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Old 10-03-2011, 08:08 AM   #11
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Check your fan. Rust or Mud Daubers (wasps) could have built a nest on the fan blades. An unbalanced or rusted fan may turn fast enough to close the sail switch in the outflow, but not fast enough to push the heat out the vents.

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Old 10-03-2011, 12:14 PM   #12
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Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will refer these to my husband.
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Old 10-03-2011, 12:43 PM   #13
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I checked my venting tubes at the heater and they were installed to the point of reducing the tubing in half. I cut out some the restricting material which helped. On the other vent outlet the unit was so close to the cabinet that not much could be done so I know there is a restriction. Now that winter is coming I will take another look at trying to resolve this problem

We use our trailer all year long and often encounter temps in 30 and 40's and even in the 20's. When we have electricity we use small electric heaters and we when don't we use more clothes
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Old 10-03-2011, 12:46 PM   #14
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I had a similar issue, I wasn't getting a good airflow and was using a lot of propane. As I used to be a HVAC Service tech and manager I dove right in and found several issues. I took off the front cover (Suburban heater) and found that the opening through the floor into the main plenum was smaller than the plenum itself. The plenum had dropped or wasn't installed properly and there was a gap between the plenum and the floor allowing heated air to blow into the belly(yes I know there should be some air flow). Opening in the plenum to push air into the belly was fully open with no kind of duct attached to it to create some back pressure.

I first addressed plenum issue first by cutting the opening in the floor to match the size of the duct and pulled the duct through the floor and attached it so there is no wood from the floor showing. I then reassembled and tested. I still had poor flow to the bedroom (farthest run). I then reduced the size of the opening pushing air into the basement which greatly increased air flow to the bedroom. When I have a chance to remove the belly covering I would like to change the flexible duct to hard pipe for even better flow.
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Old 10-03-2011, 08:29 PM   #15
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lucky you my wife and i bought our 30f in o6 brand new and have spent hundrends of days and nites in it we have used our furnace many many times with temps in the low 30s and it has worked great warming the camper front to back very evenly furnice noisey but every rv ive owned was the same ducted ac also works great hope you enjoy it
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:46 AM   #16
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I had similar issue as the Beast. The plenum below the furnace had dropped since the only thing holding it up was foil tape. After removing the tape I raised the plenum back up so it was tight to the bottom of the furnace. I secured it with multiple screws. Also enlarged the opening at the bottom of the furnace to increase air flow area. I'm not concerned so much about heating the underbelly. Not likely we will be camping in freezing temps.
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Old 10-05-2011, 09:15 AM   #17
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i would check and see hot hot the air coming out of the registers is. if it seems too hot, check for a blockage of air. if air is warm to hot, check for breaks in the duct.
how was ur gas usage for the day? furnaces use a lot of gas.
sense they are different fans, the motor may come up to speed and the sail switch still work normally (combustion air side) even if the trailer air side is blocked. there is a safety temp switch that should shut the gas down if heated air gets too hot.
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Old 10-05-2011, 09:34 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimh View Post
i would check and see hot hot the air coming out of the registers is. if it seems too hot, check for a blockage of air. if air is warm to hot, check for breaks in the duct.
how was ur gas usage for the day? furnaces use a lot of gas.
sense they are different fans, the motor may come up to speed and the sail switch still work normally (combustion air side) even if the trailer air side is blocked. there is a safety temp switch that should shut the gas down if heated air gets too hot.
Jim, While it is true there are two squirrel cage fans in the furnace, they are on a common shaft with the 12VDC blower motor. See page 5 of the attached trouble shooting guide.
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Old 10-05-2011, 10:06 AM   #19
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Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will refer these to my husband.
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When you get the problem resolved, please be sure to come back and let us know what the fix was.
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Old 10-05-2011, 10:09 AM   #20
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reduced air flow will result in lower motor amperage. sense it is still moving some air, believe the only safety that would be affected would be the temp limit. air flow may even increase on the combustion side (although i would think very little if any...would not expect it to decrease).
i'm not seeing what else would take it out. i'll look a little closer to see if there is something that i am overlooking.
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