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Old 05-12-2013, 09:55 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by bakken View Post
You would think that for the price we pay for some of these units, they could install the stinkin stove level!
Ha! Ha! You would think!


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Old 05-12-2013, 10:00 AM   #42
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Do believe it is the cabinets the countertops are mounted to more than the stove itself. So, level according to the stovetop and the frig will be ok and more important than anything else is DW will be happier.

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Old 05-12-2013, 10:44 AM   #43
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I got this spiffy new 3170DS and it came with a little box under the seat, I press AUTO and voila.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:58 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Garrette View Post
I got this spiffy new 3170DS and it came with a little box under the seat, I press AUTO and voila.
i pressed the auto button on mine. on fairly even ground, it works fine. on uneven ground WITHIN it's adjustment range, it fails pathetically.. the programming behind it never measures the high point on the ground and level based off that.

on my unit, it kept going up. each side. up then measure. up another side then measure. then up again... repeatedly till it runs out of adjustment and errors with excess slope blinking at me.

i fixed it by manually leveling against the large water pitcher. as stated before, water will always find level on its surface and is the most accurate. so the larger the water surface area, the more accurate it is.
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:27 PM   #45
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Seeing some OCD tendencies here, myself included.

Out 5'er does not use an ammonia fridge, it has an 18 cu ft house fridge so level is a little less critical.

That said I still have level on the outside to get me in the ball park (stick on bubble and the LSI ones the dealer put on that I don't trust). Once those are in the ball park I put a level on multiple surfaces inside (they are still all pretty close to each other).

Will probably focus on the trove as time goes on for the aforementioned reasons (happy wife, happy life).

Your mileage may vary ;-)
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:59 PM   #46
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this is what I use
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2012 Wildcat 344QB

06 LBZ ,CC 4x
lots of mods
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:01 PM   #47
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Still trying to get the art of levelling a TT that has a slide on it. I can only get to the wheels to put in the X-chock before the slide is extended without crawling way under. A couple of times now I have had things nice and level, X-chocks on, stab. jacks down and then put the slide out only to find it's out too far out side to side. Grrrrr.

As someone said here recently, it takes a little practice to set up a little out of level the other way and then when your slide is out, you are good. Getting better at it but still need more practice. I am finding that I can be out just 1/2 the thickness of a lego levelling block to get the TT really level again after the slide is out so I just let it go. Again, needs some practice to level with slide in/out.

And then there's the times you have driven all day and you are tired and cranky and hungry and just don't care how un-level the thing is. That's when it can wait 'til the next day.
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:05 PM   #48
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Ok guys. The long and short. The Hyd level system has done just fine so far. At least I am not jacking jacks until the DW says the bathroom door swings OK. Is it dead nuts, NO but, Coming from Pop Ups to TT to C as long as the beer stays cold and I'm not rolling out of bed, I am sooo good. IMO.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:53 AM   #49
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RV refrigerators are safe within 3 degrees front to back and 6 degrees side to side. That is pretty loose so if it feel level, it is probably ok. That having been said, I like mine to be exact (only because I am weird that way). Drives the wife crazy. I use the little screw in levels on the side of the camper. I had mine installed at the dealership.

For whatever reason it drives me crazy when I see an Camper set up unlevel.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:02 PM   #50
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Level is relative. Our Rv's are made to give and flex when going down the road. If that weren't true we'd have broken windows and busted seams when we got to the CG. This means the RV flexes anytime it needs to. Case in point, the entry door on my TT opens just fine in the morning but sometimes when it gets hot enough and the sun bears down just right the door starts to catch on the frame by mid afternoon. When the sun goes down its fine again.

Another thing to keep in mind is that they're made in a factory with the cabinets and everything else being made and installed by humans. No matter how true the frame, the builder can screw up. This means the cabinets, the floor, EVERYTHING in the RV can be out of whack at any time throughout the day or night depending on how its made/installed and if its flexing from expansion or weight.

As far as the fridge goes my manual says I think 2 inches side to side and 2 inches front to back. I was concerned about this at first but realized even one inch over a distance of two feet is REALLY off. When we're comfortable with the level of the trailer I check the fridge. It's usually pretty good and after 10 months full timing we haven't had a problem.

I don't worry much about the TT being level anymore, I just make sure we're comfortable and things don't roll off the counter. I have to say it would really help if they didn't install the foot of our bed 2 inches higher than the head though.

My TT: 2013 Cherokee Grey Wolf 28BH
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