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Old 10-19-2008, 05:45 PM   #1
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Help! Draining Hot WaterTank

Guys,

I've got about 3 days before the overnight low drops down to -4C and Im trying to make sure my first year of winterizing the trailer (Surveyor) goes well.

So far everything is done, EXCEPT, draining the hot water tank!

I've purged the lines with air, added antifreeze, ran the antifree thru the pump, etc etc. But I can't figure out how to drain the hot water tank.

There is a 6 sided big bolt on the tank if I access the outside panel, but I cant figure how I'm supposed to get at it in order to turn it. It's set in there, and there are gas pipes etc in close proximity...

Advice appreciated. I want to try and resolve prior to the freeze

Giantfan
Erin, ON, Canada
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Old 10-19-2008, 06:00 PM   #2
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Just had another go of it. I guess I just need a bigger socket...

Anyone know the size?? Looks a hair bigger than an inch.
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Old 10-19-2008, 06:41 PM   #3
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Water Heater Drain

My Suburban water heater drain plug is 1 - 1/16". Will be VERY tight.

This is also an anode rod. So you can inspect it, clean it, and reinsert it. Most recommend using plumbers teflon tape on the threads.

Good Luck.

TacBear
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Old 10-19-2008, 07:13 PM   #4
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I think mine is 1 1/16. Use an extension and you can get it out. Be sure to relieve the pressure valve before removing the anode rod. Otherwise it will shoot out like it was shot from a rifle. Don't ask me how I know.
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Old 10-19-2008, 07:32 PM   #5
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After you get the plug out run the garden hose in it and flush out any sedament that accumulates in the tank.
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Old 10-20-2008, 05:42 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokie Hall View Post
I think mine is 1 1/16. Use an extension and you can get it out. Be sure to relieve the pressure valve before removing the anode rod. Otherwise it will shoot out like it was shot from a rifle. Don't ask me how I know.
I know what you mean, I just removed my hot water plug Sunday at the camp ground to get a jump on Winterizing and I forgot to open the relieve valve..............however I turn off the hot water heater and run the hot water down the sink until the water is cold before I remove the plug, this way If I forget to open the relieve valve "as I did" then I will not get burnt.
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Old 10-20-2008, 09:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HookMeUp View Post
After you get the plug out run the garden hose in it and flush out any sedament that accumulates in the tank.
I winterized my trailer yesterday and noticed sediment. I'm going to use the garden hose on it like you suggested. It's one of those, "why didn't i think of that moments".

Thanks
Bill
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Old 10-25-2008, 06:22 PM   #8
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Thanks gang,

Yep, when down to the hardware store and picked up a 1 1/16 socket and we were off to the races.

I've only had the trailer since July as was surpised how much corrosion there is on the anode rod.

Are these meant to be replaced? I assume so, and is so, then at what point? It's fairly pitted, and had some calcium etc buildup on it. Is the purpose of this rod to pull these things from the water? Just curious.

Appreciate all the help! Calling for snow here over the next week, so just putting the finishing touches on closing it up - although I will be using it next weekend, but wont be adding water - just the furnace.
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Old 10-25-2008, 10:35 PM   #9
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Yeah the anode rod is meant to be sacrificial and should be replaced when 50% of the rod diameter is gone. Most people change them once a year whether they need it or not. Mine is almost three years old and is finally in need of replacement. I guess all the places we go have soft water.
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:50 PM   #10
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The anode rod will decay almost immediately if any antifreeze gets into the hot water tank, so always make sure the bypass is on before winterizing and make sure you clear the lines of all antifreeze in the spring before turning the bypass off.
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