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Old 03-01-2010, 05:04 PM   #1
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Ford F53 Chassis Electrical Question

Q#1 In the Passenger compartment fuse panel there are fuse locations that are described as "body buillder" accessory feed; battery (+12V) supplyl; radio feed. What is meant by the phrase "body builder"? Q#2 In the Power Distribution box in the engine compartment, how would one go about hooking into fuse location #13 - the trailer tow electric brake controller feed?
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Old 03-01-2010, 06:20 PM   #2
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Well, you didn't say what year, and yes it may matter. I would assume that "bodybuilder" would go on to the motor home fuse panel for 12 volt lights, etc. I also question why you want to tap in to the brake controller fuse, as this should feed the 12 volts to a brake controller. There may be a connector under the dash to plug a brake controller in to. For an owners' manual, go here:

http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...ageid=&gutsid=

They do have a manual for the motorhome F53 chassis.
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:28 PM   #3
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Windrider...2010 Georgetown on a 2009 Ford F53 Chassis. Need a switched circuit, and do not need the brake controller circuit.
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Old 03-01-2010, 10:49 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by betndavrv2 View Post
Windrider...2010 Georgetown on a 2009 Ford F53 Chassis. Need a switched circuit, and do not need the brake controller circuit.
Did ya get the horns yet????? Do you have an air compressor at home? Put a duster gun on a hose and blow some air though them so you can hear them.

I still haven't come up with a solution for you on the switched 12volt circuit Betndavrv2. Let me know if you need anything, PM me if you like.
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:12 AM   #5
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If you find the plug for the brake controller under the dash, that would be the circuit I would use for the brake controller you have, You should be able to get the matching plug from Ford, and wire it up to your brake controller. All the pick-uptrucks with a towing package came with the plug/harness combination. Probably the same harness for the motor home chassis. I don't think it is switched, in case of major electrical failure at the switch, you would still have trailer brakes. Your brake controller should draw little or nothing when not in use. Hope this helps.

If you check the manual, it should give location of the brake controller harness.
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:19 AM   #6
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If you find the plug for the brake controller under the dash, that would be the circuit I would use for the brake controller you have, You should be able to get the matching plug from Ford, and wire it up to your brake controller. All the pick-uptrucks with a towing package came with the plug/harness combination. Probably the same harness for the motor home chassis. I don't think it is switched, in case of major electrical failure at the switch, you would still have trailer brakes. Your brake controller should draw little or nothing when not in use. Hope this helps.

If you check the manual, it should give location of the brake controller harness.
Windrider, he is trying to find a switched +12 volt circuit for installing a set of air horns under the front grill. I suggested there could be one included with the brake controller wiring harness but wasn't sure. I used my power window circuit but he doesn't have that. The 12 volt power ports on our rigs are both wired straight to power (not switched). Without getting my head under the dash or into the front of mine I am at a loss as to where to find switched power. I wished the manufacturers would provide a couple of fuse protected switched and un switched circuits for addition of accessories like horns, lights, etc.

Any ideas?
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:58 AM   #7
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OK, thanks, now we get to the real question, "Where can I tap in to a switched 12 volt power source?" The easiest way I can think of and works for sure is the under dash fuse for the heater blower, generally 30 amp, which I think is a green one if blade type. They make taps for these fuses which can be bought at most auto supply places. You remove the fuse, insert the tap, which will have an extra lug on it, replace the fuse, and add your circuit to the extra lug. May have to check a car stereo shop also, whichever is closer. I don't understand why a switched circuit for a horn, and if this is going to be your only horn, would fail State Inspection by me, as I check horn operation with the key off. Not all techs do this. Horn and brake lights must operate "key off".
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:00 PM   #8
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I don't understand why a switched circuit for a horn, and if this is going to be your only horn, would fail State Inspection by me, as I check horn operation with the key off.
Thanks Windrider, I didn't consider that myself but it's a good idea. The horns he is adding are air horns like I put on my rig. They use a small air compressor and air tank to work them. As the system will leak down over a period of time of you don't want the compressor running all the time, thus the switched cirucit. The air solenoid to actuate the horns is just tapped into the factory horns so they work off of the horn button on the wheel. If there is no air in the system then the factory horns can still be heard.

There ya go Betndarv. Look for the heater blower circuit.
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:02 PM   #9
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Thanks windrider and nwjeeper....Horns arrived today, hopefully will have these up and working before leaving the FL Keys at the end of the month. Thanks again.
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:59 PM   #10
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I hope you are installing a relay to power the compressor, and know how to wire it in. If not, let me know, and I'll try to get a diagram.
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