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Old 10-27-2010, 09:05 AM   #1
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Question Help w/ plumbing issues???

I posted a couple of plumbing questions over here, and haven't got any replies...

Reworking the plumbing ~ Lexington 210

i've answered a couple myself but still have a couple...

briefly, why is the hot water tank still warm with the propane off and the switch shut off at the convenience center? Is there a electrical element that warms the tank as long as water is in the tank?

and, should there be a valve on the inlet AND the outlet on the water heater bypass? I do have a bypass on the hot water tank but there is only one 3-way valve on the inlet side. Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of the bypass and allow water to back feed the tank thru the outlet? Maybe there is a check valve inside the tank???
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:16 AM   #2
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Don't know why you didn't get any answers to your other thread, but I shall make an attempt here, even though I don't own a Lexington.

There is probably a small toggle switch on the bottom left of your water heater.....on the outside part of the unit. It is well hidden behind the gas pipes. Check to see if that is on.....make sure it is off if you drain the water out of your tank.

Even if the toggle switch is off, the water will remain hot for a period of time, so that might be what you are experiencing.

If you have only 1 3 way valve on the inlet side for your water heater bypass, then you are probably correct that there is a check valve on the outlet side. I had an RV tech install a bypass system on my Trialmanor, and that is the way he set that up......it worked great, BTW.
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:27 AM   #3
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First it sounds like you may an electric heater so I would check the outside where the heater cover is and look for a small switch that is partially hidden and ensure it is off. As to your bypass, here is some info from the winterizing manual my dealer sent me.

Single valve bypass will be near the bottom by the cold water inlet. Turn valve quarter turn to bypass. There is a check valve at the hot water outlet so that RV antifreeze will not flow back into the water heater.
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Old 10-27-2010, 10:04 AM   #4
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thanks

i found the outside switch...

yes, the one 3-way valve is at the bottom with a tee at the top. when i look at the bypass kits on the dealer's shelf they have two valves. and the tech i talked to at Avalon did not know if there is a check valve inside the tank outlet. i am torn between assuming there is a check valve on the tank outlet and adding the valve just to be safe.

i suppose i could pressurize the fresh water with the bypass engaged and anode removed....

has anyone dealt with this supplier? GO-RV.com - RV On-line Catalog

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSasks View Post
First it sounds like you may an electric heater so I would check the outside where the heater cover is and look for a small switch that is partially hidden and ensure it is off. As to your bypass, here is some info from the winterizing manual my dealer sent me.

Single valve bypass will be near the bottom by the cold water inlet. Turn valve quarter turn to bypass. There is a check valve at the hot water outlet so that RV antifreeze will not flow back into the water heater.
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Old 10-27-2010, 11:36 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzards27 View Post
yes, the one 3-way valve is at the bottom with a tee at the top. when i look at the bypass kits on the dealer's shelf they have two valves. and the tech i talked to at Avalon did not know if there is a check valve inside the tank outlet. i am torn between assuming there is a check valve on the tank outlet and adding the valve just to be safe.
If it were me, I would drain the water heater leaving the anode rod out. Flip the 3 way valve to the bypass position, and cut the water pump on or city water valve. If no water runs out the drain, then you have a check valve and everything is good to go.

Replace the drain/anode rod so critters don't visit over winter.
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Old 10-27-2010, 11:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzards27 View Post
i found the outside switch...

yes, the one 3-way valve is at the bottom with a tee at the top. when i look at the bypass kits on the dealer's shelf they have two valves. and the tech i talked to at Avalon did not know if there is a check valve inside the tank outlet. i am torn between assuming there is a check valve on the tank outlet and adding the valve just to be safe.

i suppose i could pressurize the fresh water with the bypass engaged and anode removed....

has anyone dealt with this supplier? GO-RV.com - RV On-line Catalog
I think you are over thinking this. The 2 valve setup looks like the pic and at the end of the day is the same as the 3 way valve setup just more complicated. The 2 valve and the one 3 way valve both employ the check valve and I really see no reason to doubt it is there but thats just me.
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Old 10-27-2010, 01:46 PM   #7
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The picture above is identical to my set-up. After setting the valves to winterize positions I turned on the pump and started adding antifreeze. I could hear dripping on the ground outside so I took a look and found antifreeze coming out of the drain plug on the water heater. I assumed I didn't have a check valve as I had hoped on the hot water line. I decided to run a test again this time with water to save wasting any more antifreeze. This time the system pressurized fine and the pump turned off as I was expecting the first time. Nothing coming out of the water heater either. So I blew out the lines again and ran the process with antifreeze this time and it worked fine.

The first time I tried the process with antifreeze the suction tube kept coming out of the antifreeze so I can only assume the air in the system mixed with antifreeze was preventing the check valve from working correctly.

Anyhow just thought I'd share my experience.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzards27 View Post
I posted a couple of plumbing questions over here, and haven't got any replies...

Reworking the plumbing ~ Lexington 210

i've answered a couple myself but still have a couple...

briefly, why is the hot water tank still warm with the propane off and the switch shut off at the convenience center? Is there a electrical element that warms the tank as long as water is in the tank?

and, should there be a valve on the inlet AND the outlet on the water heater bypass? I do have a bypass on the hot water tank but there is only one 3-way valve on the inlet side. Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of the bypass and allow water to back feed the tank thru the outlet? Maybe there is a check valve inside the tank???
check out ur post here...u have answers.
Reworking the plumbing ~ Lexington 210
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