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02-20-2017, 01:47 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 278
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How would you recommend repairing this (interior wall/roof)?
Top of ceiling to wall corner is soft. I had a little fungus growing on it last year. Dealer removed and recaulked it. They said on the roof they did some additional silicone sealing. I've walked the roof and looked really closely and I can't see any spot that seems to have any issues. Still i noticed the wall is soft in that area and a little sag.
I am beyond my warranty now and thinking to fix this properly I'd need at the minimum the same wall paper, one of those joint seams (on ceiling) and then I can take the cabinets off, open up that area and determine the extent of the damage. Is it old damage or new. Perhaps a moisture meter?
How would you recommend getting the same exact wall paper and the matching roof seams? I am quite technical and able. I'm not an uber RV guy but I do lots of home repair, my cars, motorcycles etc. these things can't require a rocket scientist. However without access to the right repair material it'd be a real visual eye sore.
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TH : 2016 Stealth WA2916
TV : 2012 Ford F-250 PSD
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02-20-2017, 02:08 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,916
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One of my worst nightmares... could have come from anything on the roof/wall/cap/slide area depending on what is there and where it's at.
__________________
2017 Puma 297RLSS
2005 Ram 2500 4X4 diesel SMOKER!!
I love puns, irony and tasteless jokes...
born in Texas.... live in Arkansas
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02-20-2017, 02:50 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 278
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I had the thought about the slide because the first time it was in for service they replaced all the rubber sealing on it. Then when it rained water came in on the top of the slide down the side and on to the floor. I took it in and they replaced all the rubber seals. Ever since then it's had insane rain and I never see a drop (I did before like I said). So maybe that was the cause and this is just old stuff. Maybe it still leaks in. Maybe a totally different leak
Damn shame that the dealer just recaulked and never checked behind but still charged $700. These things r such a scam.
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TH : 2016 Stealth WA2916
TV : 2012 Ford F-250 PSD
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02-20-2017, 03:25 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,916
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IMO if it wasn't that way a time ago....and got that way then you still have a leak. Is there a light outside in that area? Awning attachment? Seam in the trim/roof? It's getting/gotten in there somehow.
__________________
2017 Puma 297RLSS
2005 Ram 2500 4X4 diesel SMOKER!!
I love puns, irony and tasteless jokes...
born in Texas.... live in Arkansas
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02-20-2017, 05:41 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannacamp
IMO if it wasn't that way a time ago....and got that way then you still have a leak. Is there a light outside in that area? Awning attachment? Seam in the trim/roof? It's getting/gotten in there somehow.
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There is a light right outside that area I believe. I looked at it and it looked sealed up well. It is just an oval light that is orange/amber. I will bring a ladder over to my storage and see how taht comes off/on. I did hang over the edge, check the top of it and its got a nice bead of silicone over it that looked good.
Water is a real PITA, since technically it can come from anywhere and gravity does the rest.
__________________
TH : 2016 Stealth WA2916
TV : 2012 Ford F-250 PSD
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02-20-2017, 06:08 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Posts: 3,225
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Can you post a pic of the exterior and roof where this area is? That will help us help you.
Is the darker area a stain or the wall paper colors?
If you have a filon exterior, you will never get the interior panel off due to the sandwich glue.
( Without a lot of damage )
Edit: I looked at a video of your unit. It looks like your AC and refer vent are directly above the leak. I would remove both and reseal. That is your source of water if I am right on location. I would start with the refer vent.
__________________
2017 Salem Villa Estate 395RET-
2011 Coachmen Freedom Express 295RLDS- Sold
2015 F-250 FX4
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02-20-2017, 07:02 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 278
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__________________
TH : 2016 Stealth WA2916
TV : 2012 Ford F-250 PSD
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02-20-2017, 07:07 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 278
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__________________
TH : 2016 Stealth WA2916
TV : 2012 Ford F-250 PSD
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02-20-2017, 07:15 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,916
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I assume there is no warranty involved? Looks like a factory repair if it is a warranty issue. IMO
Why they charge you on a 2017 trailer?
__________________
2017 Puma 297RLSS
2005 Ram 2500 4X4 diesel SMOKER!!
I love puns, irony and tasteless jokes...
born in Texas.... live in Arkansas
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02-20-2017, 07:23 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 278
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How would you recommend repairing this (interior wall/roof)?
No warranty. Bought June 2015 (2016 model) and had 11 claims during that 1 year. Had it sitting in storage since April 2016 and went to grab it July 2 2016 and saw the issue. Emailed Robbie at forest river right away saying I'm like less than 1 month beyond. Took my dealer months to get me in. Took over a month for forest river to deny me. Then took time to fight it. Ultimately all FR approved was re latex caulk the inside where u see it (mold was on the latex and the guy guessed a leak and applied silicone over the slide out area. He was throwing darts basically and had no idea. Masked the issue. Now we are feb 2017. Even further from when my warranty ended. I have an extended warranty but I asked the dealer today about the claim process they said this wouldn't qualify. It's not damage cover but things breaking. I then asked about my progressive insurance policy and he said no he can't see them approving it. He said if a tree fell on my trailer and caused the leak and it rained and there was damage ok. But not this.
Ugh
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TH : 2016 Stealth WA2916
TV : 2012 Ford F-250 PSD
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02-20-2017, 07:27 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 278
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I'd take the cabinets off the wall (only on with 4 screws (2 per side) and remove the sofa then remove the strips between sections and remove the wall paper ceiling etc. -IF- I knew I had the pieces available to me to ultimately make it look new again. I can't get that wallpaper. I don't even know who makes this thin roof stuff. I don't even know what it is adhered to. It doesn't seem like plywood it feels thinner but something is behind it. Is it just studs with insulation and this thin material? The roof prob is plywood under the rubber sheeting since I can walk on it. Prob some solid framing too to support my weight
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TH : 2016 Stealth WA2916
TV : 2012 Ford F-250 PSD
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02-20-2017, 07:46 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9,678
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The other bad news is I doubt that you can match the ceiling or side panel wall paper exactly. It will probably be a shade or two off.
Friends had to replace a couple ceiling panels when a thief came to their house where their camper was stored and burnt the camper ceiling stealing the TV. The new ceiling panels never matched exactly.......... ( used a lighter for light and burnt the ceiling )
Good Luck
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2005 Dodge 3500 Cummins
2017 Wildwood Lodge 4092 BFL
1966 Mustang GT
1986 Mustang SVO
Lillie Spoiled Rotten Boxer Mix
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02-21-2017, 01:15 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 278
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Looking really close as that exact area on the roof I think I see a concern where the rubber roof stuff meets the black frame. Slight gap that I don't see elsewhere. I will fill the area in with silicone sealant well. It isn't going to fix the inside visual issue or any potential issues with what's under the visual. But hopefully stop it from occurring again. Just hoping.
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TH : 2016 Stealth WA2916
TV : 2012 Ford F-250 PSD
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02-21-2017, 01:30 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 15
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I would look for an alternative to silicone for that repair. I would use the dicor self leveling sealant or look for a way to use eternabond.
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02-21-2017, 01:32 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 278
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I'll check it out
I called my dealer. The inside panels are sold 4'x8'. No wall paper alone. Just a big panel. OK with me
Same with the ceiling. He says they are like 60-80 but shipping is generally that or more. I'm gonna reach out to FR.
If I seal it up I may try to fix the interior and remove anything under it that may show damage
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TH : 2016 Stealth WA2916
TV : 2012 Ford F-250 PSD
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02-21-2017, 01:50 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 278
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I have Dicor now. I'll clean the area and apply and ensure it's well sealed. Then do the same visual inspection around the entire coach. Thanks
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TH : 2016 Stealth WA2916
TV : 2012 Ford F-250 PSD
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02-21-2017, 01:53 PM
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#17
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RVdoctor
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 77
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wall damage
First off I would recommend pulling out the vinyl insert on roof trim thus exposing trim screws. Remove enough trim screws so that one can pull out trim to inspect exactly what is going on with roof. Does the roof material go all the way over the corner of roof or is it torn? If torn the roof will have to be repaired and then reinstall roof trim. Do not use silicon. Use a good grade sealer made for the type of roof material you have.
It looks as if you may have rotted wood at the ceiling or wall. You stated mold was present. You should be able to remove enough of the banton strip from ceiling and wall at the the damaged area to inspect. The wall panels and ceiling panels are manufactured with the covering on them. You may have to replace ceiling and wall panels if you want an exact match.Your unit is new enough that if you want to match the covering a dealer for your unit can order the matching panel for you.
Good luck as it won't be a small job to repair properly.
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02-21-2017, 05:00 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Posts: 3,225
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In Video #3 at 44 seconds exactly. I see three issues right below your hand. ZOOM in real close on stopped frame.
#1 - Below your palm, the sealant looks mildewed. (remove, clean and reseal)
#2 - Below your thumb, where the dark sticker meets the white, there is a goober there. What is that?
#3 - To the right of your hand, where the dark sticker comes to a point, there is a hole. Might just be an air bubble in the sealant?
I still recommend removing the refer vent and checking that.
You also may have to remove the vinyl screw cover out of the track below your hand and pull each screw in that area to see if it rusty. Inject sealant into screw hole and replace screw.
For the interior, it appears a truss might be damaged allowing the ceiling to dent the wall covering. I would cut back the dented area just enough to remove the bulge and see if it gets worse after sealing the exterior.
If it continues to mold or dent that sidewall then major surgery is required.
Keep us posted.
ps. Excellent camera work.
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2017 Salem Villa Estate 395RET-
2011 Coachmen Freedom Express 295RLDS- Sold
2015 F-250 FX4
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02-21-2017, 05:41 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchman12001
In Video #3 at 44 seconds exactly. I see three issues right below your hand. ZOOM in real close on stopped frame.
#1 - Below your palm, the sealant looks mildewed. (remove, clean and reseal)
#2 - Below your thumb, where the dark sticker meets the white, there is a goober there. What is that?
#3 - To the right of your hand, where the dark sticker comes to a point, there is a hole. Might just be an air bubble in the sealant?
I still recommend removing the refer vent and checking that.
You also may have to remove the vinyl screw cover out of the track below your hand and pull each screw in that area to see if it rusty. Inject sealant into screw hole and replace screw.
For the interior, it appears a truss might be damaged allowing the ceiling to dent the wall covering. I would cut back the dented area just enough to remove the bulge and see if it gets worse after sealing the exterior.
If it continues to mold or dent that sidewall then major surgery is required.
Keep us posted.
ps. Excellent camera work.
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I think this other video shows it better.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...-ynZUew9F2LVIS
I removed the white sealant, probably Dicor, and the silicone that was on-top of that, for about 12" across the whole area, really cleaned it out. Then I was able to get the track out of the way and fill the void with Dicor good. I then filled the entire length of that 12" area with dicor and as the rail seated down it squeezed out to the top a lot, which i smoothed over a bit. I assume as it went down, some would squeeze out below the rail inside area, which is fine with me.
The bubble is a bubble in the logo. The video doesnt really show it well, but it looks completely harmless.
I feel pretty confident looking at the entire patch of the 12" length that no water will get in there anymore. I am concerned with inside, perhaps a truss damaged, etc. I am waiting for a call back from Forest River on this and I will decide where to go after speaking with them. If I can get a new ceiling and new wall and its reasonably priced, i may just do as you said and cut out that corner and see what we have going on. If it doesnt look horrible and in need of immediate attention (I assume not), I may leave it for a bit and inspect again after the next rain and this also gives more time to dry. Then perhaps get in there and if it means replacing a truss, reinforcing areas, etc. OK. It gives me time to get the wall and ceiling pieces, which I am in San Diego, they are in Rialto, so about 1.5 hour each way, or I just pay the $150 shipping. TBD after they call me.
__________________
TH : 2016 Stealth WA2916
TV : 2012 Ford F-250 PSD
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02-21-2017, 05:48 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Posts: 3,225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMG
I think this other video shows it better.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...-ynZUew9F2LVIS
I removed the white sealant, probably Dicor, and the silicone that was on-top of that, for about 12" across the whole area, really cleaned it out. Then I was able to get the track out of the way and fill the void with Dicor good. I then filled the entire length of that 12" area with dicor and as the rail seated down it squeezed out to the top a lot, which i smoothed over a bit. I assume as it went down, some would squeeze out below the rail inside area, which is fine with me.
The bubble is a bubble in the logo. The video doesnt really show it well, but it looks completely harmless.
I feel pretty confident looking at the entire patch of the 12" length that no water will get in there anymore. I am concerned with inside, perhaps a truss damaged, etc. I am waiting for a call back from Forest River on this and I will decide where to go after speaking with them. If I can get a new ceiling and new wall and its reasonably priced, i may just do as you said and cut out that corner and see what we have going on. If it doesnt look horrible and in need of immediate attention (I assume not), I may leave it for a bit and inspect again after the next rain and this also gives more time to dry. Then perhaps get in there and if it means replacing a truss, reinforcing areas, etc. OK. It gives me time to get the wall and ceiling pieces, which I am in San Diego, they are in Rialto, so about 1.5 hour each way, or I just pay the $150 shipping. TBD after they call me.
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Sounds like you caught it before it got real bad. Good job getting that area sealed up.
Keep us posted after the next rain or hose treatment.
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2017 Salem Villa Estate 395RET-
2011 Coachmen Freedom Express 295RLDS- Sold
2015 F-250 FX4
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