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Old 02-07-2015, 07:48 PM   #11
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175 you are overheating the furnace. There are only two things that will cause this, low air flow or to much gas flow into the combustion chamber heat ex changer. You replaced the the propane gas regulator on the trailer propane tanks and pulled the furnace out of the trailer furnace compartment. When the furnace was out did you make sure the return air box was open to the fan? The other remote possibility is that some paper or what ever got sucked into the blower fan wheel reducing air flow. If this happens the fan will have a vibration to it as the material will unbalance the blower wheel and restrict air flow. hope this helps
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Old 02-07-2015, 08:02 PM   #12
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Thanks. I'll try pulling it out again and checking it over. I know nothing is on the fan because I looked to make sure both fans were not clogged up with dirt or something
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Old 02-07-2015, 08:12 PM   #13
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Could be a bad circuit board?
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Old 02-07-2015, 08:31 PM   #14
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Could be a bad circuit board?
This is true, it could also be a bad stat. OP can jumper it out with the two wires and see if it will stay on. It can also be that the motor is not blowing enough air over the heat exchanger. He will need to find the amp draw of the motor and match it to the rating of the motor at FLA (full loaded amps) other then that call the service guy back out. All so at the same time jumper out the air flow switch. You need to work backwards from the power source which would be the stat. He has more then enough cfm with all the duct work he stated. I leaning towards that circuit board myself also.
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Old 02-07-2015, 08:42 PM   #15
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Thanks. I just pulled it out again and ask air flow and fans appear clear. With the front cover off, I can feel ( from a few inches away), the right side if the chamber is getting wicked hour before cycling off. This also happens when camper plugged in. I checked amperage, and it's within limits.
Would a bad circuit board cause it to get too hot?
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Old 02-07-2015, 08:44 PM   #16
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Sorry about the typos. I only have my phone with me. Getting wicked hot, not hour
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Old 02-07-2015, 08:59 PM   #17
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I had an issue were the actual duct had a hole in it and was leaking. I replaced the bad duct which happened to feed the vent closet the thermostat. The furnace then cycled off correctly. I am really thinking you either have too high gas pressure. Should be 11 inches of water column. Or maybe the gas orifice has been damaged and is allowing too much gas. The furnace should run without cutting out. when you regulator was replaced is it a two stage regulator?
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Old 02-07-2015, 09:03 PM   #18
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Yes, replaced with two stage. It's hard to believe orifice could get damaged, but maybe replacing that should be my next step. I actually pulled that at one point and didn't see any visual damage
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Old 02-07-2015, 09:52 PM   #19
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Sorry about the typos. I only have my phone with me. Getting wicked hot, not hour
Not quite sure what you mean wicked hot? Your heat exchanger should be about the same across the cells. You might have a blockage not having even gas flow or heat. If your side with the limit is on the wicket side it could be your problem. Your heat output should be around 140 degrees not 175. If you have a air compressor blow out your heat exchanger. I truly doubt it is your regulator. If you have a temp gun measure each tube they should be within 5 to 10 degrees across other the that you have a blockage. Sorry but this is all guessing without seeing it and doing it. If you take the front cover off and turn it on will it still go off on your limit?
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Old 02-07-2015, 10:10 PM   #20
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Yes, the limit switch is on the side that seems to be getting very hot, and it still limits out with front cover off. I'll try blowing out the exchanger and see if that helps.
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