Fridge not cooling

[5picker]

Originally Posted by michael.mcilrath

Okay so I left the battery on and plugged into 110 and the fridge still does not cool. Same temp sitting at 78

Did you ever check to see if the refrigerator was plugged in and/or had 120v?

Please let us know what the dealer finds and shame on them for not making sure it works.

[michael.mcilrath]

I think I started multiple treads and I really thought I was replying as people were suggesting and helping with my issue. This is all new to me and even this forum. Thank you for your help everyone.

[Skyliner]

So, the OP bought a RV without testing the fridge? All it takes is about as little as 30-60 minutes of operation off level and your fridge may be TOAST.

Don't worry, it'll be about $700 plus labor to replace the cooling unit.

Sorry, I get frustrated when I run into people who have RV problems and then mention that the dealer who sold the RV to them did the PDI.

Hopefully it is something simple like a control board or a bad heater. Good luck.

If it is the cooling unit, please get a new one and not a refurbished one. Refurbished units only repair damaged sections and don't last very long. If you plan on keeping it, there are vendors who sell new units with lifetime warranties.

[Herk7769]

It can take 8 hours or more to cool an evaporative fridge.

You can accelerate the cool down by putting ice in the freezer and fridge.

Running it on propane will cool it faster than electric.

You can eliminate a lot of cooling issues running on gas since you can hear it light when it calls for cold. If it works on gas, then switch back to Auto and see it it maintains temperature.

[michael.mcilrath]

Originally Posted by Skyliner

So, the OP bought a RV without testing the fridge? All it takes is about as little as 30-60 minutes of operation off level and your fridge may be TOAST.

Don't worry, it'll be about $700 plus labor to replace the cooling unit.

Sorry, I get frustrated when I run into people who have RV problems and then mention that the dealer who sold the RV to them did the PDI.

Hopefully it is something simple like a control board or a bad heater. Good luck.

If it is the cooling unit, please get a new one and not a refurbished one. Refurbished units only repair damaged sections and don't last very long. If you plan on keeping it, there are vendors who sell new units with lifetime warranties.

I did my walk though on the rv and the only thing that was running was the rv. I should have known better and had them running it before I got there. Being a new 2018, the assumption bit me in the but and not only on the AC. I’m dropping it off to the dealer today with a list of things to hopefully fix.

[270S]

Originally Posted by Skyliner

So, the OP bought a RV without testing the fridge? All it takes is about as little as 30-60 minutes of operation off level and your fridge may be TOAST.

Ok, what is the definition of off level? How many degrees. I turn my refer on for initial cool down in my driveway. It has a front to rear drop of apx 5 degrees and maybe 2-3 pax to driver side. Is that "terrible" and cause trouble some have mentioned? Or does it need to be exaggerated like in a steep hill or slope of 15-25 degrees or more?

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by 270S

Ok, what is the definition of off level? How many degrees. I turn my refer on for initial cool down in my driveway. It has a front to rear drop of apx 5 degrees and maybe 2-3 pax to driver side. Is that "terrible" and cause trouble some have mentioned? Or does it need to be exaggerated like in a steep hill or slope of 15-25 degrees or more?

I read this BS about having to be level or you will quickly destroy your RV fridge a lot in these forums. From my own personal experience, if you are level enough to walk around in your RV, it's fine. We frequently have overnight stops where we don't disconnect and the rig is very unlevel. Fridge works fine. We have parked it at race tracks in unlevel staging areas for several days with no problems.

I have no clue how unlevel it would have to be to cause damage, but it must be hellacious. I think if unlevel parking caused damage, I would have experienced it at some point in the last 40 years

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

I read this BS about having to be level or you will quickly destroy your RV fridge a lot in these forums. From my own personal experience, if you are level enough to walk around in your RV, it's fine. We frequently have overnight stops where we don't disconnect and the rig is very unlevel. Fridge works fine. We have parked it at race tracks in unlevel staging areas for several days with no problems.

X2. Seems to have become an urban legend.

[michael.mcilrath]

Originally Posted by 270S

Ok, what is the definition of off level? How many degrees. I turn my refer on for initial cool down in my driveway. It has a front to rear drop of apx 5 degrees and maybe 2-3 pax to driver side. Is that "terrible" and cause trouble some have mentioned? Or does it need to be exaggerated like in a steep hill or slope of 15-25 degrees or more?

I’m not sure but I have mine level enough a marble won’t roll around the floor and mine doesn’t work. I’m taking it into the shop today and hopefully they can figure this issue out.

[aspayne]

I always start my fridge on 110 to get it cold then switch to gas. Gas takes forever to cool a hot fridge.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by aspayne

I always start my fridge on 110 to get it cold then switch to gas. Gas takes forever to cool a hot fridge.

That's funny. All my fridges cool much faster with propane. Live and learn.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by aspayne

I always start my fridge on 110 to get it cold then switch to gas. Gas takes forever to cool a hot fridge.

It shouldn't. On my Dometic DM2652, the electric heating element is 325 watts, which is 1109 Btu/hr. The gas burner puts out 1500 Btu/hr. So the gas is putting out about 35% more heat, which means it should be cooling faster with gas.

See specs on page 2 of the attached. I'd guess most fridges are similar.

You might want to check YOUR model fridges specs. (1 watt = 3.412 Btu/hr)

And maybe check that your burner is operating properly.

[270S]

My test analysis shows them cooling about the same, the difference is only in the initial startup cooling from ambient. The propane saves 2-3 hours for the initial cool down. The absolute biggest decrease in time was when I added the $20 cooling (recirculation) fans inside the refer. With an overnight cool down, I load in the am with no problem vs needing 18 or more hours.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by 270S

My test analysis shows them cooling about the same, the difference is only in the initial startup cooling from ambient. The propane saves 2-3 hours for the initial cool down. The absolute biggest decrease in time was when I added the $20 cooling (recirculation) fans inside the refer. With an overnight cool down, I load in the am with no problem vs needing 18 or more hours.

I agree 100%, this thread is all over the place on how long it takes, everyones unit is different adding condenser fans and circulation fan all make a big difference in the time it takes, proven fact. If you use it stock it will take longer period, but there are ways to get around that. As far as level, yes level is best, but to say it has to be is wrong. Proven fact my driveway has a sloop, yes unhooked I'm level but 12 to 24 hours before I leave I hook up, the refer is at temp and on propane, for over 5 years I have never had a problem and my nose is about 3 to 4 inches higher, that makes it uncomfortable to walk around, now would I camp at that difference no, but it's not hurting anything. I would rather be off level with a absorption system then with a residential style, no moving parts in absorption.

[Rich5117]

To the OP don't feel to bad, things happen. When we purchased our 2016 Silverback I had them place water bottles in the freezer and fridge as I suggested earlier. During our walk thru everything seemed fine with the fridge. On our first trip it would not cool below 50. To make a long story short. Went back to dealer 2 times to have repaired. They stated could not find a problem. Kept doing the same thing would not cool below 50. After second repair attempt picked RV up to head south. Hit South Carolina and it got worse. Found a RV refrigerator specialist located near South Carolina. Took 5 minutes to tell me a bad cooling unit.

Forest River wanted to send new fridge to replace. Tech said let me get you a new cooling unit and install it. Will warranty for 5 years and it will work better than a replacement. We were delayed for 5 days. After the repair our refrigerator has worked perfectly even in 95 degree heat. All was covered by warranty, Forest River was happy we allowed it to be repaired instead of replaced.

Carren RV was the repair facility. He told me that it really takes a few days after loading your fridge and freezer for the temps to really get to and settle in at the correct temps 0 degrees for freezer and 38 for fridge.

[keith_h]

Originally Posted by 270S

Ok, what is the definition of off level? How many degrees. I turn my refer on for initial cool down in my driveway. It has a front to rear drop of apx 5 degrees and maybe 2-3 pax to driver side. Is that "terrible" and cause trouble some have mentioned? Or does it need to be exaggerated like in a steep hill or slope of 15-25 degrees or more?

The numbers I have seen are approx 6 degrees off level front to back and 3 degrees from side to side. Since you need condensed coolant under the burner I suspect it is more forgiving if the side to side favors the burner side of the fridge.

[larry2c]

Our last TT was a Jayco and the user manual said 3 degrees front to rear and 5 degrees said to side. Our new TT is longer than the Jayco and so I can no longer achieve <3 degrees front to back - more like 4.5 degrees (digital level). The manual for this fridge doesn't give a specific degree level - just says something about a comfortable angle... The first time I tried to pre cool the fridge in the drive before a trip it ran for over 16 hours with no cooling detectable in the fridge. I pulled the TT out on the street where it is almost level (less than 1 degree) and within about 4 hours you could feel the fins cooling. Got to the CG my thermometer was in the blue zone and by the next morning all was right with the world in our fridge.

I haven't tried to precool in the drive since then but I did buy one of the little circulating fans on Amazon and that will get the fridge down to the point we can start loading food in it within about 3 hours (if it's really hot out that would stretch out some). For the price I find the little fan a great help. Whether the extra couple degrees stopped our fridge from cooling the first try or if it was just a fluke, I'm not sure but I try to be under the 3 degrees the Jayco manual said since it is pretty much the same fridge (this one's bigger but still a Dometic evap unit).

that's my story on trailer angle for the fridge - your results may differ

[michael.mcilrath]

Originally Posted by larry2c

Our last TT was a Jayco and the user manual said 3 degrees front to rear and 5 degrees said to side. Our new TT is longer than the Jayco and so I can no longer achieve <3 degrees front to back - more like 4.5 degrees (digital level). The manual for this fridge doesn't give a specific degree level - just says something about a comfortable angle... The first time I tried to pre cool the fridge in the drive before a trip it ran for over 16 hours with no cooling detectable in the fridge. I pulled the TT out on the street where it is almost level (less than 1 degree) and within about 4 hours you could feel the fins cooling. Got to the CG my thermometer was in the blue zone and by the next morning all was right with the world in our fridge.

I haven't tried to precool in the drive since then but I did buy one of the little circulating fans on Amazon and that will get the fridge down to the point we can start loading food in it within about 3 hours (if it's really hot out that would stretch out some). For the price I find the little fan a great help. Whether the extra couple degrees stopped our fridge from cooling the first try or if it was just a fluke, I'm not sure but I try to be under the 3 degrees the Jayco manual said since it is pretty much the same fridge (this one's bigger but still a Dometic evap unit).

that's my story on trailer angle for the fridge - your results may differ

Well got mine back from the fridge issue and had nothing to do with leveling. There were connections that were never connected or got disconnected behind the fridge. Everything is working good now