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Old 10-23-2018, 09:12 PM   #1
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Plumbing problem

I apologize if this has been covered, but I'm camping and don't have time or connection resources to do a good search on the forums.


I bought a slightly used 2018 Mini Lite 2104s and took it out on a two-night test run. I did not fill the fresh water tank since I knew I would have full hookups. I connected the campground water to the "City Water" hookup with a proper pressure reducer inline on the hose. Water pump turned off. All was well until about the second day I noticed water running under the trailer. It was coming out of the fresh water tank filling port and the panel said the fresh water tank was now full (obviously). When I cut off the campground water, the water stopped running out. I disconnected the city water hose and tested the water pump and it worked fine. The only thing I could figure was that city water was running backwards through the water pump into the fresh water tank. I called the dealer and talked with the service dept. and that was the only thing they could think of, also. The pump is a Shurflow 4008 and according to the manual, has a non-serviceable check valve in it.


So. Does anyone have any other ideas other than replacing the water pump assuming that is the problem? For what it's worth, the valve that changes from tank feed to winterizing antifreeze feed is in the proper position and didn't matter when I changed it. Also, the hot water heater is not in the "bypass" configuration.


Any suggestions appreciated.
Al
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Old 10-23-2018, 09:22 PM   #2
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Plumbing problem

Donít know your specific model but this is a common issue across a bunch of different rvís and ttís, on these forums and seems like I usually see it was caused by a faulty back flow device. Hope you can get it sorted out easily
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Old 10-23-2018, 09:25 PM   #3
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Check valve on the water pump is not seated properly. Try these steps:

Disconnect from city water; turn on water pump; open and close faucets repeatedly for a couple of minutes allowing the pump to cycle on and off. Try reconnect to city water and see if the valve has reseated itself. If not, simply use the water out of the fresh water tank and install a second check valve after you get back.

Enjoy your camping trip
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Old 10-23-2018, 09:30 PM   #4
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Should have said above.... never turn on the water pump while connected to city water.
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Old 10-23-2018, 09:43 PM   #5
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Stuck check valve
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:01 PM   #6
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Yup, try as advised by HangDiver, if it doesn't start to work properly buy and install an inline check-valve.

https://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-340-0...70_&dpSrc=srch


$16us

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Old 10-23-2018, 10:01 PM   #7
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Thanks for the replies. No, I didn't have the water pump on while connected to city water.



Not sure I know how to add a second check valve to the system. Sounds like it would be cheaper and more effective than buying a new water pump. Do I have to cut the pex plumbing to install it? If so, that's probably above my pay grade.


Al
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Old 10-23-2018, 11:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awagnon View Post
Thanks for the replies. No, I didn't have the water pump on while connected to city water.


Not sure I know how to add a second check valve to the system. Sounds like it would be cheaper and more effective than buying a new water pump. Do I have to cut the pex plumbing to install it? If so, that's probably above my pay grade.


Al

Hi,

As this check-valve has barbed fittings, one of the easiest ways to install this would be cut the PEX, slide a stainless gear clamp onto each end then warm the PEX with a hair drier until softened slightly then press the check-valve into the PEX. Slide the clamp onto the pipe ends and tighten them down.


Notes
Be careful as the pipe will be hot.
Be sure you have the check-valve correctly orientated.


As head of maintenance at a remote resort we've done similar repairs temporally or permanently over the years with PEX.

Or you can go all out and have a plumber add connections to the check-valve which will thread onto the existing fittings (it may then be cheaper to buy a new pump).

Geoff
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Old 10-25-2018, 09:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wabakami View Post
As this check-valve has barbed fittings, one of the easiest ways to install this would be cut the PEX, slide a stainless gear clamp onto each end then warm the PEX with a hair drier until softened slightly then press the check-valve into the PEX. Slide the clamp onto the pipe ends and tighten them down.

After I got home and had access to the internet, I found this was not an uncommon problem with back-flow through the water pump. I pulled the pump out and disassembled the check valve. It looked fine and clean. However, I replaced the two O-rings in it and put it back together. I winterized the trailer and put it away for the winter. The pump worked fine, but it will be spring before I can test the check valve.


So, I've decided to go ahead and add the inline check valve as a precaution. I did notice the hoses to the pump are not PEX, but the clear, braided soft plastic hose. Unfortunately I forgot to notice if the hoses to and from the water pump were 3/8 or 1/2 inch ID. Anyone know off hand before I order the check valve. Also, I assume it's better to install the check valve on the output side of the pump?


Thanks again,
Al
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Old 10-25-2018, 10:07 PM   #10
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Hi Al,

I was wondering about your actual hose connections, the soft braided pipe is much easier to work with than PEX. Sorry I cannot help you on diameter though. Our Rockwood has PEX on both inlet and outlet.

You are incorrect about the placement of the check-valve, the correct place would be before the pump (intake side) as the check-valve prevents the head pressure from bleeding off and causing the pump to cycle, making the pump think you are running water.

This is a pressurized demand system and the pressure switch is usually mounted on the pump monitoring the outlet (discharge) pressure.


Geoff
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