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Old 08-30-2011, 07:19 PM   #11
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: fallbrook, CA
Posts: 32
i noticed a soft spot area in my '08-Rockwood 1809.

unfortunately, it's at the entrance area, the most used area of the coach.

upon further inspection i can plainly see that there is no "under-belly". that is, there is complete & open access to the problem area.

the softness occurs in an area "between the joists". and, further, it's on the seam where two 4' x 8' plywood floor sheets (or possibly oriented strand board) connect.

i suspect that the floor sheets are a tongue & groove product.
however, the integrity of the floor sheet has become more flexible over time.

my goal is to design & build a main (side to side) supporting sheet 24" wide by 8' long by 5/8" thick.
then create one (side to side) 8' (+/-) joist made from "Trex" that will support the soft/sagging area.

then will paint black so it looks OEM.

will try to post pictures when complete.

interesting that the only thing that separates the inner floor from the ground is a thin sheet of plywood (or strand board).
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Old 08-30-2011, 07:41 PM   #12
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by avocadoman1 View Post
i noticed a soft spot area in my '08-Rockwood 1809.

unfortunately, it's at the entrance area, the most used area of the coach.

upon further inspection i can plainly see that there is no "under-belly". that is, there is complete & open access to the problem area.

the softness occurs in an area "between the joists". and, further, it's on the seam where two 4' x 8' plywood floor sheets (or possibly oriented strand board) connect.

i suspect that the floor sheets are a tongue & groove product.
however, the integrity of the floor sheet has become more flexible over time.

my goal is to design & build a main (side to side) supporting sheet 24" wide by 8' long by 5/8" thick.
then create one (side to side) 8' (+/-) joist made from "Trex" that will support the soft/sagging area.

then will paint black so it looks OEM.

will try to post pictures when complete.

interesting that the only thing that separates the inner floor from the ground is a thin sheet of plywood (or strand board).
My camper has a "hard" under belly front to rear.
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:11 PM   #13
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 16
I should have taken pictures, sorry.

This wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.

I removed the "cardboard" underbelly by removing the trim screws and staples. The floor was soft around the in floor heat register. It is only very thin plywood over about 2-3" of foam insulation. There was NO support in this area.

I cut a 3/4" piece of plywood about 24"X24", then cut out a 3"X11" slot for the heat vent/register.

I then mounted 2 pressure treated 2"X6" from side to side on either side of the register. This left about 1" gap between top of new "joists" and bottom of foam floor insulation.

I mounted the joists to the side frame rails with self tapping screws. Then I slid the plywood between the floor and top of joists and run screws from joists to plywood.

I then remounted the floor register and applied some expanding insulation to seal the vent.

I then put the underbelly back into place.

Total time was about 2 hours work.

BTW: I found why my front two heat vents had no heat.

Both of the flex ducts had gotten caught in the slide mechanism and ripped apart. One duct was routed along the driver's side and the slide would catch it every time.

I took down the underbelly between the axles, re-routed the duct to the passenger side. I spliced new flex duct in and attached both ducts to the passenger side frame rail so they wouldn't vibrate over to the slide rails again.

I had to notch the new "floor joists" to allow both of the ducts to pass over.

Floor now is SOLID as a rock and now I have heat in the front.

VERY satisfying doing this work myself and knowing it was done right.

VERY disappointed in the craftmanship of the floor supports and lack of forethought of running the ducts.
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