, 11:08 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by railrode View Post
50 amp rv's are 240 volts (2 hot legs, neutral and ground) 4 wires... Nothing inside the rv uses 240 volts but the panel inside splits it to, 2-120 volt circuits. For example, 1 a/c on one circuit and the 2nd a/c on the other. Each circuit(120 leg) are and should be of a different phase, as 2 (120 legs) of the same phase should not share the same neutral.

A 30 amp rv outlet, 120volts (1 hot leg, neutral and ground) 3 wires, should never have a 2-pole breaker on the main outlet.

This is true but the danger here becomes when a well meaning individual tells people that a 50amp RV "runs on 240 volts" and the "Conveter/charger runs on 240 volts". This kind of mis-information is what Camprat is trying to get at. This is NOT good information and could cost someone who doesn't know any beter a lot of money or worse start a fire!

For simplicity sake a 50 amp RV runs on two 110volt circuits, leave the whole 240 volt thing out of the equasion lest some confused individual asks a moron electrician to wire his RV receptacle for 240 volts! Again, it has happend with disaterous results.

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Old 09-26-2010, 12:02 PM   #12
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Camprat, I believe you are stressing the importance of proper grounding. Grounding provides a path for electricity to follow back to its source in the event of a fault. If that path is not installed, you could become that path with fatal results. 600 people are electricuted in the US each year due to bad electrical installations and ignorance about electrical wiring. One more tip for you all, circuit breakers protect equipment, GFCI's protect you.

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Old 09-26-2010, 01:23 PM   #13
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Thank you, all I wanted to do was to get people to thinking about what there doing! When giving advice & taking it. You can replace THINGS, but can you replace your kids or yourself.
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Old 09-26-2010, 02:06 PM   #14
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*****Five Star Thread*****

I've been doing my own wiring for many years and thought I knew enough to keep myself safe. Because of the great information supplied in this thread, I may even last a few more years. Too soon old and too late smart.
"If everything seems to be going well, look around, you've obviously overlooked something."
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Old 09-26-2010, 09:48 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by camprat View Post
Jimh you are right to say in house main services panel the neutral & grounds are wire the same, But any panel past the service is a sub-panel. This have the the neutral and ground isolated . The ground goes to the metal case of the panel, no jumper to the neutral buss. The rig you plug in to that house is a sub panel. If you look in your trailer panel that is how it wired. this is why if you have a open neutral on your sub feed or panel you don't lose your ground & if you have a hot to ground the breaker will trip. Just a simple explanation .

revrnd if you have a factory wire rig & cord your ok. the problem lies in people miss wiring plug when there change out the plug or miss wire outlet. I have a volt meter that plug in to the 30/15amp x-over & check park voltage and then plug the meter inside the rig to keep a eye on things & this help out dry camping with generator .

the cob webs are starting to disappear...i remember abt the sub panel having to be connected to the main panel.
i remember the one thing the inspector didn't want to see was the earth ground going into the meter base. we had to run it up and conect it to the main panel. don't remember if that was to the housing or ground bus but suspect it was the housing...

i've been giving a lot of thought to putting a 220 dryer circuit in the trailer. so far what has stopped me is some of the campgrounds don't offer 50amp and i sometimes tie to two circuits and doubt that it is 220...two 30 may = 60 amps but not the same as 50 amp 220. if i ever decided to do something like this, i would do a lot of research first.

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