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Old 11-08-2008, 10:24 AM   #11
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1 Year Decay

Here is a picture of a new plug with anode and my old unit that is 1 year old.
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Old 11-08-2008, 03:51 PM   #12
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I took my 4 yr. old anode rod (which looked much worse that the 1 in the picture) from my Trailmanor into the local RV dealer to get a replacement. The lady there said that she could sell me 1, but that I had a lot more life left in the 1 I had. If it gets down to looking mostly like a thin wire, then it is finally toast. I know that they are fairly cheap, but $12 or so over maybe a life expectancy of a 1/2 dozen years is $70 or so of money in my pocket. Besides, I sold the Trailmanor. I do think it is very important to check that puppy every year, ideally when winterizing.

On a like note, while replacing the thermostats and checking the elements on my home water heater this week, I looked into the tank to check the anode rod there. Before rinsing it off with a stream of water, it looked like it was coated with clear Jello or something......yuch !!! After rinsing it off, it looked more like the used anode rod in the above picture. It was just sitting there and doing it's duty of giving up ions it's lifetime of galvanic exchange.


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Old 11-08-2008, 06:50 PM   #13
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going along with this topic... you really should remove that anode and flush your tank a couple of times thoughout the seacon. More important with the Atwood, but both systems will benefit from removing the concentrated salts & minerials that are eating that anode.
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Old 12-07-2008, 06:15 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
Yeah the anode rod is meant to be sacrificial and should be replaced when 50% of the rod diameter is gone. Most people change them once a year whether they need it or not. Mine is almost three years old and is finally in need of replacement. I guess all the places we go have soft water.
Here is a post from another forum pertaining to cleaning the rod. Haven't tried it yet but intend to.
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Old 12-24-2008, 03:45 PM   #15
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we always turn the inlet valve and outlet valve and bypass valve back to normal after winterizing then in the Spring when you flush, it will flow thru your entire system...any water going into the water heater will flush out any sediment...affter it flushes for some time you can re-install the anode putting your sytem back to normal after winterizing you won't ever forget to fill up your water heater before turning it on and possibly burning out the element..
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:49 AM   #16
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You can buy a plastic rod from the camping store that screws onto your garden hose. It will go deep inside the water heater and help flush out any residual debris. In order to get all of the water out, I run the other side of the trailer up on a makeshift ramp I made to elevate that side. That forces the water to run out of the heater. Let it set for a while so that it all gets out. When replacing the anode rod apply anti-seize coumpound to the threads. This will help get a good seal and will make it easier to unscrew it later.

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