lippert Schwintek Maintenance

[billybigrigger]

Hi all!

I just spoke with a Lippert tech concerning Schwintek maintenance. I wanted to gauge forum reactions on what I was told. He advised me that the motors themselves need no lubrication but the rack can be lubricated with CRc dry lube. I also asked if they recommend rubber conditioners for the slide out seals and was told no. They only recommend soap and water for the seals as they do not want the seals to attract anything. So, I ask the forum, what do you do to maintain your Schwintek slide out and seals? Have you had any issues?

[grumpy0374]

Dry lube for the slide rails and gear teeth. Any type of grease or oil will attract and hold dirt. Once a year when I put the rig up for winter I clean the toothed rails with mineral spirits to clean any dirt/residue ond give em a fresh spray of dry lube.

303 Aerospace Rubber and Vinyl Protectant for all the seals, inside and out. Developed only for rubber and vinyl. It's pretty much the best stuff you can use, and there's alot of stuff out there. Does not attract or hold dirt. My 7 year old slide (3 of em) rubber and seals still look and work as new.
Never Never Never use silicone spray on the seals. Any overspray will remain on your rig forever and ever. It won't wipe off, nothing will ever stick to that area.
Grumpy

[rockfordroo]

Here's a bunch of Schwintek manuals, FYI.

If you haven't yet, you might want to start looking for the controller. They hide them in odd places. Mine is behind a panel with 2 hinges on one side and one hinge on the other. You have to unscrew the one hinge to open the panel. The single hinge is at the arrow in the pic below:



This is the controller:



If you google Schwintek Video you'll get videos on maintenance and manual override.

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by grumpy0374

Dry lube for the slide rails and gear teeth. Any type of grease or oil will attract and hold dirt. Once a year when I put the rig up for winter I clean the toothed rails with mineral spirits to clean any dirt/residue ond give em a fresh spray of dry lube.

303 Aerospace Rubber and Vinyl Protectant for all the seals, inside and out. Developed only for rubber and vinyl. It's pretty much the best stuff you can use, and there's alot of stuff out there. Does not attract or hold dirt. My 7 year old slide (3 of em) rubber and seals still look and work as new.
Never Never Never use silicone spray on the seals. Any overspray will remain on your rig forever and ever. It won't wipe off, nothing will ever stick to that area.
Grumpy

This is pretty much what I do. I will also "retime" the slides a couple of times a year if they make too much noise.

Aaron

[Johnfort]

I removed the single hinge and replaced it with a cabinet door catch. Then if I have to access the control I don't have to unscrew the door, just pop it open. Also centered the control in the opening so I could see it all.

[larry2c]

Instead of the CRC stuff they sell at the dealer and CW, I get this type of WD-40 at home depot. If you look at the ingredients on the CRC slide lube you will see it is the same PTFE compound but half the price - and it's just up the street at HD!

BTW, besides the manuals that were linked,

here's a YouTube video

that shows what the entire rack & drive system look like and how/where to lubricate it.

[billybigrigger]

So I spoke to Forest River today and was told they do not recommend any kind of conditioning or protectant for slide out seals. Spoke to Lippert and they said the same thing. Why would this be? I am not sure what to do, treat with something like 303 or not?

[Mogs78]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Here's a bunch of Schwintek manuals, FYI.



If you haven't yet, you might want to start looking for the controller. They hide them in odd places. Mine is behind a panel with 2 hinges on one side and one hinge on the other. You have to unscrew the one hinge to open the panel. The single hinge is at the arrow in the pic below:



Attachment 204500



This is the controller:



Attachment 204501



If you google Schwintek Video you'll get videos on maintenance and manual override.

[emoji22][emoji22]just saw this about 4 hours after taking my 2014 25KS to IVCC service department.

[larry2c]

Originally Posted by billybigrigger

So I spoke to Forest River today and was told they do not recommend any kind of conditioning or protectant for slide out seals. Spoke to Lippert and they said the same thing. Why would this be? I am not sure what to do, treat with something like 303 or not?

That's just the opposite of what the dealer we got our TT from said. They pushed hard to get us to buy the $15 can of seal treatment as well as the $15 can of slide lube. We passed - I use WD-40 Professional with PFET on the slide parts and 303 on the seals. I don't see how 303 or an equivalent could harm the seals - it just helps keep them pliable.

[Mogs78]

Originally Posted by Johnfort

I removed the single hinge and replaced it with a cabinet door catch. Then if I have to access the control I don't have to unscrew the door, just pop it open. Also centered the control in the opening so I could see it all.

I'm going to steal your idea after I get my TT back. The slide would only move a few inches on the front side but the rear top is stuck (racked). Tryed to retire but just wouldn't move.

[fella10]

Originally Posted by Johnfort

I removed the single hinge and replaced it with a cabinet door catch. Then if I have to access the control I don't have to unscrew the door, just pop it open. Also centered the control in the opening so I could see it all.

I also had to move my control box to the center of the opening because factory had mounted it to where if the slide out was out, I couldn't get to it, ... another way of changing that hinge is to pop out the hinge pin and replace it with a bent wire similar to a small Allen wrench, ... pull pin, door is open, ... factory had also blocked off access to my water heater with the same setup, I modded them both with the bent wire idea, ...

[Mogs78]

[emoji106] yep looks like a good idea to do both when I get her back. thanks

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by fella10

I also had to move my control box to the center of the opening because factory had mounted it to where if the slide out was out, I couldn't get to it, ... another way of changing that hinge is to pop out the hinge pin and replace it with a bent wire similar to a small Allen wrench, ... pull pin, door is open, ... factory had also blocked off access to my water heater with the same setup, I modded them both with the bent wire idea, ...

fella - were you able to pull the hinge pin without removing the hinge, or did you need to put some major "pull" on it? I didn't think these hinges are like your typical house door hinge where you can pop out the pin with a drift (or nail) and a hammer.

[Kc6tvu]

I’m in the process of moving my controllers, 1 you can’t get to with it’s slide out an the other you can’t get to with the slide in. Only took me 6 months of on an off looking to find that son of a gun behind the power center

[fella10]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

fella - were you able to pull the hinge pin without removing the hinge, or did you need to put some major "pull" on it? I didn't think these hinges are like your typical house door hinge where you can pop out the pin with a drift (or nail) and a hammer.

did that soon after getting the 25KS in early 2015, so it's been four yrs. and I've had to think about that, ... I did remove the hinge(don't think it would be easy to do without, but I didn't try), ... the best I can remember, those are small "caps" on the top and bottom of the pin, ... I pulled them off and then tapped the pin out with a small punch, ...

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by fella10

did that soon after getting the 25KS in early 2015, so it's been four yrs. and I've had to think about that, ... I did remove the hinge(don't think it would be easy to do without, but I didn't try), ... the best I can remember, those are small "caps" on the top and bottom of the pin, ... I pulled them off and then tapped the pin out with a small punch, ...

OK. Thanks.