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02-07-2015, 10:12 PM
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 39
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I don't have a temp gun. The mechanic I saw the other day had one, so that's how I know it was limiting out at around 175.
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02-07-2015, 10:22 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern Ontario
Posts: 4,167
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When furnace is running, what is the actual voltage off the battery with multimeter? If battery is low, then you won't get as much air flow.....
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Fonzie
2011 Rockwood 8319SS with ProPride 3P hitch/GoodYear Marathons/TST TPMS 507
2019 F350 Ruby Red 6.7l diesel 3.31 axle electronic locker
Yamaha 3000iseb generator:Progressive Ind. EMS-HW30C : Eastern Ontario
Nights Camped: 2014 (18) 2015 (18) 2016 (36) 2017 (32) 2018 (42) 2019 (28) 2020 (35)
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02-08-2015, 08:53 AM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 39
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It does it plugged into power running it on converter. I haven't checked rpms, but fan sends to be running strong
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02-08-2015, 12:19 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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I for got to mention, when you blow out the heat exchanger also blow out your burner. Let us know what happens....
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Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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02-08-2015, 01:20 PM
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 39
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Thanks. I'll get to a place with an air compressor this week, so I'll pull it out once again and blow things out.
When you're referring to the heat exchanger, are you talking about just the outside of the burner?
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02-08-2015, 05:14 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsongreg
Thanks. I'll get to a place with an air compressor this week, so I'll pull it out once again and blow things out.
When you're referring to the heat exchanger, are you talking about just the outside of the burner?
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You need to pull it, I attached how to do it. Also check your flame and make sure it looks like this shows. Look at figure #8 and #9, like I said before your temp should be pretty equal across the whole exchanger.
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Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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02-08-2015, 05:35 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Here is a picture of the parts. If your not getting heat to other side it is blocked with something. All the cells are connected. If you have a temp gun, you could shoot each cell instead to make sure nothing is blocking the cross over tubes. That would be easier then pulling it.
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Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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02-11-2015, 10:54 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 599
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Ng orifice?(unlikely), blocked vent, or improper air ratio. Also look into primary air supply and secondary, there is no other reasons for getting high limit
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02-11-2015, 05:38 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 171
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Make sure the fan motor is running in the right direction , if motor is bad or wired wrong it could run backwards and not allow enough air flow
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02-12-2015, 05:55 PM
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#30
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 39
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I just took the heater apart again including removing blowers. I blew everything out, inspected burner element, and put it all back together. Still overheating 😡. Seem to be getting good air flow. I'll try replacing orifice next. I'm at a loss as to what else to do
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02-12-2015, 06:17 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsongreg
I just took the heater apart again including removing blowers. I blew everything out, inspected burner element, and put it all back together. Still overheating 😡. Seem to be getting good air flow. I'll try replacing orifice next. I'm at a loss as to what else to do
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I would call Airxcel first. Try to talk to a service guy. Derating your BTU will not repair the problem. Has it ever worked that you know of? ASk Airxcel what the temp of the limit is, you stated it cuts out at 175 degrees? You have checked the regulator and it is set at 11" correct? With all you have done already, it might be time to take it in to a service company that can put some meters on it and find the problem. Hate to say that, but your starting to just change parts until you find the right one. The wording seems to get good air flow is tough to measure unless you have a DC amp meter and read the amps it pulling at FLA. I admire all you have tried over and over again but somethings you just have to have the right equipment to measure things. Good Luck, but I would talk to Airxcel and take it to a dealer....
__________________
Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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02-12-2015, 09:22 PM
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#32
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 39
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It did work fine last year. I think you may be right about taking it to a shop. The problem is finding a good one. The last shop I took it to didn't really know how to trouble shoot beyond the basics. They were one of the shops listed on suburban website for authorized repair. They did cheek regulator.
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03-05-2015, 11:01 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 847
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had an issue before with mud daubers in the heating element. had to pull the element and soak the inside to get them out. tell tale sign was little mud globules on the vent..very tiny that scraped off. symptom was carbon build up but i think they could cause the uneven heating and possible hot spot in limit area. interesting how this could just start up...
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03-05-2015, 05:04 PM
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#34
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 10
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Definitely sounds like a blockage somewhere or possibly the wrong high limit switch installed. I think you're barking up the wrong tree with regards to the orfice. If it hasn't been touched it should be fine. You should make sure that fan is turning in the right direction and is drawing the proper amps. Also if you have and analog thermostat it could possibly be the cylce setting on the thermostat itself. The furnace may be short cycling not actually overheating.
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