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Old 07-08-2008, 08:01 PM   #11
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Rockport, ME
Posts: 9
Leveling preferences

It seems to me that a level coach is less important than back in the day when we first started camping. At the time (10-15 yrs ago) it was highly recommended that you use the fridge as the leveling point - both side-to-side and front-to-back. The reason was that if you sit for any period of time the ammonia mixture used for cooling would get "caught" and "pool" in one of the side s curves of the cooling coils. Of course in our case that meant that the stove was not level and cooking was a pain. It seems where-ever you chose to "level" something else will not be. I set our new Wilderness Creek to be level off the fridge just as a hold over from the old days. Unfortunately the sink doesn't drain all the way. One final pointer, if you have slideout(s) like we do, level the coach after they are deployed, it makes a difference - especially if you are a land surveyor , or anal retentive like me. I try to level the truck first, and then the camper in it. I do use those stick on levels, one on the side above the wheel and one on the back next to the door. I prefer the ones with the graduated scale that gives you an idea of how many inches off you are. But I have also find I can get darn close just by eye as previously suggested.


Mom & Me (both USAF Ret)
w/Jake & Buddy
2008.5 F-350SD SC
Lariat Long Bed w/6.4L Twin Turbo Diesel 6x6
2007 Palomino Prototype WinterCreek 11.5' Slideout TC loaded
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Old 02-12-2009, 11:46 PM   #12
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 13
I just do my best and open the bathroom door and the fridge and use that, as that will always make you mad if they move when you don't want them to!

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Old 02-13-2009, 09:28 AM   #13
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,260
Use the frame of the camper to level, the doors mean nothing. the walls of the camper on the interior may be out of square and if the frame is level and the walls are not square, the the doors will move. I have a bedroom door and a bathroom door and when my camper is level one door will swing close and the other will swing open. Check the door frames with a level to see where you are at. As far as the fridge go's, that's not a good indicator, if the bottom of the fridge is in too far in then the refidg door will swing open and just reverse if the top is in too far in it will close. RV's are not square and the walls move while in tow so use the most solid thing on the RV once you are parked to level. Once you get to know your RV, then level adjustments are minor. I do not need high tech lazer leveling devises, I tilt the front of my camper up just a little any way, but within the level range.
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Old 02-25-2009, 04:07 PM   #14
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Enterprise, Alabama
Posts: 61
I was told along time ago by a veteran camper that you never use the jacks to level the camper. Use some sort of blocks for side to side and the tongue jack for front to rear. I also use the Lynx leveling blocks they work great. I also get the rocking but have seen on here that if you use double chocks on the wheels or the ones that you scew out inbetween the tires that will help with the rocking.
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Old 02-25-2009, 07:40 PM   #15
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Location: Montgomery, Alabama
Posts: 273
Our Barker electric jack has a round level mounted in the top of it. The first few of trips after we mounted the jack I verified the accuracy of it's bubble. When I backed into a camp site, I checked side to side on that level, then placed a 2ft. framing level in the center of the floor side to side and used my 2x12s as needed. Then I leveled front to back checking both the jack's level and the one inside. My Barker jack level always read level with framing level. NOW it is all I use.

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