Leveling TT

[Adony]

I have yet to buy any sort of attachable levels to put on my trailer to aid in making sure it is level when at the camp site. Looking for recommendations or suggestions on which ones are the easiest or best to use based on others experience. It seems as though the RV accessories store has many to choose from, but which one? I have aluminum siding on my trailer so I think stick on ones would be the best vice drilling holes in the siding. Inputs for consideration?

[GingersDad]

We put the smallest and most basic level bubbles on our first 25 foot Travel Trailer. They worked. The were attached with the double sided tape. Thy would shift a small amount so they were never really perfect, but that was okay for us. We just got a new 8314BSS Rookwood. At 35 ft and having slides I wanted to more accurate. So while the dealer was getting it ready I asked them to put a set on while they had it on a nice level shop floor. I chose the Hopkins Graduated RV Levels #08525 about $10 at dealer. Graduated RV Levels
I have only used them a couple of times so far and like them. There are several other types listed on the website.

[EdJunior]

We also had the graduated levels on our old Skamper. Worked just fine. We have some for the new 5er, but haven't got them put on yet. One of those "round tuits"!

[red.jimbo]

I found some graduated levels at Walmart that I like a lot. (Sorry, no link on the wally-world website for reference. However they are the same as these: Graduated RV Level - $7.59) They were about $5. What I like about them is that one is graduated for length and the other for width. Therefore, they tell you how far off you are in inches.

I stuck them on my fiberglass TT with the included adhesive. At first, the adhesive would move a little, so--once they are on and level--DON'T TOUCH them for about 24 hours. After 24 hours they are more solid, and after 72 hours they were rock solid. if you are not satisfied with the adhesive, they have holes for attaching them with screws too.

[MikeInColo]

I've tried the bubble levels and the pan of water method.

The best thing I've used is just a cheap 9" level you can buy at Home Depot, Ace or even Target.

[Neville]

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a question regarding what you use to level vs. what you look at to determine level. We just bought a new 25' Forrest River-Flagstaff-MicroLite. Coming from a popup which was easy to level with a single axel BAL, what does everyone use to level their TT's, and how level does level need to be?

Thanks,
David

[LadyWindrider]

As long as you don't fall out of bed, it's close enough. (sorry, couldn't resist). I personally level the floor, usually at the door, check each way. I have found that when perfectly level, the kitchen sink keeps a puddle of water in the front of it, away from the drain. I can let the nose down about 1/2 inch and cure this. Check your house sometime for level, you might be surprised at what you are living with.

I also level side to side by pulling/backing on boards, then unhook and level front to rear with the tongue jack. Once level, crank the stab jacks down, and install wheel chocks between the tires.

[blake2727]

Another question on this subject. Where do you attach the levels? Do they have to be to the siding or can they be on the bumper or hitch or frame?

[LadyWindrider]

Put them where you or your helper can see them. On the rear bumper, and you will get tired of walking back there and seeing if you are level side to side. Also the bumper isn't very strong, and could get bent and, or you may back in to something and break your level. Rear bumper not recommended. Tongue not recommended, because of the angle it will never give a very true reading. I have mine on the front passenger side at eye level, one on the front wall, and one on the side wall. If you don't want them visible, install them lower. You can put them anywhere, even inside, once you get the trailer level with a long level first. You will need one on a front or rear wall for side to side. The other one on a side wall for front to rear level. Just remember you will be doing the walking, climbing, bending, etc., to look at them.

[flyrotor]

I bought the simple stick on's, bought two for each corner and I have side to side and length at each side, I initially level the trailer when unhooked with the tongue jack, then I adjust each a bit when extending the stabilizers, amazing how the front can be level and the back is off a bit, especially side to side, easily corrected with the stabilizers and I never have any door jam or rub when level on all four corners

[Acara]

Originally Posted by MikeInColo

I've tried the bubble levels and the pan of water method.

The best thing I've used is just a cheap 9" level you can buy at Home Depot, Ace or even Target.

Second this one....

I put one on the floor in the open doorway to the trailer (nose/tail level) and one on the rear bumper at centerline (side-to-side level).

[EdJunior]

Heh...if you have an iPhone (or iPod touch), guess what? There's an app for that. I have a level on the iPhone, and used that for my entire trip to Branson and Omaha and back. It worked great as well. Yeah...one of these days, I'll get the levels on there. When I get a round tuit!

[MtnGuy]

I put 1 stick-on level on the tongue (for front to rear leveling), and 1 on the front cross member (for side to side leveling). After getting those correct, I then use a torpedo level on the floor just inside of the door to tweak the leveling.

[Filthy Beast]

Oooops

[turbopuppy]

Neville

The thing you are trying to get level is the floor. If you use a builders or bullet level put it on the floor. Level front to back, then left to right. Then apply your stick on bubbles anywhere convenient or in multiple places.