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Old 08-12-2016, 10:07 AM   #1
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New guy here, bought an older Flagstaff 23LB

Hi all,

This is my first post and first TT. I have always enjoyed camping way back from when I was in the scouts to now in my mid 30's. I love tent camping, solo backpacking and pull the vehicle up to the site camping. On my last camping trip 2 weeks ago with my wife and daughter, we got to thinking about taking it further. We are recent new homeowners and at this point in our lives couldn't justify the cost of a camper just yet. However, I am in the construction business and have been doing my own minor and major vehicle repairs since I started driving. I also love to tinker and build/customize things because then I feel like I have a part of me in it. So I found and bought a project for me to take on.

I just purchased an older Flagstaff 23LB (year 2000?). Question mark on the year because I have not yet been able to confirm until the owner gets the replacement title in the mail and I have yet to find any manufacturing plates on it.

The general body is in good condition as is the trailer. All appliances, plumbing, etc work. It did suffer from a leaking roof at one point or another and the previous owner actually rebuilt the roof (no interior roof cladding installed when I bought it so I can tell he did a great structurally sound job.) The interior is trashed. I will be replacing the floor, interior wall panels, cabinetry and front bed structure (the bunk bed wood is in top shape.) I will be redoing most of the interior electric since reconfiguration and demo will mean I'm moving/replacing lighting.

I'm happy to take this project on (otherwise I wouldn't have bought it). I get a lot of enjoyment creating and customizing things. Good thing is I can pretty much pimp out the layout how I want now.

My questions are:

1. Where would the serial number/vehicle info plate be? I looked all over the front of the camper, trailer tongue, around the door, etc and can't find anything. Only things I found that might be close was a tag by the door which stated something like "this was manufactured in accordance to all electrical codes, etc..." and it had a unique 6 or 8 (?) digit number on it (but it didn't say serial number or anything like that)

2. What is the floor construction? Obviously the wood deck material but am I to assume there is styrofoam underneath and some type of wood joist framing that sits on top of the steel trailer?

3. What is the wall construction material from outer cladding to interior finish? Is the outer shell fiberglass, I can't tell? Then I'm assuming maybe a wood frame, insulation and some type of interior wall panel material?

I guess I could just find out once I start tearing in to it, but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask first and at the same time introduce myself.

So to end my long post...Hello from someone new to the lifestyle. I live in Long Island, NY by the way if anyone is from around here also.
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Old 08-12-2016, 12:28 PM   #2
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Here are 2 photos. Like I said, it's a project but that's what I love to do
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Old 08-12-2016, 03:56 PM   #3
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hidee ho

Hello and welcome from northern Arizona! Looks like you have a fun project in store for you there! Sorry I can't answer any of your questions but as to the flooring material, sometimes you can see it and how they constructed the floor from within one of the outside storage bins if you have any. Good luck and have fun! Happy Camping!
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Old 08-12-2016, 04:27 PM   #4
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The sub floor should be some type of plywood. Regardless, you can use plywood to replace it. One issue you will run into, although it can be over come, is that generally the floor is put down before the walls and the walls set on top of the floor. You will have to figure out how you want to deal with that. You can cut out the old floor to the point of the wall, or you can dig out the old wall from under the walls and replace it in sections. I have done the digging out thing in a house before, but not a camper. It was time consuming, but doable.

The walls look to be laminated, so they should be sandwiched fiberglass. Someone else can tell you a little more about the construction of the walls.
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Old 08-13-2016, 02:39 PM   #5
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Welcome from Ontario, Canada!
That's quite a project you've taken on. To answer some of your questions you could try phoning Forest River. If you get the right person they may
be able to help you a lot. Another angle would be to go on Craigslist and see if some one in your area has a similar trailer for sale. Then go see it.
You may be able to get a look at the manuals for the trailer. All the appliance manuals which you say work can be gotten online or through this forum.
If that doesn't work just take the insides apart carefully. Around the
wheel wells and behind the stove & fridge will give you a good idea how
it was built. Would give you a chance to add things like heated holding tanks and maybe more cupboards.
Good luck & if you have further questions please feel free to express
them on the forum.
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Old 08-13-2016, 02:57 PM   #6
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Best way to determine the makeup of the floor and walls is to find an area where a hole was cut to add an appliance ( fridge, furnace etc) and check there. Same with the floor, look where a water or drain line goes through the floor you should be able to see the layers.
Post progress with photos.
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Old 08-13-2016, 03:14 PM   #7
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Congrats on the "new" trailer. We love our 23lb. Good luck with the remodel. Love to seenwhat it looks like when your done. Good luck.


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Old 08-14-2016, 09:04 AM   #8
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Rebuild TT

You can find your under floor wooden supports with a stud finder. I have done this to locate material to anchor cargo and discovered that there were no front to back, braces next to the wheel wells. I marked the location with masking tape that was left there throughout the job.
Your sides may not have wood studs since it is fiberglass walls and not aluminum siding.
Do not remove flooring from under the walls! That can only loosen the entire structure reduce its ability to stay together. In order to keep strength in the frame I would not demo anything that is not rotten and even if it is rotten you might be better off to go over that with new 3/8 or 7/16 plywood. First apply bleach to any rotted areas to kill mold. Using thinner plywood will reduce weight and be plenty strong when fastened with screws and glue if serious strength is desired.
The floor in my toyhauler is 3/4 inch but as you know, homes have 1/2 inch flooring quite often and that is plenty for an RV especially if you are going over another floor.
Bottom line.
Demo as little as possible, go over damage with plywood and glue attached with screws. That will get you enjoying it faster. Any other approach might result in frustration and or failure.
Be sure to use caution where wires might be present. Do work with drop cord and don't power up the TT while working inside. Also turn off LP tanks and check lines for leaks when finished. A lot can go wrong if not careful.
Good Luck
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:17 AM   #9
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Thanks everyone for all of the advice.

On further examination/thought, I will probably do what Steveboa suggested and go over the existing floor with new plywood. Only reasons I thought to maybe pull it up was every pound of weight matters and every 1/2" of head room matters. But after I cleaned out the TT this weekend and sat inside for a while getting a master plan in my head, both those issues are minuscule with the floor.

I may or may not just go over the walls with new paneling or tear them to the studs. But whatever I do I am probably going to gut out the remainder of the cabinets and build new. Reason being is that while the refrigerator, oven, sink cabinets and the overheads above the bed are in decent condition still, the rest (overhead by kitchen, overheads by table, and wardrobe in the rear between bunk beds and bathroom) are in not great shape and need to be replaced. I want to try and stay away from having a mismatch of cabinets (finishes and styles).

Here are a couple of pictures after I went in with a few contractor trash bags.
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:34 AM   #10
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Don't forget to include as much room for clothes closets as possible. There's never enough even in the biggest trailers. Also install your master panel for lights, tank levels etc right beside the door where you come in. It's amazing where trailer designers place light switches. They obviously don't have to live in the trailer.
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Old 08-15-2016, 01:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian Walker View Post
Don't forget to include as much room for clothes closets as possible. There's never enough even in the biggest trailers. Also install your master panel for lights, tank levels etc right beside the door where you come in. It's amazing where trailer designers place light switches. They obviously don't have to live in the trailer.
Funny you mention the closet space. When we were going through the layout, my wife thought the closet/wardrobe in the back wouldn't be necessary to replace....until I reminded her about clothes storage LOL. My plan is to build back the hanging wardrobe/dresser in the rear and most likely add more dresser type units in the lower bunk bed/storage area.

And a big hell yes on the panel and switches! This is definitely one of the major advantages to this project. Lighting, panels, switches and all other electrical will be exactly where and how I want it
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Old 08-15-2016, 02:17 PM   #12
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Another thing. If there's some cabinetry you want to keep but it doesn't match what you purchase. Take a piece of the new cabinetry to Home Depot and get them to do a "paint match". DON'T try to match the stain. It's nearly impossible. You'll spend 2 hours TRYING to get a "similar" color and when you get home you won't be happy. The problem is the wood may not be the same as the original and so the stain won't be the right color.
Take your "paint match" & just paint the old cabinetry. Don't use a brush (leaves brush marks).
Use a foam brush. Depending how much you're changing the color you may need 2 coats.
I added a cabinet door in my bathroom. A friend who knows cabinetry told me this trick. The wood in the new cabinet was different from the existing cabinets. But after painting you would swear the new cabinet came with the trailer. It's not perfect but it's close.
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