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Old 06-24-2014, 11:33 AM   #1
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Electric rear stabilizer jacks - stop immediately

My rear jacks worked on Friday and Saturday but stopped working on Sunday. I'm trying to lower my electric rear stabilizer jacks. They make noise like they're going to work, lurch and then stop. The switch is then dead for some period of time (I'm assuming a fuse is automatically resetting). The jacks aren't lowering at all.

I've verified that the t-bolts on my JT StrongArms knockoffs are not tight.

I have this manual that wmtire posted a long while ago:
http://manuals.heartlandowners.org/E...lizer_Jack.pdf

I'm going to go through the troubleshooting steps and see what I can see. I'm also thinking of disconnecting my JT's from the electric stabilizers to see if they're binding things up in some way.

I'm open to other ideas.
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:37 AM   #2
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Try to move them manually first and electric again..... Also most likey you have auto-rest mini-breaker behind wall where your switch....(picture form Herk library)
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Old 06-24-2014, 02:52 PM   #3
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Try to move them manually first and electric again..... Also most likey you have auto-rest mini-breaker behind wall where your switch....(picture form Herk library)
I'm willing to bet dollars to donuts that we have that exact setup. The auto-reset breaker seems to be exactly what is happening. My question is "why"/"what's binding it"? (It's worked flawlessly since new in July 2012.)

I'll try them manually.
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Old 06-24-2014, 02:55 PM   #4
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It might just be "jammed" little overtravel, too long on the push button......you'll see..and I would lubricate it again even if you have done in a few months ago.
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Old 06-24-2014, 02:56 PM   #5
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Durr... lubricate it? I haven't....
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:00 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
Durr... lubricate it? I haven't....
Ah Hah! Ever heard of the Tin Man?
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:15 PM   #7
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I know in the service manual it says not to lubricate components, but I do and use a dry silicone lubricant as posted below.

Blaster 11 oz. Dry Lube Silicone Lubricant-16-SL at The Home Depot
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:19 PM   #8
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Hey Fonz, what's up with that? The year is over half gone!
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:25 PM   #9
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Actually forgot to update (done). Thanks. Leaving for my next trip on July 7th.....
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:27 PM   #10
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:32 PM   #11
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If you move manually it is recommended to disconnect (the power) to avoid generating voltage back through the system. Ours 'stopped' at the end of our past trip. We have a remote and were able to retract using it which suggests our switch. We've had the switches replaced previously; on our TT (Wildwood 26TBSS) they're poorly located and open to the elements.
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:42 PM   #12
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Thanks, I think I noticed that in the manual. I'll see if I have a breaker for them. Would switching that "off" be good enough?
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:47 PM   #13
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My front jacks stuck 1 time in the up position. I was already (I'll say in a heated moment ) and gave it a little shove with my foot and it started working and has worked ever since.

I'm also a mechanical genius as well!
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:48 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
Thanks, I think I noticed that in the manual. I'll see if I have a breaker for them. Would switching that "off" be good enough?
Take my word for it, you won't generate enough voltage to back feed in the system and affect anything. But if you want to make sure, you should have a fuse in your dc panel that is for your stab jacks and can remove. Also remember your switch is already open.
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:51 PM   #15
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My front jacks stuck 1 time in the up position. I was already (I'll say in a heated moment ) and gave it a little shove with my foot and it started working and has worked ever since.

I'm also a mechanical genius as well!
(cough) I (ahem) tried gently pushing down while hitting the switch. (cough)

My wife's first instinct was to offer to push down while I hit the switch.

I'm not ready to force it... yet.
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:52 PM   #16
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Take my word for it, you won't generate enough voltage to back feed in the system and affect anything. But if you want to make sure, you should have a fuse in your dc panel that is for your stab jacks and can remove. Also remember your switch is already open.
Ahh, the DC panel with fuses that aren't correctly labeled. Sweet, I'll find that one.

Ok, I was also thinking of just undoing one of the wires at the motor- I will look at it come 5pm once I'm done workin'.
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:53 PM   #17
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You should use your manual device first.....
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:54 PM   #18
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Yeah, I can see you're really working!
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:55 PM   #19
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Yeah, I can see you're really working!
Shhhh.

Don't speak.

It makes you unattractive.

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Old 06-24-2014, 03:58 PM   #20
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Give it a crank up and down with the hand crank you should know if it's in the stab or the motor assembly.
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