Installing a Progressive Industries HW30C 30

[bheston]

Hello,

Last summer we had our A/C fail in our 2014 Coachman TT. Dometic replaced under warranty so I was happy they stood behind their warranty. Anyway, that got me thinking about the need for a surge suppressor / voltage management system. We set up our unit at the same place and leave it for the summer. We've have power failures at the park on a normal basis.

So, I just ordered my PI HW30C 30 from Amazon. I will install next weekend. Anybody have any installation advice?

[TURBS]

Very easy , btw Knowing what I know know I'd have ordered a 50 amp ems for your 30 amp camper so when you purchase your next camper and it's a 50 amp unit you could have taken it with you.


2008 2500hd Duramax
2015 Columbus 320RS
2016 nights camped "0"
2015 nights camped "34"

[davel1971]

it comes with very clear instructions and good pictures.

[bheston]

I'm having feelings that I don't want to put the remote readout somewhere that would be always visible and thus annoying. I do want to see it, but I'm thinking it would be better hidden inside a cabinet. Would you folks agree?

[Davidg]

Originally Posted by bheston

I'm having feelings that I don't want to put the remote readout somewhere that would be always visible and thus annoying. I do want to see it, but I'm thinking it would be better hidden inside a cabinet. Would you folks agree?

I'm thinking along the same line. I have an HW50 ordered which should arrive next week. I would like to place the remote digital readout where I can easily monitor on a regular basis, but I'd also like to be able to see it when I initially plug into the pedestal. I cannot do both, but I'm leaning toward placing it inside the coach. Not sure where yet, but there are only so many locations that are accessible. I'm still studying it.

[DRiveWell]

As far as being able to read the remote display from outside, this is generally not necessary as there is about a 15 second delay from "power on" at the pedestal until power is applied through the EMS. If there is a problem, no turn on. Otherwise you have time to go inside to monitor the turn on conditions.

[AquaMan]

Go to Home Depot and get a 3' section of 8/4 appliance cord. It will make the install much easier, as it is very flexible.

[Kanga99]

I installed my HW30 under the bath vanity behind an existing wood panel since that is where the power enters the trailer. I then mounted the display so it could be seen when I open the vanity door. Works great and out of the way. BTW, I also put a splash shield over the EMS box in case one of the H2O supply lines decides to rupture.

[Davidg]

Originally Posted by AquaMan

Go to Home Depot and get a 3' section of 8/4 appliance cord. It will make the install much easier, as it is very flexible.

For 50 amp, shouldn't it be 6 guage? I suppose for the short distance involved, 8 guage would be adequate. The 8/4 would be much easier to work with.

[CharlieS3]

Several notes.

The remote display is very minimalist. I Mounted mine over the bedroom closet, so I can easily check it. I don't even notice it unless I look for it.

6 Gauge is what you should use for 50 Amps regardless of length. 8 for 30.

[Iwannacamp]

I ordered the 50 amp for my 30 amp trailer... there is a small amount of smoke and mirrors to installing as 50 to 30 trailer, but it will work. I kinda had to stand on my head to install... and then I had a defective unit... so it complicated the install. In the end it all worked out. Doing it over??? I would prolly bite the bullet and buy the one I need and use it as an upgrade when selling. I also have no current plans to upgrade as new trailers are $50K and up.

[DSurette]

I found it helps some with #6 wire if you loosen the screws holding the contactor assembly and lift it out of the box slightly. Those #6 wires are very difficult to work with. And I mounted my monitor in the bay with the EMS.

[AquaMan]

Originally Posted by Davidg

For 50 amp, shouldn't it be 6 guage? I suppose for the short distance involved, 8 guage would be adequate. The 8/4 would be much easier to work with.

You are correct, but the OP is installing a 30amp unit. On the 50amp unit I installed in my coach, I used 6/4.


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[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Iwannacamp

I ordered the 50 amp for my 30 amp trailer... there is a small amount of smoke and mirrors to installing as 50 to 30 trailer, but it will work. I kinda had to stand on my head to install... and then I had a defective unit... so it complicated the install. In the end it all worked out. Doing it over??? I would prolly bite the bullet and buy the one I need and use it as an upgrade when selling. I also have no current plans to upgrade as new trailers are $50K and up.

You must be looking at the wrong dealer, my new Columbus 320rs was a ways south of 50k [emoji41][emoji106]


2008 2500hd Duramax
2015 Columbus 320RS
2016 nights camped "0"
2015 nights camped "34"

[Dinostop]

When I installed my Surge Guard this weekend I used 6 gauge and found the factory wiring from the fuse panel to the connection the outside of the trailer is 8 gauge for the 50 amp service my camper has

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Dinostop

When I installed my Surge Guard this weekend I used 6 gauge and found the factory wiring from the fuse panel to the connection the outside of the trailer is 8 gauge for the 50 amp service my camper has

Doesn't sound like that would pass rvia standards.id be checking into that


2008 2500hd Duramax
2015 Columbus 320RS
2016 nights camped "0"
2015 nights camped "34"

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by TURBS

You must be looking at the wrong dealer, my new Columbus 320rs was a ways south of 50k [emoji41][emoji106]


2008 2500hd Duramax
2015 Columbus 320RS
2016 nights camped "0"
2015 nights camped "34"

I try not to look...makes me happy and hurts my feelings at the same time.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[deartruc]

x2 with Turbs. His install will allow you to unplug and walk away. I hardwaire mine right with the WFCO so it will go whenever I get rid of my unit.

I like the remote display where you can read it i the camper. Kind of geekish so you can see the draw when you push that toaster button down, turn on the microwave, etc. (Means nothing to DW until it goes blank ).

[AquaMan]

In my 5er, I had the remote display mounted on the cabinet opposite the entry steps so I saw it every time I walked in. Problem was, every time I walked in I stood there and watched it until it made a complete cycle of both lines. On the Georgetown I got the one with the internal display and now I have to open a hatch to check it out, which there really is no need as it will take care of you if something is wrong.

[sgtlm17]

I agree with aquaman about using appliance wire. Regular wire was a pia to run. I mounted my remote display low near power converter which is near the floor. Wish I put it higher I already hate having to bend down to check it.