Dash Cam- how to power?

[KyDan]

The current discussion about Dash Cams- Who has one? http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post2235813
Got me thinking... I revised my Christmas list and probably will be getting one!
Wondering about installation- I have a Titan pickup and wonder about how to get power to the cam??
I know I can drape a wire from it down to the 12v socket but need a more permanent- less ugly solution.
I have no idea if there's any power in the overhead but will be researching that. Any clever ideas appreciated!

[kenandterry]

We got one for the motorhome this past summer. I was able to install a 12v outlet off the auxiliary fans located near the top of the windshield in lots of Class A units.
If there’s not enough power cord, you’ll have to run a wire up the A pillar of your vehicle, and install a 12v socket closer to where you want to plug yours in. Of course, you’ll want it controlled by your ignition, or you’ll have to turn it off and on each time.

[rollscanardly]

I've thought about tapping in to the wire for the rear view mirror, but would have to research that to see if it's practical...


Rich

[emm-dee]

Some late model vehicles do have 12 volt available at the rear view mirror. It’s a easy job to remove the A-pillar cover and loosen the headliner. Use a long (24”) tie wrap to fish down at the bottom of the A-pillar, gorilla tape the wire to the wrap and then pull it up. The tie wrap is used because it’s non-conductive, just in case you touch an unseen wire under the dash.

From that point you can either tap into a power source or even run the supplied plug to the 12v outlet

[NJKris]

The Vantrue units have a hardwire kit available. You run the wire from a tap-a-fuse (multiple sizes included) from the fuse box in the passenger compartment (mine was in the passenger footwell kick panel if I recall), and tuck wire under A-post and headliner. Looks great. I put mine on a fuse that shuts off when truck shuts off, but on Corvette, I have it connected to an always hot fuse, so the camera will work in 'parking mode', to record anyone who comes near car while it is parked somewhere.

[extremebike]

Hi

I have not had to remove the headliner on any of the vehicles that I have installed the 12 volt dash cam power cable. I did have to use 1/2 inch foam insulation tubing in order to have the cable stay in the headliner. The A pillar is no issue usually but between the A pillar and dash is a hard place to hide the cable if the A pillar cover is not removed.

As long as the cable is tight at the bottom of the A pillar to an under the dash location the cable will stay in place between the body and the door. Under the dash is a vehicle specific issue. On some I just lay it under the floor mat at the foot well incline. This is just so it does not get stepped on. Then to the 12 volt accessory outlet.

[Bama Rambler]

I don't know which overhead console you have, but there's power up there for the lights that you can tap into.

[67L48]

Yes, hard-wired is the better, more elegant solution. You'll need accessory power and a means to conceal your wiring. Accessory power is switched power -- on when your ignition is on and off when your ignition is off.

Most people will tie into the fuse box (usually at/near the passenger kick panel) for 12 VDC accessory power. To find a good fuse, generally search an automobile-specific forum. For example, the Chevy Silverado forum probably has lots of wiring diagrams and discussions about where to grab accessory power for a Silverado ... and it will be different for an F-150).

Using an add-a-fuse is a convenient way to siphon off power from your identified fuse in your fuse box.

I don't know much about overhead consoles. In previous vehicles, too many of those devices are controlled elsewhere -- auto-dimming circuits and such. No doubt, there is a way to leverage the power up there, but I just am not familiar with it.

The next is to run your wiring up to your cam. Most people will remove their A-pillar to do this. Again, between vehicle-specific forums and YouTube, there should be ample instruction on how to remove any given A-pillar.

Headliners are hit or miss. Again, with vehicle-specific forums and YouTube, you can usually find instruction on how to loosen (or remove) a given headliner. However, it might not be necessary. The power wires are pretty thin and there is often enough play to simply tuck the wire up and under the headliner-to-windshield mating junction.

Many times, you will have to purchase a separate power kit for your cam. Many cams will only come with the cigarette lighter adapter and you'll have to drop another $10-15 on a kit that looks like this:

[NJKris]

My Ford worked fine with a tuck, tuck, tuck. Did not remove a thing.

[SailorSam20500]

I used a kit similar to what 67L48 posted. Was able to tuck the wires in under the headliner and down the a-pillar. I loosened but did not remove the a-pillar trim. Then over to the fuse panel on the passenger side foot well. All but about 2" of the wire is out of site. Visible is right at the camera and a short section that jumps over some trim at the bottom of the a-pillar which is out of sight unless the door is open.

[DieselDrax]

When I bought my Vantrue dash cam it came with a 12v aux port (cig lighter) plug and a long cord. I was able to run it from the center console 12v plug, behind the dash, up behind the A pillar moulding (easy to remove), and above the headliner where the other end came out by the rear view mirror. Really easy and no drilling or other mods required.

[primo20]

Originally Posted by 67L48

Yes, hard-wired is the better, more elegant solution. You'll need accessory power and a means to conceal your wiring. Accessory power is switched power -- on when your ignition is on and off when your ignition is off.

Most people will tie into the fuse box (usually at/near the passenger kick panel) for 12 VDC accessory power. To find a good fuse, generally search an automobile-specific forum. For example, the Chevy Silverado forum probably has lots of wiring diagrams and discussions about where to grab accessory power for a Silverado ... and it will be different for an F-150).

Using an add-a-fuse is a convenient way to siphon off power from your identified fuse in your fuse box.

I don't know much about overhead consoles. In previous vehicles, too many of those devices are controlled elsewhere -- auto-dimming circuits and such. No doubt, there is a way to leverage the power up there, but I just am not familiar with it.

The next is to run your wiring up to your cam. Most people will remove their A-pillar to do this. Again, between vehicle-specific forums and YouTube, there should be ample instruction on how to remove any given A-pillar.

Headliners are hit or miss. Again, with vehicle-specific forums and YouTube, you can usually find instruction on how to loosen (or remove) a given headliner. However, it might not be necessary. The power wires are pretty thin and there is often enough play to simply tuck the wire up and under the headliner-to-windshield mating junction.

Many times, you will have to purchase a separate power kit for your cam. Many cams will only come with the cigarette lighter adapter and you'll have to drop another $10-15 on a kit that looks like this:

Originally Posted by NJKris

My Ford worked fine with a tuck, tuck, tuck. Did not remove a thing.

This...

i bought a thinkware dashcam and highly recommend it - mostly because it was on sale for 179.00 cad from 399. the hardwire kit has additional features the 12 vol AC didn't...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4CkStK45io

[normy41]

I used what my truck manufacture had in place. I mounted my dash cam under my rear view mirror and used the molding covering the headliner over to the pillar mount to get it under the dash and then wired it into my fuse panel

[KyDan]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

I don't know which overhead console you have, but there's power up there for the lights that you can tap into.

I will look into this 1st. I do have push on push off over head lights so this could work. I'm not that interested in having the camera on all the time even when the truck is parked so ON only when ignition on would work for me.

Thanks to all for the A pillar to fuse box suggestions. That might be what I wind up doing depending on what I can find in the overhead "dome/map lights".

[NJKris]

the wire to fuse box is easiest. no wires to pull out, no splicing, no worries of fudging anything up. just plug and play. plug into fuse that powers off with ignition and you're done.

[5picker]

I was able to find 12v power in my overhead console (different truck than the OP) but it was as easy as opening the sunglasses holder and removing one screw for access. Used about a foot of wire... done.