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Old 03-14-2016, 08:05 PM   #1
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Help with caulking.

Hello. I've noticed recently that all the vertical seams (on all four corners ), have separated from the TT. Only down one side of the bead in each corner. I'm not certain but pretty sure it's "geocel proflex RV" I've found conflicting advise on how to fix. Can I clean existing and reseal with the same product. Or do I have to completely remove the existing sealant, then reseal. If so how do I remove it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want to fix this sooner rather then later.
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Old 03-14-2016, 08:37 PM   #2
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It "should" seal back to itself. I would use a sharp razor blade to clean as much of the excess old caulking off as possible without nicking the trailer. Then wipe it down with the approved solvent (alcohol?)(read the label), then apply the fresh bead of sealant. I just had to redo a corner cap on the slide of my new Concord and used Geocel 8xxx silicone RV sealant that I had from a previous project. I will know in a couple of weeks if it works or not. If not I pull it off clean it down to the paint and start over.

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Old 03-14-2016, 08:47 PM   #3
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Thanks for your input Aaron!
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:39 AM   #4
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:01 AM   #5
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Nash..... you didn't say how old the rig is or how long that the caulking has been in place.

The 'corner' seams always seem to flex more than others and are always a concern for leaks.

Good thing you are on top of it !

It is always best to remove the old caulking on most seams (with exception to the roof) to assure you are getting good adhesion.

Preparation is the key.

After removal of the old stuff give a good wipe down with a rag dampened with white gas, Naphtha, ...and of course as with any flammable fluid...Use
Caution. This will remove any residue and leave no oily film...dries quickly.

For a 'neat' job I always mask both sides of the lines to be caulked leaving margins for the caulk to lap the seam. Run the caulking along the seam then with a finger dipped in soapy water shape the bead of caulking between the masking tape. After a section....remove the tape and again run a soapy finger over the edges of the caulking sealing it where the tape was removed.

This is a little labor intensive way of doing it ,But the clean and tidy results are worth it....better than 'free-hand-caulking'.

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Old 03-15-2016, 11:19 AM   #6
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Thanks islander. Good info. The trailer is a 2013 221rbxl Salem cruise lite. I picked it up last May. As a condition of purchase I had them reseal the whole unit. So the sealnt in question could be less then a year to as old 2012-2013. Again thanks for the info. It seem like it would be hard to remove, feels like tough stuff.
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:53 AM   #7
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If the dealer is like most I have seen...they slapped the caulk on and did minimal to no prep work. I have watched a dealers service department seal an RV I had. I know how to but it was a warranty issue. They just ran Geocel down the seam over the old sealant....yah...worthless job.

Now the bugger...Geocel is a cast iron bugger to get off...only thing worse IMHO is a 3M Polysulfide. While it is a good sealant man I hate trying to get it off. I know because I had to remove the Geocel the dealer put on. Not fun on any level. For that reason I rarely use it but thats me. Geocel says you can seal over it again but I hate caulk over caulk over caulk...well you get it. Not ripping on Geocel either.

I have a preferred caulk for vertical seams but not going to get into my caulk is bigger than your caulk thing. Use whatever you like that is recommended or approved for RV vertical seams.

Anyway point being it is tough to get off. I ended up having to use a small metal paint scraper and or a flat tip screwdriver. Plastic wont cut it. Just be careful.
Then like said above tape off both sides of the seam and run your new caulk and tool with your finger. The extra time taping off is worth the results. Everone asks me to do theirs because mine looks factory not all finger gooped like everyone elses. Seriously taping takes just a few minutes extra.

Clean the surface with either Denatured Alcohol or Naptha works as above. I just don't like Naptha as it does not dry off as fast and leaves an odor. But it does work also. Naptha though will remove more left behind adhesive than Denatured will. Just be sure to get all the naptha off...sometimes I use both with denatured being the final clean off...just depends.

Also..about tooling the seam. All caulks usually have a minimal thickness needed to insure it doesn't split when it flexes. If you tool it too thin it will split. So it is kind of a balance...don't tool it with your finger and remove too much or make the seam thin. The corner seams especially will split.

If you are not wanting to tape it off then I suggest run the bead of caulk slow and make sure no gaps or bubbles and keep your finger out of it. Make sure the caulk bead leads the tip slightly this insures that caulk is being pushed into the gap..the tip should not be the component pushing it in after the fact.

Uggliest seam is a finger tooled seam with no tape....ughh. People get bubbles and gaps by going to fast or not enough feed for the speed they are moving then they end up trying to fix it by tooling it. This just makes it worse...more you finger it..the worse it gets.

Wish I knew a magic bullet for removing Geocel but haven't heard or found one yet. Just patience and a lot of delicate muscling that stuff off. You can apply Geoflex over itself but you have to ask...why did it fail so quick in the first place....improper prep.
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:32 AM   #8
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Quote: ...Geocel is a cast iron bugger to get off...only thing worse IMHO is a 3M Polysulfide. While it is a good sealant man I hate trying to get it off. I know because I had to remove the Geocel the dealer put on. Not fun on any level. For that reason I rarely use it but thats me. Geocel says you can seal over it again but I hate caulk over caulk over caulk...well you get it. Not ripping on Geocel either.

Removing Old Caulking is never a fun job nor an easy one.

However, the best method that I have use with great success is the 'window scraper razor-blade' tool. *As mentioned earlier.*..by 'Wahoonc'

CAUTION has to be used so you do not scratch or mar the finish of the surface...of course.

It is much easier to remove caulking on a hot day or use a hair dryer as you go...(a heat gun may get too hot = damage).
By holding the blade/tool at an sharp angle to the surface and gently with a steady pressure slide a corner of the blade under the caulking ...just enough of the blade for the width of the bead to be lifted. You do not have to do the 'whole bead' at one time... you can do a few passes.

After you have removed all or most of the old caulking use a rag dampened with naphtha (white gas) to get any traces of old caulking off and to prep the surface for new caulking.
Naphtha dries quickly and leave No oily residue, used by RV repair shop Pro's.
Please Use Caution with Any Solvent.

Slow and steady is the key...if you do not have the patience... don't even attempt this. Then pay to have it done.

See my post above for my 'tape the seams' method.
A finger dipped in soapy water makes for a good finish.

I hope this helps

Islander
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