Electric heating element

RickyD929 · 05-21-2017, 02:31 PM

I just replaced the electric heating element, but still not working. No markings on either the old, or the new element, showing which wire goes to which post. Is it possible to have wired it backwards?

youroo · 05-21-2017, 02:33 PM

Possible that you bought a 220V element,our WH take a 110V!

Youroo!!

RickyD929 · 05-21-2017, 02:37 PM

No, it's a 110

**Bama Rambler** · 05-21-2017, 03:25 PM

Heating elements are like incandescent lamps, they don't care which way you connect the power to them. They're just resistors.

I'm assuming that you're talking about the element in the water heater?
If so, did you check the Hi-Limit/Eco thermostat? There's a reset button as well as a fusible (melting) link. Also, have you checked for power at the element?

RickyD929 · 05-21-2017, 03:46 PM

I did hit the reset button, but didn't know anything about a meltable dude link. Would that be behind the reset cover?

bob213 · 05-21-2017, 04:14 PM

Thermostat should look like this(behind black cover). Wire should be intact. Suburban has one for elec. and one for gas.

**wmtire** · 05-21-2017, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickyD929

I just replaced the electric heating element, but still not working. No markings on either the old, or the new element, showing which wire goes to which post. Is it possible to have wired it backwards?

Before you start pulling the thermostat covers off and such, can you give more details on this.

Has the electric element ever worked for you? Have you done any tracing of the 120 volts with a multimeter? Do you have an Atwood or Suburban brand water heater (Forest River uses both)? And a simple one, are you actually currently connected to a form of 120 volt shore power for the electric element to work (Are the microwave lights on is a good indicator of this connection)?

RickyD929 · 05-21-2017, 05:25 PM

Yes, the electric heating element has worked before. Made the mistake of leaving it turned on with water heater empty, so it fried the element. No, have not traced the current. It's a Suburban, both gas and electric. And yes on being currently connected to shore power. Everything else works

**wmtire** · 05-21-2017, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickyD929

Yes, the electric heating element has worked before. Made the mistake of leaving it turned on with water heater empty, so it fried the element. No, have not traced the current. It's a Suburban, both gas and electric. And yes on being currently connected to shore power. Everything else works

Excellent (well the details, I mean)

This post will show you pics of the thermostat/eco hi limits underneath the cover and what to look for, if the fusible link is melted.

When you do burn out the element, this link does sometimes burn out too.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1336404

If the link is melted, for test purposes you can use a jumper wire between the terminals, but this is going to be a live 120 volt circuit if you attempt this, and a shock hazard.

RickyD929 · 05-21-2017, 05:47 PM

Thanks for that info. I'll check that out tomorrow

Sent from my SM-G935V using Forest River Forums mobile app

bob213 · 05-21-2017, 06:19 PM

check to see if bad element threw your circuit breaker.

RickyD929 · 05-21-2017, 06:22 PM

Ok. I'll check that out tomorrow also when I go back to our lot. Thanks

**Flybob** · 05-21-2017, 06:30 PM

Check the socket the WH is plugged into. If it is on a GFCI, when you burned the element, you could trip the GFCI.

RickyD929 · 05-21-2017, 06:31 PM

Ok. Thanks

RickyD929 · 06-01-2017, 03:08 PM

I took the cover off the reset buttons to check the wire link, figuring it would be melted. It was not. I pushed around on the reset button, put everything back together, turned the electric side on, and it started working a little bit. It will get hot enough for dishes, but not for a shower. On gas, it gets very hot. Would a larger thermostat get the water hotter, or could I use both the gas and electric at the same time, to get the water hot enough for a shower, then turn the gas back off, and leave the electric on?

**wmtire** · 06-01-2017, 03:09 PM

What was the wattage on the element you put in? The stock one is 1440 watts.

A lower wattage one will need more time to heat the water up.

**Herk7769** · 06-01-2017, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmtire

What was the wattage on the element you put in? The stock one is 1440 watts.

A lower wattage one will need more time to heat the water up.

Hopefully it was a 120 volt element and not a 220 volt element. The 220 volt element "will work" on 120 volts, but will only produce 1/2 the rated wattage.

He should also check to see if the bypass valve is open.
It should be closed when operating.

DAISY BOYKIN · 06-01-2017, 03:38 PM

Outside inside the WH door is a small 110VAC black switch behind the coils.
Rock this switch back and forth. sometimes the contacts will get dirty.
I have had this problem on my HW heater. Mine got so corroded it burt the switch out. Had to replace.

RickyD929 · 06-01-2017, 03:39 PM

That would be the on/off switch, right?

RickyD929 · 06-04-2017, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmtire

What was the wattage on the element you put in? The stock one is 1440 watts.

A lower wattage one will need more time to heat the water up.

The wattage was 1500 on the one I put back in. But I checked the other element that I had bought in order to have a spare, and I noticed that it's quite a bit shorter than the one I took out. I just went to Home Depot to get the replacements. I notice that the length of the one's that can be ordered from Camping World, is almost 11 inches. The one I have in there now is only 6 inches in length. Now that I think about it, seems like the longer the element in the water, the hotter it should get. Sound right to you?

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