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Old 03-05-2016, 01:30 PM   #11
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Shouldn't be a problem. I have left my rig overnight several times. Sometimes at a motel while unit was still winterized. Never had a problem with refer.
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I would think you could go at least a day or so on good battery.
Thanks!
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Old 03-05-2016, 01:33 PM   #12
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Good point. I use a battery cutoff switch so my battery tends to stay strong, even in storage. Not sure about the chancy part. The worst that could happen is the battery dies, the fridge shuts off, and it doesn't cool. Just an inconvenience.
Not just an inconvenience, battery running down to nothing=permanently ruined battery (don't ask how I know ).
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Old 03-05-2016, 01:39 PM   #13
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Thinking of turning the fridge on using propane and the battery the night before leaving. Will it run 12-15 hours on a fresh battery?
Absolutely! Our RV is at a storage lot so we always go out the night before and turn on the battery, then turn on the propane, once we have good flow of propane we then turn on the fridge. I'm still using the battery that came with the trailer when we bought it in 2012.

BTW, an RV fridge will cool down faster on the propane side rather than the 110 volt side.
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Old 03-05-2016, 02:35 PM   #14
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I do exactly the same as what you want to do and I never have a problem with the battery. Sometimes this is after the trailer has not been used in months. I do disconnect the battery when in storage.
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Old 03-06-2016, 08:28 AM   #15
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2 Weeks

Our generator failed on our houseboat, and after about 10 days the fridge quit. It doesn't draw much power.

It makes sense to connect a 5 or 10 watt solar panel directly to the battery. Five watts won't charge it, but will keep it from running down. That's what I use on my TV since I don't drive it that much. My last battery lasted 10 years.
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:25 AM   #16
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As others have said do the initial cool down with shore power. I do a lot of boondock camping but use a solar panel to charge the battery in the day. A good will run over night but 15 hours is probably pushing it. My fridge draws 2.3 amps when running off the battery. plus you must include any phantom loads such as displays on radio/DVD player, LP gas detector and other things that draw power when turned off. When my original battery died I upgraded from the 24 size battery to a 27 which required a new battery box. But allowed me to increase the battery capacity t0 125 amp/hr. Save you battery and cool the fridge from shore power is best approach.
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Old 03-07-2016, 11:08 AM   #17
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You are good. The fridge itself if on Propane doesn't draw a lot of amperage. Have run several days with a single battery without issue.
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:11 AM   #18
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Humidity Control on Refrigerator

We just tore the fridge out of our houseboat, and I discovered that there was a switch on the bottom of the freezer door that turns the humidity control heating coil in the door on and off. I believe that will run on 12 volt as well as 110. On 12 volt it will decrease your battery life. In the southwest where I live, it is never needed. I've heard the new ones don't have the switch, and need to be disconnected at the light inside the fridge.
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Old 04-03-2016, 06:33 PM   #19
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I had a Rockwood 3006W with a single battery on a 8 cu. Ft. Dometic fridge and would fire up 12 hrs in advance with no issues. Assuming that the battery is fully charged. I kept a solar trickle charger on the battery while in storage.
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Old 04-03-2016, 11:38 PM   #20
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If you're gonna run your fridge on your batteries only, I'll bet it will run until it kills the batteries.. This will be evident by the CO detector chirping like your house smoke detector does with a dying battery... (Speaking from experience after running out of propane one night)...
On propane you should have no issues the night before.. We leave our trailer connected to shore power between weekend trips to save emptying the fridge and freezer..
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