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Old 03-10-2016, 02:35 PM   #11
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I'm not sure if its NEC or just a rule of thumb, but I know they put up to 7 duplex receptacles on a 15 amp circuit and 10 or 11 on a 20 amp.
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Old 03-10-2016, 02:36 PM   #12
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Thanks, I DID fix the Suburban Furnace and it was a temporary measure, as I described. The propane furnace is working fine now.

But, that is beside the point. The point is that the wiring in the main breaker panel is a Royal mess, and I found two wires under one screw of a 15 amp circuit breaker that serves all the duplex outlets in a 37 foot bunkhouse travel trailer about the size of most Park models.

I am sure you dont think it's OK to solder jumper wires to add circuits to a 15 amp breaker right?
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Old 03-10-2016, 02:40 PM   #13
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To make sure you are SEEING what I found, in two of the pics there are two black #14 THHN wires under one screw and a large orange wire nut with black electrical tape. The two black wires landed under the single screw head of a dual 15 amp Square D circuit breaker. The wire ends under that screw head are SOLDERED together (not twisted). One of the wires is a jumper wire and goes to the orange wire nut. The 2nd outlet circuit which feeds the dining room/slide-out side of our Wildwood, is attached via that orange wire nut wrapped in black electrical tape.

Nothing about that meets any electrical code. Houston, we had a problem.

Of course, it is now fixed by adding a new 15 amp breaker and cutting the soldered connection I found. That is not the issue. The issue is WHAT THE BLEEP is it doing there in the first place?

For those who understand the significance, I suggest you check your own breaker panel. It is worth the 3 minutes it takes to do this.
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Old 03-10-2016, 02:43 PM   #14
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My 2008 has all the outlets on one breaker. Plus when they wired the brakes the ran the wires to the drivers side then jumped to the other side. Drivers side got way more power and caused the brakes to wear faster. Dealer found the problem when I took the trailer in for a bearing that failed. The dealer installed a new wiring harness to allow all the brakes to receive the same amount of power.
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Old 03-10-2016, 02:44 PM   #15
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Might not have had the skill set to do it but could have had the "neighborhood handyman" do the job for whatever the reason. I pride myself in knowing a little about everything, but I am not ashamed to call in a professional when I am not sure on a project. Just saying..................

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Old 03-10-2016, 02:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walk_the_walk View Post
@

#1: the 8955 is a 55 AMP converter circuit breaker panel. And, even at full throttle, the small space heaters would draw 12-12.5 amps each. This is why when ALL of my outlets are ganged up on a single breaker, the breaker got so hot you could not touch it, and then TRIPPED. It tripped at 15 amp, so the heaters probably did not get to full heat before that happened.


BREAKER PANEL SPECS ONLINE:

WF-8955 | wfcoelectronics.com

The 55 amp is the rating of the DC side of the converter. The 8955 is spec'd for a 30 amp main breaker on the AC side.

"The 8900 Series models provide AC and DC distribution with innovative features. They can accommodate a 30 Amp main AC circuit breaker"

I'm just going from a few years of experience trying to run 2 electric heaters in 30 amp trailers. I can also tell you that one or two breakers for all the AC in the trailer is very much common in the ones we owned.

None of the ones we have ever owned were pretty when it came to the wiring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by caper View Post
My 2008 has all the outlets on one breaker. Plus when they wired the brakes the ran the wires to the drivers side then jumped to the other side. Drivers side got way more power and caused the brakes to wear faster. Dealer found the problem when I took the trailer in for a bearing that failed. The dealer installed a new wiring harness to allow all the brakes to receive the same amount of power.
I have seen them run a smaller gauge wire through the axle tube to the opposite side. It does make the one side of the brakes wear out faster. I believe Dexter specs a 10 gauge minimum and it seldom is followed.
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:56 PM   #17
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Given all of the short cuts and crimp connectors and crappy whatnot used in my camper- I have the hardest time believing that someone on the factory line would actually take time to solder something.
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:07 PM   #18
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I added a dedicated 20 amp circuit from pedestal for that very purpose.....now can run 2 heaters
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Old 03-11-2016, 06:14 PM   #19
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I have always been able to run 2, 1500 watt heaters off my 30 amp supply at full heat. One comes off the plugs either in living room or bedroom. The other off the gfi circuit in bathroom or kitchen. When doing that one has to be shut off using microwave or wife's hair dryer. I find it unbelievable that an assembly line could do the mods you post. Think previous owner or dealer. No circuit breaker should get too hot to touch the switch.
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:05 PM   #20
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Circuit breakers are designed to protect wires in case of a short. For continuous use, breakers should be loaded to a maximum of 80% of their rating. A 15A breaker is suitable for a 12A continuous load, or 1440W at 120V.

My 2011 Georgetown 327DS with 50A service is wired with almost all of the 120V outlets on a single 15A breaker. The bathroom and two outlets in the kitchen are on a separate breaker and are protected by the GFCI located in the bathroom. The outlet that services the microwave, buried in the back of a cabinet, is on its own breaker.

Using electric heaters, even with 50A service is a careful balancing act. When I need to use two of them, One gets plugged into the GFCI circuit while the other goes into a non-GFCI outlet. I've also checked to make sure the two circuits are on opposite sides of the power feed into the RV. (50A service = 2 separate 120V 50A circuits, with 220-240V across the two hot wires.)

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