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Old 04-22-2014, 08:23 PM   #21
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Me and a friend did it. First we went easy route changed the wiring harness was around $80 when that didn't work I called another friend that has 7.3 also. He came over and suggested checking all the wires for bare wires then, we pulled his IDM and hooked it to my harness. Truck fired right up. We hooked mine back up and it ran like crap again. I could have got one cheaper but, it would have been a few days and I needed my truck running today so I had to pay $410 + the gubmint had to get their cut. Bottom line truck is running like a champ again and I was able to pick up the 5ver today.
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Old 04-23-2014, 09:15 AM   #22
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Sounds like you got a couple of real good friends..... Glad you got her going.


I love my 7.3 .

One in-law has a 7.3
One in-law has I think a 2010 F-250 Diesel.... I think he said he has to take the Cab off to work on his engine ......

And one in-law has a chebby.... (he is married to my wife's sister so we have to claim him as part of the family, one in every wood pile )
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:40 PM   #23
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I recently had two problems.

Starting problems are often the CPS. I used a #10 socket to change the CPS--1/4" drive with an extension. It's kind of a tight fit without jacking the truck up. I have a very heavy set of ramps that helps.

Then my truck would not idle. I'd start and die. Then it ran really rough. I went behind the fuel filter to the right and unplugged the fuel injection module. It's just little electromagnet loses its magnetism over time and it wreaks havoc on your driveability. If the engine smooths out with it disconnected, you've diagnosed the problem.

From there, things get a little more complicated.

I replaced the two, and my 116K mile truck again runs like it's brand new.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:19 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bamaman View Post
I recently had two problems.

Starting problems are often the CPS. I used a #10 socket to change the CPS--1/4" drive with an extension. It's kind of a tight fit without jacking the truck up. I have a very heavy set of ramps that helps.

Then my truck would not idle. I'd start and die. Then it ran really rough. I went behind the fuel filter to the right and unplugged the fuel injection module. It's just little electromagnet loses its magnetism over time and it wreaks havoc on your driveability. If the engine smooths out with it disconnected, you've diagnosed the problem.

From there, things get a little more complicated.

I replaced the two, and my 116K mile truck again runs like it's brand new.
I would suggest if you did not.... on your CPS to have put some Dielectric Grease on the o-ring and where it plugs into the connections. The CPS does not like moisture at all and will shut your truck off as if the key was turned off. I was in a light rain and drove through a good size puddle.... (60mph) truck died like you shut the key off. Started right back up and ran fine until the next big puddle. Did some research, put new o-ring and grease it and the connections up and all is good. Many people had said that it was the CPS and to change it out. CPS turned out to be good, just was not sealing out the moisture.

Behind (on) the fuel bowl is the connection for the fuel bowl heater. This is not needed unless you live in the great white north all year long. Good working Glow Plugs are all you need in the winter. Disconnect the Fuel Bowl Heater connection because if the element burns out, it will blow fuse #30 and your truck will not start. You may change the blown fuse, but it will keep blowing until you (bingo) unplug the Fuel Bowl Heater connection (and/or replace the burned out element that you do not need). This electrical connection (fuel bowl heater) also is the source for the 'water in bowl' announcer. Just open the fuel bowl drain every now and then to drain a little out of the bowl and you will be fine.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:27 AM   #25
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Just thought I post this. Was supposed to leave on the Thursday before Memorial day on a 5 day camping trip. On the Monday before the CEL started coming on again same code 1316 again. I am like WTH it can't be the IDM again truck was running fine but, the code scared me. We ran a diagnostic on it and it showed problems with 1,3,5 & 7 injectors. So I changed out passengers side wiring harness on Wednesday. Clear the code and crank it up CEL comes on same code. I am getting frustrated at this point. The truck is still running fine and the light goes out after it runs for a few minutes. So now I am debating what to do next. I decide to throw caution to the wind and take my chances on our trip was only 45 minutes away what's the worse that can happen. Our plan was to leave around 4pm on Thursday once the wife got home from work. So Thursday I am out running picking up stuff and truck is running fine. I get home and park the truck in position to hook up the 5ver later in the day. Around 3pm I go out to start the truck and it running like crap. Not as bad as the last time but it definitely not hitting on all cylinders (kinda like me sometimes). So now I am thinking it is the IDM again. I call the NAPA I got it from and they say it is warrantied for 18 months to bring it and they'll swap it for a new one. Problem is it is late in the day and I don't have time to get to the store before they close. So I pull the IDM out getting pretty quick at this by now (got it down to about 10 minutes) and first thing Friday morning I go to NAPA get the IDM go home put the new one in cranked it up and the Beast lived. Hooked up the camper and head for the campground. That was a week and a half ago and haven't had a problem hope this one was "Re-manufactured" correctly.
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Old 06-03-2014, 06:47 PM   #26
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My biggest complaint is finding someone that really knows their "light" diesels. You know, really knows them without throwing expensive parts at what the "think" the problem is.

I cannot afford $100 dealership labor rates. I found a specialty shop charging $60 hourly rates, but I've figured out their mechanic's a yokel.

I honestly have had better luck going on TheDieselStop.com and reading all that's been said about a particular trouble code, and how to diagnose it. Some of those guys are PowerStroke and diesel genius'. For transmission questions, they have an ex-Ford mechanical engineer that worked on these transmissions, and his knowledge is incredible.
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Old 06-03-2014, 08:11 PM   #27
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Once you understand the inputs and outputs of the pcm & ficm, and with a little experience, it's easy to narrow down the search. Then out of the 2 or 3 things it could be, alot of the time you rule out what it isn't.
If that makes sense.
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Old 06-03-2014, 08:16 PM   #28
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Quality is like buying oats. If you want nice, clean, fresh oats you have to pay a fair price.

However, if you can make do with oats that have been through the horse that comes cheaper down the street!

Signed- Former dealer mechanic that used to have trucks brought in from yokels so I could fix it right, sometimes even from across the shop I worked in.

There's dealer mechanics that know their stuff, there's independent shops as well, but there's bottom feeders throughout both worlds. The trick is finding that good one and sticking with them, wherever they are.
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Old 07-11-2014, 09:45 PM   #29
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I was driving down the road last week, and my 7.3 just shut off @ 45 mph. Started right up. Next day, it started running crazy--up and down on rpm's. Then it ran fine.

It then started running rough--with me on a boat ramp with a 24' boat trailered.

I unplugged the Fuel Injection module behind the fuel bowl, and the engine smoothed out. NAPA replaced their part, and I installed it in about 45 seconds. The truck's running great now.

The NAPA counter man said don't fear if I have diesel problems. Two brothers have a local PowerStroke shop, and they're about the best there is on 7.3's and 6.0's. I found great reviews about them on the internet, so I'm good for the future.
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