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08-29-2011, 07:59 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 46
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Emergency Trailer Brake cable-
Hey Forum...
First off.. a little appreciation to all those who have helped thousand of us kick start our RV adventures... Im a newbie and will gladly reciprocate with advice as my experience grows but until then, hanks in advance for your help.
So the question is in regards to the aircraft cable that runs from the front of the hitch to a simple plug switch near the front of the trailer that (I believe) helps to activate your brakes in an emergency separation. I noticed yesterday that my cable had sheared off somehow (I believe from dragging on the ground???)... YIKES!
Well I need to replace it and while I know where it connects to the little plastic plug / switch, Im not exactly sure where it connected in the front. I believe it was tied into a loop and connected / interwoven through one of the safety chains and then looped along with one of the safety chain clips that connect to the tow vehicle on either the left or right of the actual hitch.
Do I have this correct? Seems like a simple fix with AC cable and a couple of crimp clips...
Just want to do it right, since it's an important safety feature.
Thanks again for any responses...
Patrick
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08-29-2011, 08:01 PM
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#2
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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your correct ! i had mine looped through my chain hook .
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08-29-2011, 08:07 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 122
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08-29-2011, 08:15 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 46
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Thanks Guys
Appreciate the advice....
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08-29-2011, 08:43 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: south Kansas City area
Posts: 1,298
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Mine did the same thing but I had enough of the cable to make a new loop, bought a crimp ferrule at the hardware store and I slip it over the ball before lowering the trailer for final hookup. There appears to be enough space where the contact point of the hitch and ball won't pinch the cable.
__________________
Randy and Patty
2015 Sabre 33 CKTS-6 Platinum Edition
Reese 16K Slider hitch
2015 GMC Sierra 3500HD diesel dually
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08-29-2011, 08:53 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 508
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I have one of the fastway cables mentioned above and love it. The dealer put in on free of charge (both for the cable and labor) since we were good customers so not sure how it was actually attached. So much easier to deal with than the old wire cable!
__________________
Tom
2004 Fleetwood Providence 38U
currently not towing a toad
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08-29-2011, 09:14 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 46
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new style coiled wire safety
I think Im going to take the advice above for this weekend and just recrimp with new ferrule until I can purchase one of those "high tech" coiled cable deals...
Thanks again for all your replies to the original posting.
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08-30-2011, 12:41 AM
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#8
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Dismember
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Orcutt, California
Posts: 32
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I have an excessively long breakaway cable. The way I keep it from dragging on the ground is to give it four to five twists before connecting it. The twists cause the breakaway cable to coil up upon itself. It then lays nicely atop the safety chains with little chance to droop to the ground. Consider it a poor-man's Fastway cable.
__________________
2012 Wildwood 24TBSS
2x80W Solar Panels, Morningstar MPPT Controller, Xantrex LinkLite Battery Monitor, Xantrex ProWatt 2000 Inverter
2010 Toyota Tundra DoubleCab 5.7L 4X4
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08-30-2011, 09:05 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Beaver, PA
Posts: 911
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Remember to attach the end to the TV, NOT the chain hook. If the hook comes off the TV the brake cable will fall off too - and not activate the brakes as it should in such a situation. I picked up a carribiner at lowes like the link shows for the coiled wire.
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Chris, Wills (16) Evie (13) & Toby our collie (6)
2011 Grey Wolf 28BH
2013 Chevy K1500 Crew w/ Reese StraitLine Dual Cam
Nights camped 2011: 11 2012: 18 2013: 12 2014: 12 2015: 13 2016: 56 2017: 8+
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08-30-2011, 10:18 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 46
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Thanks
understanding the details, probably makes better sense to connect to some part of the TV (not ball of hitch b/c it too, although highly unprobably, can become separated from TV).
Looking to connect into the actual part where safety cables connect underneath TV (steel). problem is it will take a little longer to do since 95% of that available space inside the opening in that plate is taken up with the safety chain hook.
I'll find a way... im sure...
Thanks for all the feedback, suggestions. much appreciated
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08-31-2011, 01:47 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prof_fate
Remember to attach the end to the TV, NOT the chain hook. If the hook comes off the TV the brake cable will fall off too - and not activate the brakes as it should in such a situation. I picked up a carribiner at lowes like the link shows for the coiled wire.
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To add to this, the breakaway cable should also be shorter than the chains, thus if the trailer ever leaves the ball, the breakaway will activate the brakes BEFORE the chains fail, a long cable is counterintuitive and will only activate if the ball disconnects and both chains fail. Be careful with the coil type cables as they appear to be connected correctly when in reality they may be too long.
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08-31-2011, 04:08 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyrotor
To add to this, the breakaway cable should also be shorter than the chains, thus if the trailer ever leaves the ball, the breakaway will activate the brakes BEFORE the chains fail, a long cable is counterintuitive and will only activate if the ball disconnects and both chains fail. Be careful with the coil type cables as they appear to be connected correctly when in reality they may be too long.
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I agree 100%! Youroo!!
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