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Old 06-14-2018, 07:35 PM   #1
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Delamination fix experience

We have a 2006 Sunseeker Class C. I love it and rving and do most all the regular coach maintenance trying to keep it in tip top shape. It's almost better than new!

We did have a leak from the screw holes that attach the gutters to the side wall though. The fix was to back out the screws and reseal with rv caulk.

Also had some inside paneling replaced professionally after making sure it was dried out and no mold. The area affected was to either side and below the cab over windows on the sides.

There is some minor delamination as a result. I am considering getting a kit from Camposet, spelling not sure, to fix it.

Anyone have experience with this product? Looks like you have to make some bracing to flatten out the outside wall and then inject a bonding agent through the inside wall to reattach the filon.

I know I have the skills to do this job and it is sold as a doit yourself kit, just looking for input from others who have tackled the job

Thanks
Chris
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Old 06-14-2018, 10:18 PM   #2
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We are in the middle of our delamination fix at the moment. Depending on what resources you already have, buying an entire kit may or may not be advantageous.

Items required are quiet readily available separately, but the purchase of the kit gets you a phone line to discuss your particular circumstance with an expert at the vendor.

We already had a lot of the items that would be in a kit, so we chose to go at it on our own. We bought the two part resin on line and in doing so were able to buy a lot more at a lower price - 1.5 gals was about $75 plus shipping.

We increased our knowledge of what needed to be done by watching YouTube videos…some are very good…some have to be taken with a grain of salt.

We fixed a couple of small areas to try out before we tackled the underside of a cabover, which needed about 6 to 8 square feet reattached.

We are very pleased with the results…

Injecting the resins is a 20 minute job…messy…but straight forward.

The real work is the preparation. We spent two full days setting up scaffolding, making bracing, taping and covering with plastic sheeting.

Not being experts, we dripped a lot of resin and usually had to mix more in the middle of the application, all the while watching the clock in order to get the clamps on. Handling the mixing cups, syringes and spreading paddles was very slippery.

All and all a very doable job…

Joe
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Old 06-14-2018, 10:44 PM   #3
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Thanks Joe. Good info. Confirming my prep work thoughts. Good idea to do a small area first. My cab over underbelly is ok.

I had not looked yet at YouTube. I've found the same issues with YouTube. I usually try to cross check info as a lot is suspect. Will look into it more!
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Old 06-15-2018, 02:26 PM   #4
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I tried googling Camposet and didn't come up with anything in english. I'm assuming you're talking about fibreglass delamination? If you know someone with a vacuum setup, that is really the way to go when it comes to repairing delamination. It sucks the air out (obviously) and forcing atmosphere to apply a lot of even pressure on the panel.

Good luck,
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Old 06-20-2018, 03:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creedmore P Crawley View Post
We are in the middle of our delamination fix at the moment. Depending on what resources you already have, buying an entire kit may or may not be advantageous.

Items required are quiet readily available separately, but the purchase of the kit gets you a phone line to discuss your particular circumstance with an expert at the vendor.

We already had a lot of the items that would be in a kit, so we chose to go at it on our own. We bought the two part resin on line and in doing so were able to buy a lot more at a lower price - 1.5 gals was about $75 plus shipping.

We increased our knowledge of what needed to be done by watching YouTube videos…some are very good…some have to be taken with a grain of salt.

We fixed a couple of small areas to try out before we tackled the underside of a cabover, which needed about 6 to 8 square feet reattached.

We are very pleased with the results…

Injecting the resins is a 20 minute job…messy…but straight forward.

The real work is the preparation. We spent two full days setting up scaffolding, making bracing, taping and covering with plastic sheeting.

Not being experts, we dripped a lot of resin and usually had to mix more in the middle of the application, all the while watching the clock in order to get the clamps on. Handling the mixing cups, syringes and spreading paddles was very slippery.

All and all a very doable job…

Joe
I'm just about to tackle a delam job on the front end of my trailer. Was thinking about getting the Composet kit but it's pretty pricey. Can you please tell me exactly what materials you bought? I'm thinking the part that needs re-gluing is only about 36" x 12" across the very top and 36" x 6" down the one side so I don't think I need a huge amount.
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Old 06-20-2018, 04:10 PM   #6
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the thin epoxy's are used to repair composite wall (foam covered by luan which is then covered by fiberglass) structures that are delaminated. Many front caps and rear walls are "stick" with luan/fiberglass glued to the framing.

Anyway, posters please share epoxy you used with good results.
Thanks!
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Old 06-20-2018, 04:11 PM   #7
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Looks like I may be tackling a delam repair at some point myself, was thinking vacuum would be the best way and wouldn't be too difficult given the relatively small size of the problem.

It looks like there was poor adhesion on the curb-side wall where a couple of the vertical wall studs are. The delam isn't from water damage but from the trailer twisting (There are 3 separate bubbles in a straight line right along one of the studs) and the poor adhesion causing it to pop loose. Sigh.

Some sort of vacuum method to suck it back on after injecting the resin seems like it would make it a simple job, alas...I don't have that stuff or know anyone that does.
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Old 06-20-2018, 05:44 PM   #8
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After watching some YouTube's, I think I am going to delay my delam fix. Mine is on the side walls mostly below and to either side of the windows on the cab over. It is not that noticeable and my plan would need to include removing both driver and passenger side windows to inject the resins and not that I couldn't do it without a little help it just feels like more effort than it is worth.

My delam has been stable for a few years now that the leak has been resolved so unless I get a bunch of energy the project is on hold for me.

I can see that it's a totally doable job and I feel confident I would get good results now that my knowledge has been increased.

Thanks for all the advice Joe!

Chris
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Old 06-20-2018, 06:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyliner View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the thin epoxy's are used to repair composite wall (foam covered by luan which is then covered by fiberglass) structures that are delaminated. Many front caps and rear walls are "stick" with luan/fiberglass glued to the framing.

Anyway, posters please share epoxy you used with good results.
Thanks!
Good point. If this is the case, then what would you do? Would it just be a different adhesive? I feel like there is no backing behind where my delam is occurring and that all that was giving it "structure" was the luan or whatever was actually glued to the fibreglass. You can see my post here for pics.

Another Delamination Thread :(
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Old 06-20-2018, 09:42 PM   #10
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The two part epoxy we used was supplied by Polymer Products, The Epoxy Experts. It was designated as “Max GPE - medium setting” for RV delamination repair. There are all types of resins and applications.

Our purchase was on eBay. The 1.5 gal size was $77.15 with an additional $28.50 for shipping. There are other sizes available.

It came with a 60 CC syringe and a short length of tubing.
We bought additional syringes and tubing separately and tossed them out rather than cleaning.

I know that manufactures often utilize vacuum set ups for clamping and there are many applications that would benefit from such a procedure. However, for a one time set up on an RV, I question its viability….none the less having to maintain vacuum for the 24 hour cure time.

Joe
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