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Old 11-08-2011, 07:56 AM   #11
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the pump cycling on and off...not sure what to make of that unless it is the battery.
last time i took mine out, the motor did not want to start when pulling the slides in. could hear a click. after a few tries, it came in and haven't had a problem sense.
will most likely go into it this winter and see if there is a relay w/burnt contacts.

on the slides, there are no gears in there. just the telescoping frame.
the first picture shows the shinny ram. the guides are a couple are at each side.
second picture shows the telescoping part near the wheel well. the picture was taken to show the crack in the frame. you really want to look at all 4 wheels for these. the will be above and to the inside of the spring hangers. u have a possibility of 2 per wheel (4 per axle). mine showed as a long bubble in the paint. scratched the bubble away and there was the crack.


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Old 11-08-2011, 09:35 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the input. I'm meeting with the owner tomorrow evening. I'll jumper it to my truck and see if the slides move in any better. I'll also check for the cracks.

I hope this works and the slides go in just fine. We've spent a lot of time working on this deal.

Cheers.
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Old 11-08-2011, 09:56 PM   #13
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JimH and All, Here is a couple pics of the under the slides. I see the ram Jim referred to but you can also see the horizontal gear (teeth facing the ground) in both pics. If the ram is pushing out the slide what is the purpose of the gear and is there anything driving it?

Bill
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:04 PM   #14
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The hydraulic cylinder pushes on one side of the box. To keep it from twisting in motion they use a gear rack that drives both sides at the same time.
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Old 11-09-2011, 12:50 AM   #15
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that is different from mine. mine is driven from the center and has no gears. its simply brute force. when they drive from one side, i can see where it would try to twist. would assume there is a shaft behind the frame with a gear on each end to insure the slides come out together. that would mean the bearings on that shaft would need to have lubrication.
i can also see there no supports bolted between the spring supports from one side to the other (there will be three and they will run parallel to the axle. if u have no frame cracks, those supports will need to be added to redistribute the stress on the frame. the supports are recommended by Lippert.
u have the frame and the sub frame like mine. the sub frame is the 2" square tubing that is welded to the frame and spring supports are welded to.
those cables hang quiet a bit. they are usually tied to those thin rods. they do nothing other than supply a place to support the wires. that is a quick and easy fix. just add a couple cable ties.
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Old 11-09-2011, 12:02 PM   #16
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Hello Bill,

This comment is from someone with absolutely no experience with 'slide outs' but I am looking at the 'ram' in your first picture and I see double lock nuts on the inside (tire side) of the welded 'L' bracket and then about an 1 1/2" space and then a 'single' nut on the outer threaded area. What happened to the other nut. Aren't you supposed to be able to adjust the point of engagement on the 'L' bracket and then lock it all together? It seems to me that the jerkiness pulling back in is because of the 'play' between the nut and the 'L' bracket. The whole slide out may be cocked because of that space. Check the other side of the slide out and see if all the nuts are properly in place on the ram and tightened. Just my 2 cents.

Clyde
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Old 11-09-2011, 12:14 PM   #17
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Correction

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyd View Post
You're right to question the action of the slide. My slide runs off the coach battery. If the battery is not turned on, slide will not move, in or out, regardless of whether or not it is plugged into shore power. Charge or replace the battery you believe to be dead and then give it another go. "Trust but verify." A little sticking now could turn into a major jam-up later. Good luck and welcome.
To correct myself: My slide WILL operate with the battery turned off as long as I'm plugged into shore power.
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Old 11-09-2011, 01:22 PM   #18
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Ii believe the reason for the gaps between the nuts on the ram is for allowance for the travel of the ram. (wont keep trying to push or pull after slide has reached full travel.
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:44 PM   #19
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I've also looked at a 2006 Cardinal 33 footer and saw the same gap between the nuts. I tend to agree it's for allowance and tollerance. It appears the design of the hardware isn't exactly precision fit.


Met with the owners again and connected the truck batteries to the trailer, plugged it in and cycled the slides. Lo and behold all of them went out and in just like you'd expect. In fact, twice the two large rear slides would retracted almost at the same time. No jerking or inching at all. The owner looked at me and said he would have never guessed the current from a good battery would have made that much difference. Me too.

Jim - I looked for frame cracks around each wheel. Even scatched the paint in a couple spots if it looked irregular. The owner probably was wondering what the heck I was doing. Didn't find anything.

Tires need to be replaced. Saw some craking on the sidewalls and the owner said they are at least 5 years old.

This deal just might go thru.
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Old 11-09-2011, 11:02 PM   #20
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See, I told you in the introductions that if I was allowed to stick around I might just learn something - Well, I just did!

Thanks everyone

Clyde
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