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Old 02-12-2018, 06:56 PM   #1
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Equalizer Stabi-Lite Class C stabilizers

I'm looking for anyone with experience with the Equalizer Stabi-Lite electric motor stabilizer jacks.

https://equalizersystems.com/product...-ford-chassis/

I'm looking for something better than the Valterra unit I am using now:
Universal RV Stabilizer - Valterra 020106 - Stabilizing Jacks - Camping World

This looks like a good medium ground between manual jacks and a full up leveling system like a bigfoot for my Class C.
Looking for easy set-up and take-down that takes out the shaking with people walking in the coach.
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:07 AM   #2
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take a look at steadfast I have them installed on my rig and its rock solid. here's a link
SteadyFast: 5th Wheel and RV Trailer Stabilizer
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:55 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaDog View Post
take a look at steadfast I have them installed on my rig and its rock solid. here's a link
SteadyFast: 5th Wheel and RV Trailer Stabilizer
That looks like it will not work on a Class C MH and it works with the existing stabilizers which I do not have. It looks like a good product but not what I am looking for...thanks for the link.
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:43 AM   #4
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Have them, use them, very happy. Keep in mind, unless you were to unload the suspension on all 4 corners, there is still some movement, but these are a good compromise to levelers.

There is a big difference between no stabilizers and using these. You can adjust how much force is used, individually, so I have the slide side a little stronger than the otjer side, as DW likes to sleep slightly head side high.
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Old 02-13-2018, 01:11 PM   #5
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Thanks for the feedback. It just looks so easy and automatic to use also. Did you have yours installed or DIY?
How do you figure out what strength setting to put on the controller?
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Old 02-13-2018, 01:21 PM   #6
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DIY. But, I was a pro mechanic starting at age 14... I would say if you own tools, and are a little familiar with 12v auto electrics, you can do it yourself. The instructions were good, with reference to the needed amps for each setting. Mine are at 7 and 6, but I have a relatively light MH. I tried higher settings, but there was no perceptible (to DW) difference in support.

The electrical is what makes you think. I added a separate circuit for power, a push button switch (the supplied one) in my power bay to retract, and put the interior switch (supplied) in my stock switch panel. There is a red light (included) which lights whenever the stabilizers are down. If me or my adult son were not the only drivers, I probably would add a link to the E brake, to retract when the ebrake is not engaged. Again, the instructions covered most options for the electrics...
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Old 02-13-2018, 01:38 PM   #7
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It looked like a pretty easy install with no drilling or welding. I've got the electrical covered since I used to be a electrical tech/engr. I've looked over the manuals and I'm just about to pull the trigger and buy it.

I'm just trolling for a few more first hand reviews of them!
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Old 02-13-2018, 01:42 PM   #8
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I knew we needed something, and I was not looking for auto level, nor scissors jacks. The videos on the mfg site were all I needed.

When we have DD with us, in the cab over, I can slightly feel her get up and down. DD says she does not feel us move around much, and we never wake her up by moving...
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Old 02-13-2018, 02:06 PM   #9
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I have two of those portable Valterra stabilizers with the straps that I put on the back bumper. I have a link to them above. It helps a lot but still have movement issues in the back of the coach.

If you are on the jon (in back) and someone is walking around the bed or getting in and out (bed is also in back) you feel like you're in an airline or train bathroom! Same for if you are in bed and some gets up to use the jon.

Just looking for a way to make that better plus the automatic part looks good.
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Old 02-13-2018, 02:26 PM   #10
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We have the same model, but 2016... You will not be disappointed, unless you are looking for zero movement, which can never be achieved.

Our settings unload the rear suspension about an inch. When we want to level, I block the front to back either at 0, or slightly nose high (given the blocks are an inch high per). I set side to side as close to 0, or slightly driver side high. When the stabilizers are used, this gets us to level front to back, or slightly higher in back (so water drains to the front), and so driver side is higher, so bed is head high. Water drains to RF, which is fine with us, as it is far enough away from door. We do not want water in the RR, but any of the other three corners would be fine.

It takes a LARGE amount of effort inside, to shake it enough to be noticeable outside. You can, if you try, still sense a small amount inside with normal movements, but privacy of movement in each bed is excellent, and you don't notice anything while sitting.

With our setup, and with a memory foam bed topper, I can in and out of bed without waking DW (I sleep at the back).

The stabilizers end up about a foot or so in front of the rear wheels, which is better overall support than the bumper area. I also have added heavier anti roll bars, which also help a noticeably good amount when static, and a couple of days ago, changed to Koni FSD shocks in the rear, which likely help when static in some small amount too.
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Old 02-24-2018, 04:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dp26 View Post
DIY. But, I was a pro mechanic starting at age 14... I would say if you own tools, and are a little familiar with 12v auto electrics, you can do it yourself. The instructions were good, with reference to the needed amps for each setting. Mine are at 7 and 6, but I have a relatively light MH. I tried higher settings, but there was no perceptible (to DW) difference in support.

The electrical is what makes you think. I added a separate circuit for power, a push button switch (the supplied one) in my power bay to retract, and put the interior switch (supplied) in my stock switch panel. There is a red light (included) which lights whenever the stabilizers are down. If me or my adult son were not the only drivers, I probably would add a link to the E brake, to retract when the ebrake is not engaged. Again, the instructions covered most options for the electrics...
I can move the electrical harness but there are some rigid lines on the driver side. I think they are fuel lines. Do you think I can just take those out of the bracket and route them around the clamps?Click image for larger version

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Old 02-24-2018, 05:08 PM   #12
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I did.
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Old 02-24-2018, 05:15 PM   #13
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Thanks. The passenger side is in and torqued. These fuel lines made me pause. I had seen the electrical harness and figured "no problem". Didn't see these until I was down under there. I guess I'll get back under there and finish up.

Thanks again!
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Old 03-05-2018, 12:03 PM   #14
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unie01,
I just installed mine last weekend. VERY easy installation. Easy one switch stabilizers that take the wiggle out of the MH. They make clamp on stabilizer jacks for E450/350 Ford chassis and also the Sprint chassis. Nice to not have to go outside and crank anything down.
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