Electrical problems

[dustman_stx]

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

I have one that is nothing like them. It is a ratcheting type and can't be released till it is crimped correctly.

Pic? Notice I did say most common, though. I'm sure there are some tools out there I haven't seen. Coax and Pex tools are commonly made with a ratcheting system that puts the proper crimp.... But there is also specificity to the size of the connection. Not sure how a ratcheting tool would even be able to be accurate with a crimp cap as you could be capping various numbers of wires of varying sizes-i.e., the seat depth would vary.

[A32Deuce]

I dont know the inner workings of it but it crimps any normal crimp you would use in a 12 volt system. I use it for rewiring custom built cars. You will break the wire before pulling the splice apart. I loaned to a friend to put a radio in and he thought he broke it cause it didn't release. After using it when I told him how it works, he went out and bought one.

[Jayhawker]

Originally Posted by dustman_stx

I'll admit that I've never seen that tool or crimp connector. I don't think you'll ever encounter one in an RV, and I've never seen one used in any residential or commercial wiring- and I've seen a good bit. Where would one encounter those being commonly used?

The Buchanan tool and crimp collar came after the solder joints first used to connect wires. I started the electrical trade in 1970 after I got out of the Navy, and have never run across them either. Electric wire connectors (twist locks) were filed in 1923 and patented in 1926.

[dustman_stx]

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

I dont know the inner workings of it but it crimps any normal crimp you would use in a 12 volt system. I use it for rewiring custom built cars. You will break the wire before pulling the splice apart. I loaned to a friend to put a radio in and he thought he broke it cause it didn't release. After using it when I told him how it works, he went out and bought one.

I suppose it could have a set amount of pressure it exerts regardless of seat depth. If you could post a pic or give me the information on what it is I'd appreciate it. Always "need" a new tool, you know.

[A32Deuce]

Its in the RV now and not close by. That is how it works. Regardless of the size connector or how many wires, it crimps and releases at a set point.

[A32Deuce]

Multi gauge ratcheting crimp tool. Look on Amazon for many different types. I have had mine so long, I don't remember the brand but love how it works.

[Pococj]

Used a couple kajillion of those crimp caps aboard ship. When properly crimped (correct tool) they'll hold anything to anything, and if it holds aboard a tin can riding out a hurricane, it'll hold anywhere. If I caught my sailors using wire nuts they were in for some "extra military instruction". While working in a Navy shipyard our crimp tools were issued and had a "calibration" sticker affixed. Prior to issue they were tested and the crimp was miked.

All that said, I use wire nuts with solid wire because I don't have the expensive ratcheting crimp tool. I have used Thomas & Betts tools and as long as the correct version is used the caps will work on solid wire.

[frankraney]

Originally Posted by Jake733

Suddenly the breaker for our water heater started tripping on our under 2yrs. old RKS 251 travel trailer. It's in for repair at the moment and the heater is fine. The engineer informs me that there are shorts on more than one circuit, including this one. Waiting for a report from them today or tomorrow on what's causing the fault. One thing that surprised me though is that the 120 circuit connections are made with these things, not' twist-on' maurettes. There's nothing more certain in my mind that I certainly would never consider connections on the 120 system in a house. Is this normal to fit 120 circuits with these frail pieces of aluminum?

Best way to tell if something is wrong is to put a clamp on ammeter on the black (hot) wire. If it has the same current as the breaker rating, it will trip....

You could have a grounded element.... Which can be checked with an ohm meter.

https://dengarden.com/appliances/Troubleshooting-Electric-Water-Heaters

The fitting is ok, as long as it is made for copper if it is copper wire, and crimped with the proper size tool.

[B and B]

Originally Posted by Jayhawker

One of the popular crimp on tools used in the electrical trade. High leverage Thomas & Betts Stak-On pliers.

That is all I use. my pliers from 1966 still. I have newer models but same design. Nothing else works properly.

[dustman_stx]

Originally Posted by Pococj

Used a couple kajillion of those crimp caps aboard ship. When properly crimped (correct tool) they'll hold anything to anything, and if it holds aboard a tin can riding out a hurricane, it'll hold anywhere. If I caught my sailors using wire nuts they were in for some "extra military instruction". While working in a Navy shipyard our crimp tools were issued and had a "calibration" sticker affixed. Prior to issue they were tested and the crimp was miked.

All that said, I use wire nuts with solid wire because I don't have the expensive ratcheting crimp tool. I have used Thomas & Betts tools and as long as the correct version is used the caps will work on solid wire.

Which of "those" crimp caps? The ones shown in post #1 or the ones in post #33?

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by Jayhawker

One of the popular crimp on tools used in the electrical trade. High leverage Thomas & Betts Stak-On pliers.

X2 plus the Kleins... I have several types of these crimpers. Ratcheting etc.. they all have their place.

FWIW I love crimp-on wire nuts(as I call them) and have never seen an aluminum one or an aluminum threaded wire nut(many plastic threaded) or aluminium screws in breakers(cage? yes). The crimp on wire nuts I use are usually on 18-22 ga stat wires and 24VAC and sometimes both solid...if that matters, but they are small OD wire and prolly act as stranded. I really don't like screw-on wire nuts... I don't fully trust them. Do I use them? When I cannot get around it. I have had trouble with flat-head screws on breakers and contactors(prolly using wrong sized Chinese screw driver). YMMV

I am(as if any sane person questioned it) NOT an electrician/engineer/journeyman or any form of. The only training I have is a certificate in HVAC and 35 yrs of practice along with some formal training from a few wiring manufacturers(Cooper/Eaton, Belden Industrial, etc..)

[danking49]

Not, it's not normal to use crimped connectors for 120vac wiring; but there is no normal in the RV manufacturing world; so it's not suprising to see a hack like that. It is what it is. I would go through the whole rig and replace as necessary. Fixing manufacturing errors in RV's is normal at the dealer and owner levels unfortunately.

[bob213]

So now that we know about every crimp tool available, did I miss the solution to the op's problem?

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by bob213

So now that we know about every crimp tool available, did I miss the solution to the op's problem?

Yes, recrimp it, the factory was in a hurry, there's nothing wrong with using a cap. Other then that just buy a wire nut. Is what I got out of it.

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by bob213

So now that we know about every crimp tool available, did I miss the solution to the op's problem?

Lol. That’s funny. I think the resolution was passed on in post 43

[skipatroller]

These are used in locations with vibration, it looks like a traditional wire nut but in reality they are to be crimped. It doesn't look like this was crimped hard enough. In the industry I'm in they are used all the time with great success, hydraulic pumps with electric motors and controls.