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Old 12-20-2017, 04:40 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by aircommuter View Post
To explain why the grease drips oil out of your gun is because you need to release the spring pressure on the gun when not in use. Grease is nothing more than oil in suspension, variations include lithium, and barium which is best for marine because of its resistance to water. There are several suspension compounds for different applications. If you keep squeezing it with the spring and temperatures go up and down it releases the oil.
What aircommuter said. The oil in conventional NLGI No 2 grease will separate from its soap (lithium, barium etc) when stored under pressure. Release the pressure in the gun and life will return to normal.
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Old 12-20-2017, 06:36 AM   #22
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[QUOTE=SlowrideHD;1690977 Anyway, my point being: how many people grease their car spindle bearings with the same attention? Many vehicles, according to my trusted mechanic, run their entire lives of 10-15 years use and have never had spindle bearings greased and do so without failure.[/QUOTE]

I've been trying to drive this point home forever. Cars and trucks go 100,000 miles or more with no attention paid to the bearings, yet people think their trailer bearings need it every year, which isn't even a 1000 miles for some. If it's done right with quality grease, it doesn't need yearly repacking or a few pumps each trip.
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Old 12-20-2017, 01:24 PM   #23
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synthetic Vs Petroleum

Petroleum based lubricants always contain some parts of the crude oil that are of no use for lubrication, they are just there and do not impede the lubrication. Synthetic lubes are mostly poly.alpha.olifin based and is 100% lubricant. To either base lubricant additives are included for a variety of purposes. In engines, synthetic is far superior as it retains better physical properties and stability over the life of the lube.

Grease is an oil/lube that (in most cases) added to soap to thicken the oil so to better "stick" to the rotating parts. Separation is common and if you see this happen in the container just mix it back in. Grease based on synthetics will be superior as a lube but, with my experience with wheel bearings on trucks, cars, and airplanes synthetic is not needed. I would consider a bearing grease that is resistant to water like is used for boat trailers. I use this type grease for my boat trailer and my 5er. All wheel bearing greases are made for the cone style bearings so, just about any wheel bearing grease will work. They are all made for the same application.

Properly "packing" the bearings is the important part. Make sure all the cleaning agent is removed and the bearing is dry before packing. Press grease into the large open end (side) of the bearing (between the rollers, inner race, and roller cage) until it comes out the other end (side) all the way around. Always slather a good coating on the cone race before placing the bearing. That is all that is required. Adding more grease really isn't necessary but most of us do that anyway. That will get you a couple years of travel before the next bearing/brake inspection and bearing repack.
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Old 12-20-2017, 01:28 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by sasems View Post
Properly "packing" the bearings is the important part. Make sure all the cleaning agent is removed and the bearing is dry before packing. Press grease into the large open end (side) of the bearing (between the rollers, inner race, and roller cage) until it comes out the other end (side) all the way around. Always slather a good coating on the cone race before placing the bearing. That is all that is required. Adding more grease really isn't necessary but most of us do that anyway. That will get you a couple years of travel before the next bearing/brake inspection and bearing repack.
X2, the old fashioned method has worked well for Decades and will always prevent you from blowing out your inner seals
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Old 12-20-2017, 04:32 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by davel1971 View Post
I've been trying to drive this point home forever. Cars and trucks go 100,000 miles or more with no attention paid to the bearings, yet people think their trailer bearings need it every year, which isn't even a 1000 miles for some. If it's done right with quality grease, it doesn't need yearly repacking or a few pumps each trip.
Almost every single wheel bearing on cars these days are sealed bearings which is why you don't hear about people packing them.
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Old 12-20-2017, 04:40 PM   #26
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Almost every single wheel bearing on cars these days are sealed bearings which is why you don't hear about people packing them.
Even before cars and trucks had sealed wheel bearings (and yes, Im old enough to remember that) we would clean and repack the front wheel bearings every 50,000 miles.

Grease Is Not consumed in use. I NEVER had one fail when they were packed correctly.
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Old 12-20-2017, 04:57 PM   #27
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Grease Is Not consumed in use. I NEVER had one fail when they were packed correctly.
Agreed.
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Old 12-21-2017, 10:44 AM   #28
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The bearings used for trailers are actually rated for a lot higher RPM than what they actually experience with trailers. Because of that, there is no drawback for keeping hubs full. In fact, most hubs that are buddy bearing or EZ-lube are completely full of grease by design.

I have friends that are mechanical engineers that specify bearings and they say the exact same thing.
When the cavity is pumped full of grease and it gets warm (or hot) and expands to leak through the seals, that is when brakes become grease contaminated and fail.
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Old 12-21-2017, 11:13 AM   #29
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When the cavity is pumped full of grease and it gets warm (or hot) and expands to leak through the seals, that is when brakes become grease contaminated and fail.
That's why you leave room at the cap. With Buddy Bearings there is a spring that compresses as the grease gets warmer. I have a boat trailer with the hub full of grease that gets pumped up until the buddy bearing piston just starts to move. Never had grease leak out the rear seal.
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