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Old 10-04-2010, 07:02 PM   #31
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On problem! I was dealing with isolated ground & neutral about ten year in NM before NEC put in place. Now I can't think of any new use where the neutral used as ground beside a main services. The old day you had 220v with neutral, now it 240v with ground, IF you have neutral it the 120v/240. Your new rang , dryer, & trailer cord are 4-prongs . That is why I hate to hear someone post that they are changing a hot tub or a old rang to work as a 50amp 120/240 service. There go the ground, It can kill them. That is why I posted Confused ?
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:30 PM   #32
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I think I will stick with my 30 Amp camper. My poor brain is fried.
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:03 PM   #33
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If WE just get people thinking About Rv services when it come to the 120-240volt 50 amp. maybe it will keep somebody from smoking his rig, by not knowing or shortcuts. I'm a happy camper
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Old 10-05-2010, 05:33 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camprat View Post
If WE just get people thinking About Rv services when it come to the 120-240volt 50 amp. maybe it will keep somebody from smoking his rig, by not knowing or shortcuts. I'm a happy camper
i'm hearing abt arc preventers (or something tt sounds like tt. will trip in case of an arc)? we were at a park near glasier and they showed us a pig tail used to adapt i believe 30 amp to 50 it could have been the other way around but it plugged into a socket for the service at the trailer. the contacts in the socket were melted. the insulation looked ok. they were using it to demonstrate the perils of using adaptors. what i saw looked like poor contacts causing an arc that melted the contacts rather than something wired wrong (the problem develepoed later in the night farther making me believe not a wiring issue). the insulation on the pig tail showed no signs of overheating (weren't discolored, brittle or anything). it wasn't the rver's first time to use the adapter and it appeard to be comercially made.

if there really is an arc fault interupt out there, would it work by installing on the service between the pedistal and the rv? looks like something like that could have sensed the arc and shut down the circuit.
i see discussions abt autoformers here also. i'm under the impression that most everything in the trailer will take a 10% swing without damage.
an autoformer is nothing more than a single wound transformer that has multiple tabs above and below one of the input points. the other side remains at ground and that carries thru to the trailer. apparently they have circuitry within that switches between these taps to give a more uniform output. are they really a nescessary addition to the trailer? what is the worse voltage swing ur encontered?
surge suppresion, i can see the need for that a little more...large loads droping out will cause spikes (like water pressure build up if u have a large flow and shut it down velocity changes to pressure). lightning causes interesting problems...i've had a clock knocked out at home and nothing else touched. i'm trying to figure where u would encounter spikes at a campground unless one is simply plugging in ur rv or the a/c (urs and everyone elses cutting in and out).
i haven't priced anything but can't see a surge supressor costing that much. an autotransformer, looks like it would be expensive because of the size of the windings needed to carry the load. i'd need to see a schematic (or maybe just a wiring diagram) to see how they can take 110 or 220 input and give the desired output. it is easier for me to see using 2 autoformers.
looks like a 50 amp one would be heavy and run warm.
looks like the electronics tied to the output of the converter would have a layer of protection already from the battery (like a large capacitor).
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