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Old 09-24-2017, 12:32 AM   #21
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I LOVE my Rotochoks. I'm not sure if you can get them new anymore though.


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Old 09-24-2017, 12:51 AM   #22
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I LOVE my Rotochoks. I'm not sure if you can get them new anymore though.


Nope, the owners died and the company folded.
Rotochoks were loved by the RV community.
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Old 09-24-2017, 03:02 AM   #23
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Interested in seeing pictures of what you all are doing as far as chocking tires and leveling your camper. I'd love to see pictures. Thanks...
Do a Search at Top and look up "Need advice on leveling " dated 5/09/2014,Post# 20! Youroo!!
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Old 09-24-2017, 05:15 PM   #24
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I just level side to side, then chock tires on one side, then X-Chock bother sides. Very simple really.
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Old 09-24-2017, 05:23 PM   #25
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Use and love Anderson levelers. Inside I use them I uses strap around wheels. In other side it’s standard chucks. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-25-2017, 01:21 AM   #26
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I'm surprised nobody mentions JT Strong Arm.

I use Anderson's to level side-to-side and to chock.
I use JT Strong Arm's on all 4 sides (front/rear and sides/side in front, and side to side in rear).
I use X-Chocks as well when I want to really feel like ensuring maximum stability.

Some people mention adding scissor jacks in the center of the coach for more stability too. I haven't touched that.
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Old 09-25-2017, 05:53 AM   #27
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Could always do like the guy I saw at a Love's truck stop on saturday. 4 scissor jacks welded to the frame...on each side of the trailer...for a total of 8 jacks. A little extreme...IMO.
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Old 10-30-2017, 09:10 PM   #28
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Guess I'm more a Walmart kind of guy

No pictures needed for my "system". 4 yellow Walmart chocks and a milk crate full of pressure treated wood (pieces of plywood and 2x10's). Back in, check cheap level on front of camper, back up another foot onto the right amount of wood and plop in the chocks. Been doing it that way for 20 years.

The only disadvantage with my system is that I can't really get a good bite with the chocks on the wood side.
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Old 10-30-2017, 09:18 PM   #29
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No pictures needed for my "system". 4 yellow Walmart chocks and a milk crate full of pressure treated wood (pieces of plywood and 2x10's). Back in, check cheap level on front of camper, back up another foot onto the right amount of wood and plop in the chocks. Been doing it that way for 20 years.

The only disadvantage with my system is that I can't really get a good bite with the chocks on the wood side.
solved my problem of getting chocks to bite on wood side by adding some small round head screws to the bottom of two chocks. Always use those on wood side if needed. screws bite into the wood for a better grip.
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Old 10-31-2017, 04:11 AM   #30
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When we had our last TT, I used Anderson's on one side and X-Chocks between the tires on each side. For further stabilization, I used Valterra stabilizers under the rear bumper and under the front of the trailer behind the propane tanks, plus used a step stabilizer. No rock and roll and very little movement otherwise.
Finally found a picture of how we leveled and chocked the Flagstaff....
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Old 10-31-2017, 04:17 AM   #31
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We use 2x6 boards to level. Back into site, check level with those attached to front and rear of camper, back or up up the length of the board and drive up onto it.

Each one adds 1.5" of height. It is actually fast and easy. We have been at it for over 20 years and it is just a routine. We have 3 of them so the site could be off by 4.5" and we are still good to go.

To chock we use two rubber chock blocks from Harbor Freight. Either on the wood or on the ground they work fine.
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Old 01-29-2018, 09:57 PM   #32
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Standard chocks to unhook then I level side to side with electric 4k jacks that I fabricated aft the axles. Then level front to back with the self equalizing hydraulic front landing gear.
The lower picture is what I bolted to the I-beam frame with 1/2" bolts. I'm able to lift the entire coach off the ground which is great for bearing maintenance or tire service.
Attachment 152348
Attachment 152349
Wow, that is awesome!!!

so many questions I can't even type them out.


Are there any issues or disadvantages besides cost? A quick search says 4k Jack's are $500 each, so double that plus fab and installation, plus the feet look like a separate purchase.
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Old 01-29-2018, 10:25 PM   #33
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Wow, that is awesome!!!

so many questions I can't even type them out.


Are there any issues or disadvantages besides cost? A quick search says 4k Jack's are $500 each, so double that plus fab and installation, plus the feet look like a separate purchase.
Jacks I get @ a good price around 125. Foot is about 34. The 3/16 x 2 x 6 tubing I have left over stock so figure 3. Bolts are 1/2" x 2 using 2 for each lift. So parts alone plus some black enamel paint , my cost, is about $170 x 2= $340 a set. But labor comes in because I cut out an amount of the tube and I re-clock the shaft so the foot faces a certain direction. Then I cut out the tubing so it fits tight but flat between the 10" I-beam flange. It then gets fully welded to the jack tube. Once holes are drilled through the web of the I-beam and they're mounted, I run a single 10ga hot lead from the battery along with a 30amp auto reset circuit breaker. The units are self grounded through the chassis. I also modified the stock hand crank into a manual ratchet drive tool for it in case a motor quits I can put them up manually.
I considered fabbing up a couple of sets but I'm just so busy I haven't had time but I did save my template for a later date.
The units been on there a while now with no issues at all. Even the LED courtesy lights still work. For service I use them to lift the entire coach off of the ground to pull wheels and tires. Aldo no more blocking one side of tires to get it level, they level it side to side perfectly. They have been one my most useful mods. They're starting to show their age.
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