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Old 05-12-2013, 09:06 AM   #31
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Found out years ago that the stick on levels once applied originally had to be secured with stainless steel screws to remain in the correct position. Once that was done, they are as good as anything, but if left just to the adhesive, they are useless.
The adhesive on mine was not very good. They were a bb ball level and the ball would not move unless you tapped on it. That's what I get for buying a cheap cheap set. Next ones will be better and I will probably mount them to the access doors with screws so they stay level.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:18 AM   #32
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A two foot level on the rear bumper to level side-to-side; then level on front frame under the entry door for front-to-back level. I then put a bubble level inside on the counter and floor to verify.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:18 AM   #33
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The adhesive on mine was not very good. They were a bb ball level and the ball would not move unless you tapped on it. That's what I get for buying a cheap cheap set. Next ones will be better and I will probably mount them to the access doors with screws so they stay level.
I used the little Hoppy bubble levels and attached with ss screws. Worked great once securely attached. When we got the new 5ver, got the big level and installed just above the pinbox and I like it as I can see when backing up or pulling on a site where it is level side to side while still in the truck. Much easier and then all I have to do is raise or lower the trailer to level fore/aft.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:23 AM   #34
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I don't understand what all the fuss is about. Don't you have a button inside an access panel that does all that?
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:28 AM   #35
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I don't understand what all the fuss is about. Don't you have a button inside an access panel that does all that?
That option probably costs more than my entire Roo :-P
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:30 AM   #36
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Hmmm, there are probably a 150 different ways to level a unit but I have to agree (not that it matters) with Himcules on this one. An RV fridge is a very basic absorption system and although it needs to be fairly level to work properly I can't imagine that any would be installed so unlevel from the floor that it wouldn't work.
That would make for a very crappy installation and at that point I would be concerned about how the rest if the unit was put together.

Again, there are many ways to level a unit and whatever you are comfortable with is the method you should use.

I use a 2' level on the floor and my son makes fun of me.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:52 AM   #37
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A general rule of thumb used with the newer models is "if it is comfortable walking in the camper, it is good for the refrigerator"

Our refrig. in in the rear wall, so if I am level side to side according to the big level on the pinbox. I'm good to go. I set the pinbox level by leveling off the bottom side trim molding and the rear trim molding which is close enough for me.

X-3
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:18 AM   #38
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We use this and get readings for front to back and side to side.
X2.

I adjusted it to level using a variety of locations on the camper and just use it.

Plus I have my intellijack system that automatically levels from front to back. It is a bit of a luxury but I really like it.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:20 AM   #39
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I'm surprised that nobody mentioned the stove. I have played the various games of leveling in different places only to have an egg run all the way to the back of the frying pan. So I calibrated my auto leveling system for a level stove. BTW, it's not an exact science!
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:23 AM   #40
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I'm surprised that nobody mentioned the stove. I have played the various games of leveling in different places only to have an egg run all the way to the back of the frying pan. So I calibrated my auto leveling system for a level stove. BTW, it's not an exact science!
You would think that for the price we pay for some of these units, they could install the stinkin stove level!
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