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Old 05-01-2019, 12:16 PM   #1
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Need advice on Georgetown328 Bathroom Countertop Replacement

Georgetown 328. The laminate on the bathroom countertop separated due to moisture. We want to replace it with a single material countertop like Corian (but are open to suggestions regarding the material but we want a single material, not laminate). I spoke to Forest River and they can send me a new laminate counter...but I don't want that. Questions:
1. What is the best way to remove the countertop from the cabinet that it sits upon. I know I have to remove the sink and water taps first.
2. Has anyone here sourced a custom countertop and installed it themselves. If so, how did you do it...did you supply a drawing of your countertop...did you take the countertop off and give it to them to copy?
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Old 05-01-2019, 12:57 PM   #2
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I have only installed a Formica (laminate) counter myself (in my basement bar/mini-kitchen). We measured and were able to use 2 stock pieces from Home Depot.

After measuring very carefully (and re-measuring 6 times), I cut the openings myself. On the first go-around of measuring, I discovered the sink we had bought was really too big from back to front for the countertop we had. Went and got a different sink before we cut.

On the mitered corner, despite my measurement and re-measurement I still got it wrong. Luckily, I had cut too big and we were able to save ourselves without buying more countertop.

There should be some support brackets or clamps which are screwed into the existing laminate and cabinet uprights. In most cases that I have seen, the faucets and valves share the sink hole in the countertop with the sink (much easier to deal with). The sink itself is pre-drilled for the faucet and valves.

Hope this helps
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:42 AM   #3
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Fred, thanks very much! I looked for brackets. As far as I can see, the counter cabinet and countertop are all one piece. The countertop sits on a small wooden frame. Looks like I'll have to take the sink and faucets off, remove the screws that I can see, and see if I can gently pry it up and see if there are any surprises. I will work with a local countertop installer.
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:47 AM   #4
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Here's a pic of the countertop

Here is a pic of the countertop.
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Old 05-02-2019, 01:30 PM   #5
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Countertops

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Originally Posted by Gerald S View Post
Georgetown 328. The laminate on the bathroom countertop separated due to moisture. We want to replace it with a single material countertop like Corian (but are open to suggestions regarding the material but we want a single material, not laminate). I spoke to Forest River and they can send me a new laminate counter...but I don't want that. Questions:
1. What is the best way to remove the countertop from the cabinet that it sits upon. I know I have to remove the sink and water taps first.
2. Has anyone here sourced a custom countertop and installed it themselves. If so, how did you do it...did you supply a drawing of your countertop...did you take the countertop off and give it to them to copy?
I've had countertops made for the sticks-and-bricks place in 1995. The countertop place insisted on sending someone to the house to take measurements. I did the install. The dimensions were perfect.

If I were you, I'd remove the old countertop and call local countertop fabricators. Let them know you have the old countertop and that they are welcome to come out and measure. That puts the onus on accurate dimensions on them, not you.

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Old 05-02-2019, 06:25 PM   #6
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I installed a man made marble sink top in a size to fit the cabinet. Was an easy job. Used construction adhesive to fasten top to cabinet.
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:33 AM   #7
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Thank you newcowg! I appreciate the advice and may make my own out of plywood and flooring (as others online have done) and just seal it well and glue it on!
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:36 AM   #8
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Thanks Larry, considering the cost which will be about 400 dollars, I'm thinking of making my own with plywood and flooring scraps. I'll just seal it really well to prevent mold. This will be a first time for me, but the costs of cabinet makers for what basically is a 4.8 sq ft counter...it's $100 per square foot.
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:46 AM   #9
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You may have already figured this all out, but I think many people have made a template of the counter top and made a trace and cut. Truth is if you remove the top the new counter can be to your specs as long as it covers the counter and fits your sink. You can be creative. On my unit I have at least 2 feet on the right that I would utilize 6+ inches for extra counter space. YMMV
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Old 05-11-2019, 06:41 PM   #10
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Here it is so far. We have so much wood grain in here that we thought we'd give it a solid finish...we've not applied a finish yet. Anyone have suggestions on a good solid color waterproof finish? I glued the exposed edges. It's a nice piece of Birch plywood for about 20 dollars as Corian would have been about 200. No need to warn me about getting it wet, I'm waterproofing it. On the original counter, there was no seal between the wall and the counter. Water got into the laminate covered particle board near the wall and swelled it. So, I'm also going to seal the edges that butt up against the wall once installed. I'm open to suggestions about how to seal it, one option would be a backsplash. A metal backsplash fastened onto the counter top (so water could not get behind it) would be great, but I haven't looked for one and don't know if it's available... I could just seal the counter next to the wall with silicone sealant, but would the shake, rattle and roll of driving break the seal. Anyway, here's the pic. I made a template and then used a workshop at the RV park (nice owner let me use it).
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Old 05-11-2019, 08:03 PM   #11
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The only “water proof” IMO is going to be epoxy(IE fiberglass resin), but a real wood person may have a better idea. Paint has come a long way.
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Old 05-11-2019, 08:13 PM   #12
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x2 epoxy resin. See the latest issue of Wood Magazine.
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Old 05-12-2019, 02:16 PM   #13
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X3 on epoxy resin to seal the wood. Then if you are painting it like you said, I would go with a 1 part urethane topside marine paint. It's made to be outside in the weather (but not submerged 100% of the time on the bottom of the boat - that's why it called "topside" paint). Good brands will smooth and level out as it sets.

Only problem is by the time you buy a small epoxy kit and a small amount of marine urethane paint, it's another $100 over what you have already.

Here is a link to US Composites epoxy resin page. Their 635 thin epoxy with the 3:1 medium hardener (medium is how fast it sets) is only $15.75 for 16oz of resin and 5.3oz of hardener. That should probably be enough to seal your wood. Or the full quart kit is only $23. This is the 2 liquids only, no mixing container, no measureing pump (they have those if you need them).

http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html#epoxhard
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Old 05-12-2019, 05:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dward51 View Post
X3 on epoxy resin to seal the wood. Then if you are painting it like you said, I would go with a 1 part urethane topside marine paint. It's made to be outside in the weather (but not submerged 100% of the time on the bottom of the boat - that's why it called "topside" paint). Good brands will smooth and level out as it sets.

Only problem is by the time you buy a small epoxy kit and a small amount of marine urethane paint, it's another $100 over what you have already.

Here is a link to US Composites epoxy resin page. Their 635 thin epoxy with the 3:1 medium hardener (medium is how fast it sets) is only $15.75 for 16oz of resin and 5.3oz of hardener. That should probably be enough to seal your wood. Or the full quart kit is only $23. This is the 2 liquids only, no mixing container, no measureing pump (they have those if you need them).

http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html#epoxhard


Good info. Bunches of videos online about epoxy application. Only word of advice... be ready to use as soon as you mix...you only get to do it once.
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Old 05-12-2019, 05:04 PM   #15
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Need advice on Georgetown328 Bathroom Countertop Replacement

One other thing....Formica has come along way if you haven’t decided against it. If you cut your wood top out...and aren’t familiar/want to cover it...any cabinet man would/could cover it inexpensively. I suggest using 5/8 or 3/4 treated plywood ... iduuno it all depends on your skill set.
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