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Old 09-23-2011, 05:41 PM   #11
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I had a friend do this as well ..... I guess he got lucky he just had to replace converter .
but not the whole panel . since i had retro fitted a intelli power converter in my wfco housing on my old tt we did the same to his . all was well after .
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:05 PM   #12
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first i would trip and reset all the breakers especially the main. (just in case one is tripped and doesn't appear to be tripped).
except for the main breaker, i don't know of anything else that protects the electrical.
pull the front on ur breaker panel and see if u have 110v between any of the breakers and the neutral buss. if u don't, i would check between the "park" supply at the main breaker and neutral. (just to make sure something isn't miswired, try checking voltage between neutral and ground; this should be zero).
if u don't have supply to the main, it has to be a problem in the supply cable.
if u get where i going, try to determine where ur loosing the electricity.
is the plug ur using at home live? was this the one that was rewired then put back?
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:41 PM   #13
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Start testing each piece of equipment/ circuit with your volt meter. Are you getting 110 at the junction box or connection point for the converter/AC/micro/refrig/etc?

If you have no power at the device the breaker might be bad.

If you are getting power to the device and the device is not working you might have cooked that device. How you fix each one may differ for each. Take them one at a time.

I once watched a coworkers plug a circular saw into a 110 outlet that someone had wired to 240. The saw, which did not have a blade guard, began spinning around the room without pulling the trigger. Inspite of the jolt the saw suffered no damage, the floor was a mess.

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Originally Posted by Shag
Ugh. Thanks for the responses. I should have waited until Monday to ask. This doesn't make me cheerful for the weekend. Anyway, thanks again for the feedback.
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Old 09-24-2011, 01:43 PM   #14
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I would suspect the converter is fried and the micro took a hit too, but if you had nothing else turned on hopefully it survived. If the fridge and the water heater were on the heating elements are probably burned out but are replaceable. The micro is probably repairable too, the damage should be limited to the circuit board which isn't difficult to replace. Hopefully the damage won't cost an arm and a leg, just a wrist or an ankle.
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Old 09-24-2011, 01:56 PM   #15
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microwaves are cheap now days. if it isn't a little fuse inside, probably isn't worth repairing. on some of the older micros, the fuse was ceramic instead of glass.
i'm hoping it isn't that serious.
u may want to take a closer look inside that converter before u spring for another.

on the bright side, if it didn't trip ur home breaker while u were on 220, u know ur neutral and ground were isolated.
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Old 09-24-2011, 03:23 PM   #16
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I had a power surge kill my converter in my old travel trailer, found this out at 9PM in a campground in rural vermont, when we finally finished driving for the day. This was the result of old wiring in our old "homebase" campground. I was able to get this fixed two days later at a same brand dealership close to where we had family staying in NewBrunswick. Not the same situation but I would bet a similar issue here. Ideally fuses, breakers, converters etc will sacrifice themselves to save the whole system when something like this is done.

Obviously you and your uncle learned a valuable lesson about checking things twice or more. I have been working in construction my whole life, and the only thing I can be sure of is that you can never be sure enough when it comes to what you are hooking up. It seems a common misconception about electrical plugs is that big ones are automatically higher voltage (you can actually reduce conductor size for higher voltages at a given amperage), your dryer, stove/oven, hot water heater etc are often run at higher voltages to save costs, but none of the stuff in most RV's use this so the 30 or 50Amp plug is just feeding the small "pony panel" in your unit. Jimh is right you should check all of the breakers, tripped ones often dont "throw" all the way back, and look fine at a glance.

If you are a handy person take the advice from some others here and test the system at different points with proper voltage hooked up so you can see if power makes it to each appliance or not. That will help you trouble shoot each device.

As I recall the total for parts and labour on the converter in my old unit was about
$280 with taxes included, so not catastrophic. And I got to visit with some of my extended family for an afternoon and go to the beach.
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:12 PM   #17
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I would suggest disconnecting the converter and sending it in for a repair estimate. In the mean time, you can purchase a battery charger and keep it connected to the battery. Your camper will run off the battery and the charger will keep the battery charged. My brother did this when his converter got fried and it worked out for him. I would suggest something a little larger than the standard 10 amp charger you see in stores. I saw a 50 amp charger on wheels at WalMart for under $100. You can expect to pay $150 - $400 for a new converter depending on the size.

RV Power Facts:

30 Amp - This is the common 30 amp RV connector with one half round pin and two large blades that are angled. The receptacle is an ANSI/NEMA TT-30R, and the plug is an ANSI/NEMA TT-30P. Obviously designed for RV's, these are rated for 120Volts/30Amps. The TT is for Travel Trailer as it is listed that way in the "Description" column in the NEMA Table.These can be connected to a 30 Amp breaker.

50 Amp - the common four pin configuration used for larger RV's. The receptacles are ANSI/NEMA 14-50R and the plugs are ANSI/NEMA 14-50P. The half round pin is ground, the blade directly across from it is Neutral, and the other two blades each have 120 Volts. If wired per the National Electrical Code, the two 120 Volt feeds are of opposite phases so that you get 240 Volts when you read across them and 120 Volts between each of them and neutral or ground. Each of the two power sockets can be wired to a 50 Amp breaker - for 240Volts, the two breakers are "ganged" (the handles are connected together) or are of a special design with only a single handle. However, some campgrounds may only have 30 or 40 Amp breakers on the power feeds to these receptacles.
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:23 PM   #18
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you can buy a brand new intellipower replacement convertor on ebay 151.00 shipped 60 amp . with charge wizard included
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:37 PM   #19
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I would be careful where you buy a replacement, WFCO does not honor warranties from ebay resellers. American rv and best converters are safe vendors.
Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
you can buy a brand new intellipower replacement convertor on ebay 151.00 shipped 60 amp . with charge wizard included
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:02 PM   #20
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I would be careful where you buy a replacement, WFCO does not honor warranties from ebay resellers. American rv and best converters are safe vendors.
If you would have bothered to read the original post you would have known that the unit is 4 to 5 years old negating the warranty issue .
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