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Old 04-01-2015, 01:15 PM   #1
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Electric level Jack

I have a 2013 V Cross with Electric Leveling Jacks. I just brought the TT home and lowered the Jacks on the rear. I'm not sure if I extended them too far or not. I can't get it to retract now. I tried a few minutes ago and the motor rate for a short period of time and didn't move the levelers and then it quit. Any suggestions on what I should look at?
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Old 04-01-2015, 01:19 PM   #2
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I may be wrong on this, but I believe those are stabilizing jacks. The are designed to be put down just enough to stabilize the RV not level it. If you used them to level the RV you may have over stressed them.
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Old 04-01-2015, 02:33 PM   #3
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I have a 2013 V Cross with Electric Leveling Jacks. I just brought the TT home and lowered the Jacks on the rear. I'm not sure if I extended them too far or not. I can't get it to retract now. I tried a few minutes ago and the motor rate for a short period of time and didn't move the levelers and then it quit. Any suggestions on what I should look at?
Mine are fused.... while doing other work, found fuse behind power center, not in. Lots of places your could be.
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Old 04-01-2015, 02:37 PM   #4
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Yeah those jacks are meant for stabilization not to level!

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Old 04-01-2015, 02:54 PM   #5
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agree, those are stabilizing jacks, NOT leveling jacks.

if you tried to level with them, that's probably why they quit.
hope you didn't ruin one trying to level with it.

didn't your dealer tell you they were stabilizers only?
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Old 04-01-2015, 02:58 PM   #6
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Yeah those jacks are meant for stabilization not to level!

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If you have the sab jacks they are auto reset if you over extend. It should reset within a couple of minutes. Pull your switch to make sure nothing is burnt. Is that what you are talking about or electric/ hydraulic. I don't know which you are talking about.
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:11 PM   #7
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I finally figured it out. I guess the jack quit on overload protection. I tried it later and the motor worked but didn't retract. I then lowered the front jacks down thinking it had to much pressure on the back jacks. My guess ending up fixing the problem. I guess you just have to be careful and don't put too much down torque on them.
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:14 PM   #8
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Well I just noticed your advice after I figured it out. Thanks for the input and no the dealer didn't tell me they were just for stabilizing.
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:16 PM   #9
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I finally figured it out. I guess the jack quit on overload protection. I tried it later and the motor worked but didn't retract. I then lowered the front jacks down thinking it had to much pressure on the back jacks. My guess ending up fixing the problem. I guess you just have to be careful and don't put too much down torque on them.
As posted above all you want them to do is lightly touch the ground, do NOT lift the trailer any.

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Old 04-01-2015, 07:23 PM   #10
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As posted above all you want them to do is lightly touch the ground, do NOT lift the trailer any.
Especially if you don't reinforce the legs. The stock ones are made with much too light of wt material to support much wt.

As I've said before, with my 2 sets with reinforced legs and the landing jacks, I think I could (haven't tried) lift the wheels off the ground with enough jockeying around with them.
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:01 PM   #11
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well my apologies to Lippert and this forum. after having read this thread and visiting the Lippert site, I've learned these are indeed stabilizers and not the levelers I had assumed. never mind what led me to believe otherwise. a good idea really, considering one will have to drive onto blocking or levelers of some sort, thereby reducing stress on the frame and even allowing the entry door and slides to function properly. i believe its best to level side to side at the tires on todays frames and really just use these as Lippert intended...
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:16 PM   #12
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well my apologies to Lippert and this forum. after having read this thread and visiting the Lippert site, I've learned these are indeed stabilizers and not the levelers I had assumed. never mind what led me to believe otherwise. a good idea really, considering one will have to drive onto blocking or levelers of some sort, thereby reducing stress on the frame and even allowing the entry door and slides to function properly. i believe its best to level side to side at the tires on todays frames and really just use these as Lippert intended...
Nobody knows everything about everything, so don't feel bad. Even those that do know most, aren't believed.... if it's in black/white...gott'a be true. Ran into a post today where 2 factory manuals contradicted each other.
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Old 04-03-2015, 07:46 AM   #13
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Nobody knows everything about everything, so don't feel bad. Even those that do know most, aren't believed.... if it's in black/white...gott'a be true. Ran into a post today where 2 factory manuals contradicted each other.
OC manual and Turbs manual? [emoji12]
Carry on.


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Old 04-03-2015, 09:29 AM   #14
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eatin a little crow, though hard on the constitution, is good for the soul. i did a service call once. fought the entry door to get it open. said to myself "wait a minute" and backed up. guy had the entire trailer suspended with a railroad tie at each end, axles a danglin'. full deck in the front obscured it. but, the 2" drop at the pittsburg line in the middle gave it away...extreme leveling...no gray area here...man left alone to his own devices...a dangerous thing
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:03 AM   #15
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OC manual and Turbs manual? [emoji12]
Carry on.


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Is that possible?? It was by Alco , on whats the correct way to pack wheel bearings....spin wheels or not necessary. When it warms up here, I'm going to fab a jig to be able to simulate, with hub removed, where and how the inner bearing gets it lube....with/or with-out spinning wheel. I contend you don't.
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:16 AM   #16
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Is that possible?? It was by Alco , on whats the correct way to pack wheel bearings....spin wheels or not necessary. When it warms up here, I'm going to fab a jig to be able to simulate, with hub removed, where and how the inner bearing gets it lube....with/or with-out spinning wheel. I contend you don't.
I don't think it really matters one way or the other, but spinning will get the air out a little quicker and help insure the hub cavity is full.
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:18 AM   #17
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I don't think it really matters one way or the other, but spinning will get the air out a little quicker and help insure the hub cavity is full.
10/4!
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:18 PM   #18
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speaking of spinning wheels...my "spicey man go" thread got moved to "at the cookout"...now it will never get read!
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Old 04-03-2015, 11:26 PM   #19
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speaking of spinning wheels...my "spicey man go" thread got moved to "at the cookout"...now it will never get read!
alas...the humor in it was pretty obscure. making reference to the spicy exchange in the satellite thread by our beloved Turbs. breakin' it down like MC Hammer....carry on...
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