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Old 08-09-2011, 11:39 AM   #11
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Thanks alot for all the imput,,,didn't mean to start a fuss,,,lol,,,thanks
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:40 AM   #12
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I just followed the instructions that came with the marine battery disconnect switch that I recently purchased. Said to install it on the positive terminal wire. Which, being an electronics tech in my previous life - I would have done anyway. BUT it will function just as well on the neg (ground) side.

....VTX-AL
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Old 08-09-2011, 02:08 PM   #13
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ok,,thanks alot,,I was just afraid of sparks .
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Old 08-09-2011, 02:14 PM   #14
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No fuss, we are gently discussing it In a very civilized manner too, which pleases me a lot.

Go ahead and install it on the positive side, well negative if you really want to. Just have one though. Nothing is worse then going to your trailer and finding out that the battery is dead. Especially if you really like your power tongue jack like I do ...no, please do not ask me how I know it sucks to have a dead battery

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ok,,thanks alot,,I was just afraid of sparks .
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Old 08-09-2011, 02:23 PM   #15
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If you cut either battery wire you will shut off the battery system.
No argument there.

Our RVs are pretty much all negative ground.
That simply means pretty much everything in the RV has one lead going
to frame/ground/negative on the battery.

Fuses, switches, 12v circuit breakers that turn things on and off go in the
"hot" lead which in most RVs is gonna be the PLUS side.
(Hot being a wire that will read voltage between itself and ground.)
In my trailer that includes the battery disconnect switch.
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Old 08-09-2011, 03:22 PM   #16
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I've always installed the shutoff as close as possible on the Positive terminal. Usually it was attached to the terminal. Never thought of using the negative side, while it would certainly work that just seems strange and foreign to me. Must be my electrical engineering background...

If I was physically removing the battery I'd do negative then positive to avoid shorting anything with tools. But if it was an attached switch mechanism I just use the hot side.
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Old 08-09-2011, 03:49 PM   #17
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Regarding switch contact arcing when making or breaking the circuit. If there's a load, the switch contacts will still arc regardless of whether you're switching the positive or negative leads. The current potential does not go away.

If you want to test, turn the lights on in your TT and disconnect the negative lead (preferably not at the battery) and touch it a couple of times to make the circuit. You will still have arcing. No way around that.
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Old 08-09-2011, 03:57 PM   #18
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Think of it this way. If you switch the negative, all the circuitry in the TT becomes 12v+ (all the way around to the TT side of the disconnect switch). Is that a problem? Not sure, but I'd rather not do it that way.
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Old 08-09-2011, 04:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Regarding switch contact arcing when making or breaking the circuit. If there's a load, the switch contacts will still arc regardless of whether you're switching the positive or negative leads. The current potential does not go away.

If you want to test, turn the lights on in your TT and disconnect the negative lead (preferably not at the battery) and touch it a couple of times to make the circuit. You will still have arcing. No way around that.
way back in the old days of points in an automobile....they put a condenser (capacitor) across the contacts. that would cushion the interruption. still will get some spark but very little. i'd say try a 0.5uf and see what happens.
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:30 PM   #20
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On my tt. I initially tried the switch on the ground wire, had 2 batteries in parallel , but was never able to make the switching work off , so did the positive. My guess is that there must be a frame ground completing the circuit somewhere.
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